500CM - Q's

Strict newbie wrt the 500CM.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable release?

2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?

without a back attached?

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?

4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens dependant?

5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film is
loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the original
spool as the exposures take place?

(Notes: I've been reading the manual on line at
http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeec...0cm/500cm.html so I have
pretty good idea, just looking for clarifications)

When I pick up the camera I'll be asking for a demo on all this, but I want to
appear less than totally ignorant.

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').

Cheers,
Alan




--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Alan Browne wrote:

Strict newbie wrt the 500CM.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable
release?

Yes.
Not in the least because that means you're using it on top of a tripod. ;-)

2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?

Yes.
But you can't get the lens off without advancing the film (or better:
resetting the camera; you can take off the film back before doing so) first.

without a back attached?

Sure.

The really important bit to remember is that both lens and body need to be
in "cocked" state before you can attach or remove a lens to or from the
camera.
Never use force; if a lens won't go on or off easily, you probably haven't
cocked the thingies.

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?

It is important not to bend it. It will not seal properly when bent.
So don't put in a back trouser pocket and then sit down.

And you must take care not to cut yourself on it when digging it out from a
shirt pocket. ;-)

4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens
dependant?

Half stops.
It is not lens dependant in as far as all Hasselblad lenses have click stops
at half stop intervals.
It is lens dependeant in as far as Zeiss could have chosen to put in click
stops at any other interval. ;-)

Shutterspeeds are only whole stops.
There are no click stops between usable settings, though the ring of course
has to travel from on to the next click stop, so you can (accidentally)
leave it in between two click stops. There is no knowing what shutterspeed
the shutter will use when triggered then.

5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film
is
loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the
original
spool as the exposures take place?

No, no, no!

The beginning of the paper leader is attached to the take up spool, then the
insert is inserted in the shell, next the film is wound so far onto the take
up spool that the first bit of film is in the film gate, and after that the
film is wound onto the take up spool frame by frame, after each exposure,
until all of it is exposed.
Finally, after the last frame is exposed, you need to wind the remaining
protecting backing paper around the exposed film, on the take up spool.
No rewinding.
When you remove the insert again, the feed spool is empty, and all of the
film is on the take up spool. You take that spool out, seal the backing
paper, and remove the empty feed spool to replace the now gone take up
spool.

(Notes: I've been reading the manual on line at
http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeec...0cm/500cm.html so I
have
pretty good idea, just looking for clarifications)

When I pick up the camera I'll be asking for a demo on all this, but I
want to
appear less than totally ignorant.

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').

Yes.
The lens bit described above.

When you do acquire extension tubes, bellows, or tele converters (i.e.
anything that goes between camera and lens) you need to pay attention to the
order in which these items arre attached or removed. (For instance, never
remove an extension tube from the camera when there is still another tube or
lens attached to it.)

Apart from that, remember that whenever anything appears to need force
you're probably doing something wrong.

Alan Browne wrote:

Strict newbie wrt the 500CM.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable
release?

Yes.
Not in the least because that means you're using it on top of a tripod. ;-)

2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?

Yes.
But you can't get the lens off without advancing the film (or better:
resetting the camera; you can take off the film back before doing so) first.

without a back attached?

Sure.

The really important bit to remember is that both lens and body need to be
in "cocked" state before you can attach or remove a lens to or from the
camera.
Never use force; if a lens won't go on or off easily, you probably haven't
cocked the thingies.

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?

It is important not to bend it. It will not seal properly when bent.
So don't put in a back trouser pocket and then sit down.

And you must take care not to cut yourself on it when digging it out from a
shirt pocket. ;-)

4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens
dependant?

Half stops.
It is not lens dependant in as far as all Hasselblad lenses have click stops
at half stop intervals.
It is lens dependeant in as far as Zeiss could have chosen to put in click
stops at any other interval. ;-)

Shutterspeeds are only whole stops.
There are no click stops between usable settings, though the ring of course
has to travel from on to the next click stop, so you can (accidentally)
leave it in between two click stops. There is no knowing what shutterspeed
the shutter will use when triggered then.

5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film
is
loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the
original
spool as the exposures take place?

No, no, no!

The beginning of the paper leader is attached to the take up spool, then the
insert is inserted in the shell, next the film is wound so far onto the take
up spool that the first bit of film is in the film gate, and after that the
film is wound onto the take up spool frame by frame, after each exposure,
until all of it is exposed.
Finally, after the last frame is exposed, you need to wind the remaining
protecting backing paper around the exposed film, on the take up spool.
No rewinding.
When you remove the insert again, the feed spool is empty, and all of the
film is on the take up spool. You take that spool out, seal the backing
paper, and remove the empty feed spool to replace the now gone take up
spool.

(Notes: I've been reading the manual on line at
http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeec...0cm/500cm.html so I
have
pretty good idea, just looking for clarifications)

When I pick up the camera I'll be asking for a demo on all this, but I
want to
appear less than totally ignorant.

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').

Yes.
The lens bit described above.

When you do acquire extension tubes, bellows, or tele converters (i.e.
anything that goes between camera and lens) you need to pay attention to the
order in which these items arre attached or removed. (For instance, never
remove an extension tube from the camera when there is still another tube or
lens attached to it.)

Apart from that, remember that whenever anything appears to need force
you're probably doing something wrong.

Q.G. de Bakker wrote:

Alan Browne wrote:


Strict newbie wrt the 500CM.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable

release?

Yes.
Not in the least because that means you're using it on top of a tripod. ;-)


2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?


Yes.
But you can't get the lens off without advancing the film (or better:
resetting the camera; you can take off the film back before doing so) first.


without a back attached?


Sure.

Okay, that reduces the confusion.


The really important bit to remember is that both lens and body need to be
in "cocked" state before you can attach or remove a lens to or from the
camera.
Never use force; if a lens won't go on or off easily, you probably haven't
cocked the thingies.


3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?


It is important not to bend it. It will not seal properly when bent.
So don't put in a back trouser pocket and then sit down.

And you must take care not to cut yourself on it when digging it out from a
shirt pocket. ;-)

Sound likely in my case. I'll keep it in the sheets of a book.



4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens

dependant?

Half stops.
It is not lens dependant in as far as all Hasselblad lenses have click stops
at half stop intervals.
It is lens dependeant in as far as Zeiss could have chosen to put in click
stops at any other interval. ;-)

Shutterspeeds are only whole stops.
There are no click stops between usable settings, though the ring of course
has to travel from on to the next click stop, so you can (accidentally)
leave it in between two click stops. There is no knowing what shutterspeed
the shutter will use when triggered then.


5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film

is

loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the

original

spool as the exposures take place?


No, no, no!

The beginning of the paper leader is attached to the take up spool, then the
insert is inserted in the shell, next the film is wound so far onto the take
up spool that the first bit of film is in the film gate, and after that the
film is wound onto the take up spool frame by frame, after each exposure,
until all of it is exposed.
Finally, after the last frame is exposed, you need to wind the remaining
protecting backing paper around the exposed film, on the take up spool.
No rewinding.
When you remove the insert again, the feed spool is empty, and all of the
film is on the take up spool. You take that spool out, seal the backing
paper, and remove the empty feed spool to replace the now gone take up
spool.

Okay, that makes more sense. It's the "10 turns of the crank" in the manual
that got me going
( http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeec...m/500cm-19.jpg ).

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').


Yes.
The lens bit described above.

snip

Apart from that, remember that whenever anything appears to need force
you're probably doing something wrong.

Thanks for your clarifications, Q.G.; I'll confess my sins next week if the
weather is nice this weekend...

Cheers,
Alan




--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Alan Browne wrote:

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?


It is important not to bend it. It will not seal properly when bent.
So don't put in a back trouser pocket and then sit down.

And you must take care not to cut yourself on it when digging it out
from a
shirt pocket. ;-)

Sound likely in my case. I'll keep it in the sheets of a book.

So there you are, happening, by chance, upon a "photo opportunity" too good
to miss. A "fleating moment" it is, of course.
You're quick enough to grab your camera, raise it to your eyes (not the
right lens on it, but hey, rather use the wrong one than miss the photo),
and press the shutter and... nothing happens.
You forgot to take the dark slide out (always good to reinsert when carrying
the camera dangling from your shoulder; it's too easy to hit the release
button and take blurred pictures of the ground)!
Yes, i can see how you then would take the slide out and carefully insert in
between the pages of a book...

Believe me, it'll end up in your pockets (shirt or trouser) sooner or later.

;-);-)

Another thing.
You'll not only bend a dark slide sooner or later, but will misplace one
(always in a hurry), not to be found again.
So it will be a good idea to get a spare one and store that in your kit bag.

As long as you only have one magazine, not having a slide is not a big deal
(you can't take the back from the camera, but why would you need to?).
But when you start using two backs and want to switch from one to the other
in mid roll, you're stuck.

[...]

Okay, that makes more sense. It's the "10 turns of the crank" in the
manual
that got me going
( http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeec...m/500cm-19.jpg ).

Those are the turns that wind the film/backing paper far enough that the
first bit of film ends up in the gate.
Using "A"-type magazines, the wind mechanism will block, and the number "1"
will appear in the frame counter.

Make sure that you use the crank on the magazine (!) to wind the film until
frame 1 is ready to be exposed.
After this, you only use the magazine's crank again to wind the remaining
backing paper around the take up spool after the last frame 12 has been
exposed (after exposing frame 12, you use the canera's crank to wind the
film on a bit, and recock the camera and lens). The magazine's crank/wind
mechanism will block only (!) after reaching frame 1. After that (when by
using the camera's wind crank you have wound film on to frame 2) you can use
the magazine's crank again.
But unless you want to wind the film through completely (for instance to be
able to remove it and have it processed or load another type of film), you
should not touch this magazine crank at all. Advancing the film only a bit
using the magazine's crank will throw frame spacing off. Not good.

Always remember before taking the insert out after exposing the last frame
to use the magazine's crank to wind the film/backing paper completely onto
the take up spool.
It never hurts to wind too much, but you can fog the last frame(s) if you do
not.
There is no signal telling you when the backing paper has come off the feed
spool and is rolled around the take up spool completely. But you'll feel a
slight difference, and hear it happening. So you'll know.
But if in doubt, just give the magazine's crank a couple more turns.

Alan Browne wrote:

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?


It is important not to bend it. It will not seal properly when bent.
So don't put in a back trouser pocket and then sit down.

And you must take care not to cut yourself on it when digging it out
from a
shirt pocket. ;-)

Sound likely in my case. I'll keep it in the sheets of a book.

So there you are, happening, by chance, upon a "photo opportunity" too good
to miss. A "fleating moment" it is, of course.
You're quick enough to grab your camera, raise it to your eyes (not the
right lens on it, but hey, rather use the wrong one than miss the photo),
and press the shutter and... nothing happens.
You forgot to take the dark slide out (always good to reinsert when carrying
the camera dangling from your shoulder; it's too easy to hit the release
button and take blurred pictures of the ground)!
Yes, i can see how you then would take the slide out and carefully insert in
between the pages of a book...

Believe me, it'll end up in your pockets (shirt or trouser) sooner or later.

;-);-)

Another thing.
You'll not only bend a dark slide sooner or later, but will misplace one
(always in a hurry), not to be found again.
So it will be a good idea to get a spare one and store that in your kit bag.

As long as you only have one magazine, not having a slide is not a big deal
(you can't take the back from the camera, but why would you need to?).
But when you start using two backs and want to switch from one to the other
in mid roll, you're stuck.

[...]

Okay, that makes more sense. It's the "10 turns of the crank" in the
manual
that got me going
( http://rurmonas.cust.nearlyfreespeec...m/500cm-19.jpg ).

Those are the turns that wind the film/backing paper far enough that the
first bit of film ends up in the gate.
Using "A"-type magazines, the wind mechanism will block, and the number "1"
will appear in the frame counter.

Make sure that you use the crank on the magazine (!) to wind the film until
frame 1 is ready to be exposed.
After this, you only use the magazine's crank again to wind the remaining
backing paper around the take up spool after the last frame 12 has been
exposed (after exposing frame 12, you use the canera's crank to wind the
film on a bit, and recock the camera and lens). The magazine's crank/wind
mechanism will block only (!) after reaching frame 1. After that (when by
using the camera's wind crank you have wound film on to frame 2) you can use
the magazine's crank again.
But unless you want to wind the film through completely (for instance to be
able to remove it and have it processed or load another type of film), you
should not touch this magazine crank at all. Advancing the film only a bit
using the magazine's crank will throw frame spacing off. Not good.

Always remember before taking the insert out after exposing the last frame
to use the magazine's crank to wind the film/backing paper completely onto
the take up spool.
It never hurts to wind too much, but you can fog the last frame(s) if you do
not.
There is no signal telling you when the backing paper has come off the feed
spool and is rolled around the take up spool completely. But you'll feel a
slight difference, and hear it happening. So you'll know.
But if in doubt, just give the magazine's crank a couple more turns.

Q.G. de Bakker wrote:

[...]

P.S.

As always, please ignore my spelling, and other, errors.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable
release?

That would be the preferred technique.

2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?

Yup

without a back attached?

Yup

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?

I used to stick 'em in my back pocket. You can tell, but I never had
one break in 30+ years.

4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens
dependant?

Half stops

5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film is
loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the
original
spool as the exposures take place?

Nope...goes from one spool to the other.

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').

Keep a quarter handy in case an unmounted lens gets released.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable
release?

That would be the preferred technique.

2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?

Yup

without a back attached?

Yup

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?

I used to stick 'em in my back pocket. You can tell, but I never had
one break in 30+ years.

4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens
dependant?

Half stops

5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film is
loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the
original
spool as the exposures take place?

Nope...goes from one spool to the other.

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').

Keep a quarter handy in case an unmounted lens gets released.

Strict newbie wrt the 500CM.

1) I assume that it is best to use pre-release in conjunction with a cable
release?

It is up to you, but mirror-lockup (which is very much what pre-release is)
does help steadiness.

2) Can the film advance be operated without the lens attached?

Yes, but the lens cannot be cocked without it being on the back (unless you
want to hassle it with a screwdriver).
PAY STRICT ATTENTION TO THE WARNING regarding placing an uncocked lens on a
cocked body. Very bad thing to do.

without a back attached?

Yes.

3) Darkslide: is this thing delicate, is care needed when storing it?

Not so delicate at all. I just put it in my shirt pocket, although I've sat
on it a few times with no problems. NOW what is delicate is the light trap
that the slide goes into. Take care in inserting. AND note that you don't
have to remove the back every time you change film; in fact, it's a good
idea to get in the habit of not removing it. Leaving it on saves wear and
tear on the hook-hinges. Of course, if you use more than one back, the
virute of the extra back overrides the caution.

4) Apertures: are apertures in 1/2 stops or whole stops? (or is this lens
dependant?

You can do 1/2 F-stops, but with the shutter/F-stop coupled lenses are a
pain in the butt.

5) If I understand the film loading procedure correctly, the roll of film
is loaded onto the take up spool completely and then wound back onto the
original spool as the exposures take place?

That would be insane. Read the manual again. Loading is easy and direct.

Are there operator errors that can damage the camera? (I also have the
'unjamming procedure').

YES. Look at the manual regarding the I/O position of the shutter release,
and note that it is possible to release the shutter faster than the inner
shutter can respond.