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FZ30 PR, preview, and samples



 
 
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  #31  
Old July 26th 05, 01:45 AM
Michael Meissner
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"P-P. Henneken" writes:

"King Sardon" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Jul 2005 13:20:59 +0200, "P-P. Henneken"
wrote:
Only if the subject is not moving very fast. IS is a big advantage but
a limited one. You get to leave the tripod at home but it won't help
with moving subjects.

KS


Obviously! But the first affordable image stabilized point and shoot
superzoom with f1.4 through the whole zoomrange I have yet to find! ;-)


I am just trying to imagine how big such a lens would be..... After all,
Panasonic seems to have given up the constant f/2.8 zoom in the FZ30. I
suspect it is because they increased the size of the sensor (so the 8MP would
have roughly the same pixel pitch and noise characteristics as the previous
5MP), and reused the Leica lens they had with the FZ20.

--
Michael Meissner
email:
http://www.the-meissners.org
  #32  
Old July 26th 05, 03:33 PM
Dave Sill
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Michael Meissner writes:

I am just trying to imagine how big such a lens would be..... After all,
Panasonic seems to have given up the constant f/2.8 zoom in the FZ30. I
suspect it is because they increased the size of the sensor (so the 8MP would
have roughly the same pixel pitch and noise characteristics as the previous
5MP), and reused the Leica lens they had with the FZ20.


According to http://www.dpreview.com/articles/panasonicfz30/ the FZ20
and FZ30 have different lenses:

FZ30 FZ20

35 - 420 mm equiv. 36 - 432 mm equiv.
12x optical zoom 12x optical zoom
F2.8 - F3.7 F2.8 (throughout range)
14 elements in 10 groups 13 elements in 8 groups
MEGA OIS Image Stabilization MEGA OIS Image Stabilization
Non-extending Extending type
Internal zoom & focus
55 mm lens thread

The different numbers of elements/groups and extending vs. non-extending
is pretty conclusive.

-Dave
  #33  
Old July 26th 05, 05:59 PM
Pete Fenelon
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Dave Sill wrote:
Michael Meissner writes:

I am just trying to imagine how big such a lens would be..... After all,
Panasonic seems to have given up the constant f/2.8 zoom in the FZ30. I
suspect it is because they increased the size of the sensor (so the 8MP would
have roughly the same pixel pitch and noise characteristics as the previous
5MP), and reused the Leica lens they had with the FZ20.


According to http://www.dpreview.com/articles/panasonicfz30/ the FZ20
and FZ30 have different lenses:

FZ30 FZ20

35 - 420 mm equiv. 36 - 432 mm equiv.


If you peer at the pics of the FZ30 it's also 7.4-88.8mm rather than
6-72 on the 10 and 20. A very different piece of glass.

pete
--
"There's no room for enigmas in built-up areas"
  #34  
Old July 28th 05, 10:18 PM
Charlie Right
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In article , Dave Sill
wrote:

The different numbers of elements/groups and extending vs. non-extending
is pretty conclusive.


You got it. The non-extending aspect also speeds the startup time. One
of the major reasons I'm lusting after the FZ30. When you see a good
shot coming up, the delay until the camera has readied itself can drive
you NUTS!!

--

Chas Right
  #35  
Old August 2nd 05, 01:54 PM
Michael Meissner
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Dave Sill writes:

Michael Meissner writes:

I am just trying to imagine how big such a lens would be..... After all,
Panasonic seems to have given up the constant f/2.8 zoom in the FZ30. I
suspect it is because they increased the size of the sensor (so the 8MP would
have roughly the same pixel pitch and noise characteristics as the previous
5MP), and reused the Leica lens they had with the FZ20.


According to http://www.dpreview.com/articles/panasonicfz30/ the FZ20
and FZ30 have different lenses:

FZ30 FZ20

35 - 420 mm equiv. 36 - 432 mm equiv.
12x optical zoom 12x optical zoom
F2.8 - F3.7 F2.8 (throughout range)
14 elements in 10 groups 13 elements in 8 groups
MEGA OIS Image Stabilization MEGA OIS Image Stabilization
Non-extending Extending type
Internal zoom & focus
55 mm lens thread

The different numbers of elements/groups and extending vs. non-extending
is pretty conclusive.


Ok, I thought I had read in the panasonic group at dpreview, that they had
reused the lens.

--
Michael Meissner
email:
http://www.the-meissners.org
  #36  
Old August 3rd 05, 04:12 AM
Don Wiss
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On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 14:09:39 GMT, "David J Taylor"
wrote:

Dave Sill wrote:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0507/05...sonic_fz30.asp
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/panasonicfz30/


Thanks for posting that, Dave. With the manual zoom and manual focus
controls, VGA movies, and swivel viewfinder it looks like a true
photographer's camera!


Except for the plain hot shoe. No "TTL." You have to set things. No
spontaneity. So one would have to keep their Nikon with external flash for
those outdoor flash pictures, like Halloween parades.

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).
  #37  
Old August 3rd 05, 05:07 AM
Michael Meissner
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Don Wiss writes:

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 14:09:39 GMT, "David J Taylor"
wrote:

Dave Sill wrote:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0507/05...sonic_fz30.asp
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/panasonicfz30/


Thanks for posting that, Dave. With the manual zoom and manual focus
controls, VGA movies, and swivel viewfinder it looks like a true
photographer's camera!


Except for the plain hot shoe. No "TTL." You have to set things. No
spontaneity. So one would have to keep their Nikon with external flash for
those outdoor flash pictures, like Halloween parades.


While admitily my pictures became more spot on when I switched from auto flash
to TTL, it isn't that hard to shoot with a generic auto flash once you get the
hang of it. On my Olympus C-2100UZ, it was a matter of connect the flash, turn
it on, and go into manual mode since the camera would remember the f/stop and
shutter speed previously used, and if you only use manual mode for flash, the
settings are the same as the last time. Of all of the steps, the one that took
the longest was turning on the flash, and letting it cycle up.

--
Michael Meissner
email:
http://www.the-meissners.org
  #38  
Old August 3rd 05, 12:41 PM
Don Wiss
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On 03 Aug 2005, Michael Meissner wrote:

While admitily my pictures became more spot on when I switched from auto flash
to TTL, it isn't that hard to shoot with a generic auto flash once you get the
hang of it. On my Olympus C-2100UZ, it was a matter of connect the flash, turn
it on, and go into manual mode since the camera would remember the f/stop and
shutter speed previously used, and if you only use manual mode for flash, the
settings are the same as the last time. Of all of the steps, the one that took
the longest was turning on the flash, and letting it cycle up.


The only external flash I've used is "TTL." Just has does auto work? You
leave the camera set at one f-stop, tell the flash that, and then the flash
shuts itself off? At my Halloween parades people are all distances from me.
Barely enough time for the camera to auto-focus.

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).
  #39  
Old August 3rd 05, 04:52 PM
Michael Meissner
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Don Wiss writes:

On 03 Aug 2005, Michael Meissner wrote:

While admitily my pictures became more spot on when I switched from auto
flash to TTL, it isn't that hard to shoot with a generic auto flash once you
get the hang of it. On my Olympus C-2100UZ, it was a matter of connect the
flash, turn it on, and go into manual mode since the camera would remember
the f/stop and shutter speed previously used, and if you only use manual
mode for flash, the settings are the same as the last time. Of all of the
steps, the one that took the longest was turning on the flash, and letting
it cycle up.


The only external flash I've used is "TTL." Just has does auto work? You
leave the camera set at one f-stop, tell the flash that, and then the flash
shuts itself off? At my Halloween parades people are all distances from me.
Barely enough time for the camera to auto-focus.


Yep. On an auto flash, the flash has a sensor that shuts off the light when it
thinks the exposure level is at a certain level. On many flashes, there is a
knob or dial that you set a given ISO value (usually 100). Then there is a
color coded setting that says for green, use f/2, yellow use f/4, and for red
use f/5.6 for instance. Different f/stops will give you different ranges (and
will give you different depth of field, particularly on DSLRs). You set your
camera to manual mode, setting that f/stop, and set the shutter speed either
fast (such as 1/125 or 1/250) if you want most of the light to come from the
flash (backgrounds that are far away will be dark due to light falloff), or you
set it slower if you want more ambient light for the background (may have color
differences between the flash and the background lighting). As you use it, you
start getting a better handle of when you will need to adjust the f/stop
up/down for different lighting situations.

One area that you typically have to think about is zooming into take a picture
of a person who isn't near a wall -- the flash won't receive enough light to
know when to shut off the flash, and may wind up overexposing the subject if
you fill the frame with the subject. This is an area TTL flash wins at without
doing a manual adjustment.

Many flashes also have a zoom setting that you can narrow down the angle of
light (mine does, but I'm constantly forgetting to use it, except when I'm
shooting at extreme ranges).

A manual flash by way of comparison just dumps a fixed amount of light (for
example, studio strobes do this), and you either use the rule about dividing
the guide number by the distance to the subject to set the f/stop, you use a
flash meter to measure the difference, or you just try different f/stops and
chimp the results looking at the histogram to see what is the best exposure.
In the old days, the wedding photographers would just get good at knowing how
far a subject was by sight, and knowing what f/stop to use manually.

--
Michael Meissner
email:
http://www.the-meissners.org
  #40  
Old August 3rd 05, 06:11 PM
Don Wiss
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On 03 Aug 2005, Michael Meissner wrote:

One area that you typically have to think about is zooming into take a picture
of a person who isn't near a wall -- the flash won't receive enough light to
know when to shut off the flash, and may wind up overexposing the subject if
you fill the frame with the subject. This is an area TTL flash wins at without
doing a manual adjustment.


Which would be a problem in my Halloween parade pictures. Basically what
this means is that if I were to buy an FZ30 I'd have to keep my Nikon 8400
with SB-800 to use for when I know I'd be taking flash pictures. This isn't
a major problem.

I have an 8400 as I like the wide angle. I don't like its lack of IS. I did
see in the specs for the FZ30 a wide angle adapter listed. I'd like to find
out more about it. But I can wait until after it becomes available.

Thanks for the explanation.

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).
 




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