5x7 neg paper on 1899 folding camera

Hi.

I use an old 1899 5x7 folding camera, and I like its grain and optic
odds. I learn with nature shots since a few weeks, and my sensible
surface is multigrade RC paper (so it's looong exposure times).
I'd like to know if any of you use any of this (a very old cam or paper
as sensible surface) to discuss about it.
Thanks.

--
comme traversée du vide http://tichoual.free.fr/

Hervé JOLLY wrote:

Hi.

I use an old 1899 5x7 folding camera, and I like its grain and optic
odds. I learn with nature shots since a few weeks, and my sensible
surface is multigrade RC paper (so it's looong exposure times).
I'd like to know if any of you use any of this (a very old cam or
paper as sensible surface) to discuss about it.
Thanks.


This sounds very interesting, and I would sure like to read some answers
from some of the "more experienced" who have subbed paper for negatives
in a view camera.


--
regards from ::

John Bartley
43 Norway Spruce Street
Stittsville, Ontario
Canada, K2S1P5

( If you slow down it takes longer
- does that apply to life also?)

Hervé JOLLY wrote:

Hi.

I use an old 1899 5x7 folding camera, and I like its grain and optic
odds. I learn with nature shots since a few weeks, and my sensible
surface is multigrade RC paper (so it's looong exposure times).
I'd like to know if any of you use any of this (a very old cam or
paper as sensible surface) to discuss about it.
Thanks.


This sounds very interesting, and I would sure like to read some answers
from some of the "more experienced" who have subbed paper for negatives
in a view camera.


--
regards from ::

John Bartley
43 Norway Spruce Street
Stittsville, Ontario
Canada, K2S1P5

( If you slow down it takes longer
- does that apply to life also?)

John Bartley wrote:
Herv=C3=A9 JOLLY wrote:
=20
Hi.

I use an old 1899 5x7 folding camera, and I like its grain and optic=20
odds. I learn with nature shots since a few weeks, and my sensible=20
surface is multigrade RC paper (so it's looong exposure times).
I'd like to know if any of you use any of this (a very old cam or=20
paper as sensible surface) to discuss about it.
Thanks.

=20
This sounds very interesting, and I would sure like to read some answer=
s=20
from some of the "more experienced" who have subbed paper for negatives=
=20
in a view camera.


I keep intending to do this with colour paper but keep forgetting-(. Us=
ing
paper for pin hole cameras is pretty common. Try it at most you waste a
couple sheets of paper-) Paper is slow figure a speed of between 3 and 6.
You can't enlarge the image so it may be better with a bigger camera.=20

Nick

John Bartley wrote:
Herv=C3=A9 JOLLY wrote:
=20
Hi.

I use an old 1899 5x7 folding camera, and I like its grain and optic=20
odds. I learn with nature shots since a few weeks, and my sensible=20
surface is multigrade RC paper (so it's looong exposure times).
I'd like to know if any of you use any of this (a very old cam or=20
paper as sensible surface) to discuss about it.
Thanks.

=20
This sounds very interesting, and I would sure like to read some answer=
s=20
from some of the "more experienced" who have subbed paper for negatives=
=20
in a view camera.


I keep intending to do this with colour paper but keep forgetting-(. Us=
ing
paper for pin hole cameras is pretty common. Try it at most you waste a
couple sheets of paper-) Paper is slow figure a speed of between 3 and 6.
You can't enlarge the image so it may be better with a bigger camera.=20

Nick

Nick Zentena wrote:
I keep intending to do this with colour paper but keep forgetting-(. Using
paper for pin hole cameras is pretty common. Try it at most you waste a
couple sheets of paper-) Paper is slow figure a speed of between 3 and 6.
You can't enlarge the image so it may be better with a bigger camera.

Nick

What I found (with little experience) is that :
- as you say it RC paper is in fact between 3 and 6 asa (someone told me
that "papier baryté" (I don't know how it spells in english) is maybe
twice like 10 or 12 - will have to check)
- it's very sensible to blue (and not at all to red and yellow/green) so
you have to filter (is yellow best ?) if you don't like your skies burned
- sometimes the negative doesn't need any positive contact : it works by
itself
- it works very well (in my humble opinion) when you scan it : it has
its own grain versus film scan, and you can achieve very high resolution
as with any LF - and I intend to mix further the two technologies (19th
century camera and 21th century scanner)


--
comme traversée du vide http://tichoual.free.fr/

Nick Zentena wrote:
I keep intending to do this with colour paper but keep forgetting-(. Using
paper for pin hole cameras is pretty common. Try it at most you waste a
couple sheets of paper-) Paper is slow figure a speed of between 3 and 6.
You can't enlarge the image so it may be better with a bigger camera.

Nick

What I found (with little experience) is that :
- as you say it RC paper is in fact between 3 and 6 asa (someone told me
that "papier baryté" (I don't know how it spells in english) is maybe
twice like 10 or 12 - will have to check)
- it's very sensible to blue (and not at all to red and yellow/green) so
you have to filter (is yellow best ?) if you don't like your skies burned
- sometimes the negative doesn't need any positive contact : it works by
itself
- it works very well (in my humble opinion) when you scan it : it has
its own grain versus film scan, and you can achieve very high resolution
as with any LF - and I intend to mix further the two technologies (19th
century camera and 21th century scanner)


--
comme traversée du vide http://tichoual.free.fr/

Herv=C3=A9 JOLLY wrote:

=20
What I found (with little experience) is that :
- as you say it RC paper is in fact between 3 and 6 asa (someone told m=
e=20
that "papier baryt=C3=A9" (I don't know how it spells in english) is ma=
ybe=20
twice like 10 or 12 - will have to check)

Paper speed to a certain extent changes with brand.

- it's very sensible to blue (and not at all to red and yellow/green) s=
o=20
you have to filter (is yellow best ?) if you don't like your skies burn=
ed



B&W paper is red blind. If you're using VC paper it should handle green=
..
Low contrast printing comes from using green light. If you use a yellow
filter I guess that would lower the contrast of the paper? Don't use a re=
d
filter-))

Nick

Herv=C3=A9 JOLLY wrote:

=20
What I found (with little experience) is that :
- as you say it RC paper is in fact between 3 and 6 asa (someone told m=
e=20
that "papier baryt=C3=A9" (I don't know how it spells in english) is ma=
ybe=20
twice like 10 or 12 - will have to check)

Paper speed to a certain extent changes with brand.

- it's very sensible to blue (and not at all to red and yellow/green) s=
o=20
you have to filter (is yellow best ?) if you don't like your skies burn=
ed



B&W paper is red blind. If you're using VC paper it should handle green=
..
Low contrast printing comes from using green light. If you use a yellow
filter I guess that would lower the contrast of the paper? Don't use a re=
d
filter-))

Nick

FYI-
If you will be contact printing the paper negatives you make from this process,
you will want to use paper that has NO WATERMARK, or it will show up in the
print. If you scan the paper neg, it's not a problem.
HTH,
Doug Allen