A few little ditties...Pyro Staining and how the hell did I develop a roll of film in dim light without it fogging (or just plain being destroyed)

In article , PATRICK GAINER
wrote:

Some Dude wrote:

Greetings. Long time.

I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old
negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in
regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix
it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right?
Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking
maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test
this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around.



I have used pyrogallol, catechol and hydroquinone (separately, not
together) as an intensifier for negatives. Bleach the neg in a
rehalogenating bleach ( a solution of ferricyanide and bromide like you
would use for sepia toning). Wash it and redevolope in room light in
staining developer. The simplest will be a teaspoon of hydroquinone and
a teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a pint of water. Use it right away and
develop till it won't develop any more. wash the negative. No need to
fix it. Substitute catechol or pyrogallol for the hydroquinone for some
different colors.

If you are thinking about color transprencies, try Easter egg dyes.

Hey don't rush the season,....its not christmas yet :-)
--
LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

In article , PATRICK GAINER
wrote:

Some Dude wrote:

Greetings. Long time.

I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old
negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in
regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix
it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right?
Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking
maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test
this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around.



I have used pyrogallol, catechol and hydroquinone (separately, not
together) as an intensifier for negatives. Bleach the neg in a
rehalogenating bleach ( a solution of ferricyanide and bromide like you
would use for sepia toning). Wash it and redevolope in room light in
staining developer. The simplest will be a teaspoon of hydroquinone and
a teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a pint of water. Use it right away and
develop till it won't develop any more. wash the negative. No need to
fix it. Substitute catechol or pyrogallol for the hydroquinone for some
different colors.

If you are thinking about color transprencies, try Easter egg dyes.

Hey don't rush the season,....its not christmas yet :-)
--
LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

Patrick thats an awesome idea with the easter egg dyes.


awesome.

Thanks


On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 18:50:30 -0500, PATRICK GAINER
wrote:

Some Dude wrote:

Greetings. Long time.

I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old
negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in
regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix
it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right?
Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking
maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test
this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around.



I have used pyrogallol, catechol and hydroquinone (separately, not
together) as an intensifier for negatives. Bleach the neg in a
rehalogenating bleach ( a solution of ferricyanide and bromide like you
would use for sepia toning). Wash it and redevolope in room light in
staining developer. The simplest will be a teaspoon of hydroquinone and
a teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a pint of water. Use it right away and
develop till it won't develop any more. wash the negative. No need to
fix it. Substitute catechol or pyrogallol for the hydroquinone for some
different colors.

If you are thinking about color transprencies, try Easter egg dyes.

Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala,
for example- but color too!)

ok #2:

I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub
with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really,
really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel
(AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction
was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat
there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't
dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25
5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've
developed with this simple formula.

I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or
have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film?



Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh



Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Patrick thats an awesome idea with the easter egg dyes.


awesome.

Thanks


On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 18:50:30 -0500, PATRICK GAINER
wrote:

Some Dude wrote:

Greetings. Long time.

I've been pretty giddy about Pyro PMK lately and i'm looking at old
negatives and thinking I'd like to stain them like you'd post-stain in
regular development. Seems a feasible option as if it works post-fix
it should still work months/years/later pretty much the same right?
Photo form. says to stain for 2 mins with fresh negs so I'm thinking
maybe I should increase the stain to say..4 mins? I would just test
this theory but I don't have any bunk negatives laying around.



I have used pyrogallol, catechol and hydroquinone (separately, not
together) as an intensifier for negatives. Bleach the neg in a
rehalogenating bleach ( a solution of ferricyanide and bromide like you
would use for sepia toning). Wash it and redevolope in room light in
staining developer. The simplest will be a teaspoon of hydroquinone and
a teaspoon of sodium carbonate in a pint of water. Use it right away and
develop till it won't develop any more. wash the negative. No need to
fix it. Substitute catechol or pyrogallol for the hydroquinone for some
different colors.

If you are thinking about color transprencies, try Easter egg dyes.

Also has anyone ever stained transparencies with Pyro? (agfa scala,
for example- but color too!)

ok #2:

I moved out of my studio and am now doing the ol bathroom "in the tub
with the curtain closed" loading for a while and I was being really,
really sloppy as I was loading the roll I could start seeing the reel
(AND the film!) as I was loading it (apx 100)...My initial reaction
was f**k, but instead I accepted its potential fate and basically sat
there until my eyes adjusted and it was damn clear the room wasn't
dark. So I loaded the film into the tank and developed it rod 1:25
5.5m 20c and it came out awesome, on par with any other time i've
developed with this simple formula.

I'm really scratching my head on this. Do I have super good vision or
have I been under the wrong impression I need darkness to load film?



Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh



Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh