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#1
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A few little ditties...Pyro Staining and how the hell did I develop a roll of film in dim light without it fogging (or just plain being destroyed)
Greetings. Long time.
I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right? Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around. Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala, for example- but color too!) ok #2: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? Cheers, -sd http://www.zoom.sh |
#2
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"Some Dude" wrote in message ... Greetings. Long time. I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right? Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around. Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala, for example- but color too!) Black and white/silver images could be bleached and stained--some intesifiers use this type of technology. Color is trickier since all you have left after processing is a dye image. ok #2: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? Cheers, -sd http://www.zoom.sh Well, if you work fairly fast you're probably OK. Ambient light is non-directional and exposure at low levels is cumulative, and will first be evident as a slight overall fog. Have a nice sit in the darkroom before you load your next roll, last time I looked every bath has a nice "chair" provided and stop up the light leaks when they appear. I use rolled towels when I had to do it. You can also make temp covers for windows, fans and such. darkroommike |
#3
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In article ,
Some Dude wrote: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? About two years ago I wrote a book review for PhotoVision Magazine about a chinese photographer that processed film in a bucket in a windowless hut by the light of a red paper lantern. (Anything is possible). If you compared a clear unexposed roll processed at the same time that would be an accurate way to evaluate wehther your roll was somewhat fogged. Unless the light was very strong and as Mike stated directional it will take a fair amount of abuse. My entry level B&W course took place in a trailer on campus the darroom where we off loaded our 35mm cassettes into tanks had a rather large hole in the ceiling tiles that produced the same sort of result you describe those negatives are still quite printable even relative to my more advanced and better work. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#4
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In article ,
Some Dude wrote: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? About two years ago I wrote a book review for PhotoVision Magazine about a chinese photographer that processed film in a bucket in a windowless hut by the light of a red paper lantern. (Anything is possible). If you compared a clear unexposed roll processed at the same time that would be an accurate way to evaluate wehther your roll was somewhat fogged. Unless the light was very strong and as Mike stated directional it will take a fair amount of abuse. My entry level B&W course took place in a trailer on campus the darroom where we off loaded our 35mm cassettes into tanks had a rather large hole in the ceiling tiles that produced the same sort of result you describe those negatives are still quite printable even relative to my more advanced and better work. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#5
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Some Dude wrote: Greetings. Long time. I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right? Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around. Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala, for example- but color too!) ok #2: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? Film is far less sensitive to light than your eyes. Likely it just caused a bit of fog you printed through. In very dim light that eyes may adjust to and perceive, a relatively slow film (100 ISO or less) would likely require a longer exposure than the time it takes to reel load it to cause serious issues. Cheers, -sd http://www.zoom.sh |
#6
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Gregory W Blank wrote: In article , Some Dude wrote: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? About two years ago I wrote a book review for PhotoVision Magazine about a chinese photographer that processed film in a bucket in a windowless hut by the light of a red paper lantern. (Anything is possible). If you compared a clear unexposed roll processed at the same time that would be an accurate way to evaluate wehther your roll was somewhat fogged. Unless the light was very strong and as Mike stated directional it will take a fair amount of abuse. My entry level B&W course took place in a trailer on campus the darroom where we off loaded our 35mm cassettes into tanks had a rather large hole in the ceiling tiles that produced the same sort of result you describe those negatives are still quite printable even relative to my more advanced and better work. Boy, some school administrater must have been cheaper than Jack Benny... Even most community colleges and high schools I was familair with had real darkrooms. Course a trailer still beats a dark tent collodian folks used. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#7
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In article ,
Tom Phillips wrote: Boy, some school administrater must have been cheaper than Jack Benny... Even most community colleges and high schools I was familair with had real darkrooms. Course a trailer still beats a dark tent collodian folks used. Nah and didn't mean to imply that: The photo program was very popular at my Community college. The program was excellent and one of the best in the area, probably still is (Knowing the who is in charge :-) The Primary darkroom located in a real brick and stone building had/has about twenty enlargers a 16x 20 color processor and a communal island for B&W work. There was also a private darkroom that had two color 4x5 enlargers. They had two paper driers, and a photo studio outfitted with a 2400 ws Speedo system and studio stand for the camera , 4x5 cameras for student use. It was an awesome program at th community college level. Part of why I have done so well so far is the very high caliber of the local professional photographers that instructed thier. All are still currently working in photography or graphics at this point. -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#8
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Gregory W Blank wrote: In article , Tom Phillips wrote: Boy, some school administrater must have been cheaper than Jack Benny... Even most community colleges and high schools I was familair with had real darkrooms. Course a trailer still beats a dark tent collodian folks used. Nah and didn't mean to imply that: Still, they could have fixed the ceiling tiles ; The photo program was very popular at my Community college. The program was excellent and one of the best in the area, probably still is (Knowing the who is in charge :-) The Primary darkroom located in a real brick and stone building had/has about twenty enlargers a 16x 20 color processor and a communal island for B&W work. There was also a private darkroom that had two color 4x5 enlargers. They had two paper driers, and a photo studio outfitted with a 2400 ws Speedo system and studio stand for the camera , 4x5 cameras for student use. It was an awesome program at th community college level. Part of why I have done so well so far is the very high caliber of the local professional photographers that instructed thier. All are still currently working in photography or graphics at this point. I had a prof (deceased now) who used to camp out in Bret Weston's living room... -- LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918 |
#9
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Some Dude wrote:
Greetings. Long time. I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right? Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around. I have used pyrogallol, catechol and hydroquinone (separately, not together) as an intensifier for negatives. Bleach the neg in a rehalogenating bleach ( a solution of ferricyanide and bromide like you would use for sepia toning). Wash it and redevolope in room light in staining developer. The simplest will be a teaspoon of hydroquinone and a teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a pint of water. Use it right away and develop till it won't develop any more. wash the negative. No need to fix it. Substitute catechol or pyrogallol for the hydroquinone for some different colors. If you are thinking about color transprencies, try Easter egg dyes. Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala, for example- but color too!) ok #2: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? Cheers, -sd http://www.zoom.sh |
#10
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Some Dude wrote:
Greetings. Long time. I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right? Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around. I have used pyrogallol, catechol and hydroquinone (separately, not together) as an intensifier for negatives. Bleach the neg in a rehalogenating bleach ( a solution of ferricyanide and bromide like you would use for sepia toning). Wash it and redevolope in room light in staining developer. The simplest will be a teaspoon of hydroquinone and a teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a pint of water. Use it right away and develop till it won't develop any more. wash the negative. No need to fix it. Substitute catechol or pyrogallol for the hydroquinone for some different colors. If you are thinking about color transprencies, try Easter egg dyes. Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala, for example- but color too!) ok #2: I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really, really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel (AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25 5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've developed with this simple formula. I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film? Cheers, -sd http://www.zoom.sh |
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