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Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 18th 09, 04:36 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
Fotoguy[_2_]
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Posts: 28
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:38:56 -0700, stvlai wrote:

I just got a 2 sets of Strobe lights and the Boom Stand. Got a couple
question I hope someone can help answer

Q1) White Balance
I set the WB to the Gray Card shots that I took manually but the photos
comes out bluish. Normally I use Model lights and set the WB per the
Gray Card and it turns out fine. With strobes lights I am having this
bluish color problem.


It sounds like when you're doing the gray card WB the camera is trying to
white balance ALL the lights, not just the flash. So, forget the gray
card. Just use the camera's "Flash" or "Daylight" WB preset. That
should be good enough. And take your camera off "Auto". Set f-stop and
shutter speed manually.

Also, how are you triggering the flashes?

What camera are you using?

What flashes?


Q2) Ceiling Lights turn off?
When I use Strobes lights, do I turn off all the surrounding lights (e.g
ceiling lights etc) and therefore leaving no lights except when the
Strobe lights flashes? Is this way to do it?


You can. Or if they are part of the composition, you can leave them on.
It's entirely up to you and what type of effect you're looking for.

Flash exposure is controlled with f-stops. With flash, since it's
"instantaneous," shutter speeds have little affect on its exposure, but a
lot on continuous light sources. So, if you set your shutter speed
manually, you can control the amount of ambient light in your shots from
a lot to none at all. But don't set the shutter speed higher than the
flash sync speed. You can set it slower, just not faster.

--
Fotoguy
Contributing Expert
BestInClass.com
"Personalized digital camera recommendations"
http://www.bestinclass.com/digital-cameras
  #2  
Old July 23rd 09, 04:33 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Chance
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Posts: 4
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

"Fotoguy" wrote in message
...

Q2) Ceiling Lights turn off?
When I use Strobes lights, do I turn off all the surrounding lights (e.g
ceiling lights etc) and therefore leaving no lights except when the
Strobe lights flashes? Is this way to do it?



... So, if you set your shutter speed
manually, you can control the amount of ambient light in your shots from
a lot to none at all. But don't set the shutter speed higher than the
flash sync speed. You can set it slower, just not faster.



Don't forget you can also use ND filters/gels over the lens as well to bring
shutter speed down to X-sync.

  #3  
Old July 23rd 09, 09:16 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
Pearls Before Swine
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Posts: 2
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:33:38 +0100, "Chance" wrote:

"Fotoguy" wrote in message
...

Q2) Ceiling Lights turn off?
When I use Strobes lights, do I turn off all the surrounding lights (e.g
ceiling lights etc) and therefore leaving no lights except when the
Strobe lights flashes? Is this way to do it?



... So, if you set your shutter speed
manually, you can control the amount of ambient light in your shots from
a lot to none at all. But don't set the shutter speed higher than the
flash sync speed. You can set it slower, just not faster.



Don't forget you can also use ND filters/gels over the lens as well to bring
shutter speed down to X-sync.


Or just use any of the high quality P&S cameras that rival or beat most
DSLRs in image quality. They don't suffer from X-Sync limitations. The CHDK
compatible cameras having full-frame flash sync up to shutter-speeds of
1/40,000 second. That's shutter-speed, not flash-duration. Flash-duration
runs from 1/10,000 to 1/64,000 (up to 1/224,000 on some of them).

What good is having camera that has slightly cleaner high-ISOs if your
moving subjects are going to get ambient-light blurring from your
crippling-slow focal-plane shutter speeds. Some of you people can't seem to
think things through far enough.

Betty: "Oh, what a nice picture of little Billy. Look how crisp the image
is of him waving bye-bye when using flash. But what's all that odd
yellowish blur around his hand? And why does his face have a weird yellow
blur to it?"

PRO Photographer: "Shhh... pretend that doesn't exist. That's caused by the
ambient incandescent lighting and being limited to X-Sync shutter speeds
when using flash with these expensive cameras. Anything moving in the
scene, like his hand waving or him turning his head fast will get the
slow-shutter speed effects from the ambient light. The flash-duration being
fast enough leaves a crisp outline inside of all that X-Sync shutter-speed
motion blur. That's why you get the crisp bluish-white flash image with the
yellow blur around it. I could have used a good P&S camera with a
leaf-shutter that doesn't suffer from this problem but then nobody at your
kid's birthday party will think I'm a 'PRO'. Why else would I spend so much
money on a camera? Just look at the results. You'll never be able to
believe that I'm a 'PRO' from the quality of my photography. The only way
you'll think I'm a 'PRO' is if I own and try to use a DSLR. What do you
want? Good photos? Or someone that looks like a 'PRO'? You can't have both
you know. Not with these kinds of lighting conditions and having to be
crippled by using X-Sync shutter speeds using last-century designed
focal-plane-shutter cameras. Only 'PRO' cameras suffer from this problem.
This is why we are 'PROs'!! Can't you tell? No, no, don't look at the
photos to see if I'm a 'PRO' or not, LOOK AT THE CAMERA! .... See? I'm a
'PRO'!"

(They're so funny!)


  #4  
Old July 23rd 09, 10:03 PM posted to rec.photo.digital
rwalker
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Posts: 484
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:16:04 -0500, Pearls Before Swine
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:33:38 +0100, "Chance" wrote:


Well, Swine, you certainly do cast some "pearls."
  #5  
Old July 24th 09, 12:13 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
John McWilliams
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Posts: 6,945
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

rwalker wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:16:04 -0500, Pearls Before Swine
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:33:38 +0100, "Chance" wrote:


Well, Swine, you certainly do cast some "pearls."


I see far more casting (as with a salt water spinning reel) than pearls!
And, it's Mister Swine to you!

:-)


--
John McWilliams
  #6  
Old July 24th 09, 01:19 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
SMS
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Posts: 2,312
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

Chance wrote:

Don't forget you can also use ND filters/gels over the lens as well to
bring shutter speed down to X-sync.


Ironically, if you use a Canon P&S, and load chdk onto it, you can have
Flash-Sync speeds of 1/10,000 of second, sometimes more. This is the
only technical advantage of a P&S digital camera.

Some of the newer D-SLRs also have an electronic shutter and are not
limited by the mechanical focal plane shutter and can go up to 1/500
sec, the same as a good P&S without chdk.
  #7  
Old July 24th 09, 01:33 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
SMS - The Pretend Photographer DSLR-Troll
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Posts: 1
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

On Thu, 23 Jul 2009 17:19:39 -0700, SMS wrote:

Chance wrote:

Don't forget you can also use ND filters/gels over the lens as well to
bring shutter speed down to X-sync.


Ironically, if you use a Canon P&S, and load chdk onto it, you can have
Flash-Sync speeds of 1/10,000 of second, sometimes more. This is the
only technical advantage of a P&S digital camera.


It's the "only technical advantage" in the mind of someone who has never
used any camera. There are hundreds of technical advantages to high quality
P&S cameras, but since you've never used either, P&S nor DSLR, you'd never
know this.

Some of the newer D-SLRs also have an electronic shutter and are not
limited by the mechanical focal plane shutter and can go up to 1/500
sec, the same as a good P&S without chdk.


How odd. Even a P&S camera that I bought 8 years ago allows full-frame
flash-sync up to 1/2000 second. I guess that just proves that you don't
know what the hell you are talking about, again.

Enjoy your ignorance. It becomes you. It is you.


How's your other virtual-life pretend careers going? How about that
computer controlled geyser that you installed in Yellowstone Park? Been
back to reprogram that lately?

LOL

Anyone that's curious, do a search for SMS and computer controlled geyser.
This TROLL is so out of touch with reality it's not only funny, its
hysterical. He knows as much about cameras and photography as he does about
anything else--only what he invents in his pea-brain.




  #8  
Old July 25th 09, 01:37 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
Wolfgang Weisselberg
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Posts: 5,285
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

Swine Before Pearls wrote:

Or just use any of the high quality P&S cameras that rival or beat most
DSLRs in image quality.


.... you just have to define image quality as "everything's in
focus" and some more jokes of that kind, which are perfect
for portraits, for example.

Of course, connecting the studio flashes to the P&S is gonna
be interesting ... ever seen a P&S with a PC connector, when
most miss a basic hot shoe?

They don't suffer from X-Sync limitations.


Even assuming that was true it's about never a problem in the
studio ...

The CHDK compatible cameras having full-frame flash sync up to
shutter-speeds of 1/40,000 second.


And an AF taking ages.

That's shutter-speed, not flash-duration. Flash-duration
runs from 1/10,000 to 1/64,000 (up to 1/224,000 on some of them).


So what good is 1/40,000s shutter with 1/10,000s flash? Yep,
logic strikes again. Now, about the flash power at your fabulous
speeds, is that even one milliwattsecond? Will it visibly light
up a bright white paper 10 cm from the lens?

What good is having camera that has slightly cleaner high-ISOs if your
moving subjects are going to get ambient-light blurring from your
crippling-slow focal-plane shutter speeds.


Yes, if you glue the shutter open, you might have problems.
Fortunately, normal people don't act like you.

Some of you people can't seem to think things through far enough.


What was the reason for using studio flash units, again? To
look cool or to have them stand in the way when you use that
P&S of yours?

[Snipped a lot of crap coming from a swine's mind. Let's
adjust that for reality:]

Betty: "Gee, little Billy boy looks so *zombie* with his gleaming
paperwhite skin and his red red eyes! And his face looks so
flat, too. And such great strong film grain, even in colour,
just as if a demon had mixed up the image! The teacher
always says he's possessed by the devil, but how did you
manage to get him look so terrible on paper? All the other
photographers can only show a little pretty angel, and never
go all the way to show shots looking like real oil paintings
by mad apes! And how he looks so ghost-translucent in parts!
What's your secret?"

Photographer: "Wellll, I bought a crappy P&S camera instead
of my proper camera bodies and lenses, because some usenet
troll without a real name said they were oh so much better.
I spend many thousands on real gear, but that P&S won't even
interface with my studio flashes. So I use it's inbuild flash
for ultra short flashes, but have to expose very long to get
at least some light onto the sensor.

Now, the flash makes the eyes red and the skin zombie-ugly,
and the long exposure makes your boy look translucent when
he moves. Because of the little light I can use --- remember,
my expensive studio flashes won't work --- I must use high
ISO and brighten the image a lot --- that causes the demon
ape colours all over, and the noise control software makes
it all look detailless like an oil painting.

Luckily that camera has a tripod hole, or it would look
completely unsharp as well."

Betty: "Marry me! I want your baby! Now!"
[We close the curtains over the little scene where the Betty's eyes
start glowing red, she turns half translucent and the photographer
gets possessed as well.]

(They're so funny!)


You're so out of your depth, it's funny.

-Wolfgang
  #9  
Old July 25th 09, 01:40 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
Wolfgang Weisselberg
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Posts: 5,285
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

The Pretend Photographer P&S-Troll wrote:

There are hundreds of technical advantages to high quality
P&S cameras,


.... if you count each wasted dollar on them as one (at least
for the manufacturer) ...


This TROLL is so out of touch with reality it's not only funny, its
hysterical. He knows as much about cameras and photography as he does about
anything else--only what he invents in his pea-brain.


I have nothing to add to that piece of self-observation.

-Wolfgang
  #10  
Old July 25th 09, 02:43 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
Pearls Before Swine
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Posts: 2
Default Strobe Lights White Balance and Surrounding lights

On Sat, 25 Jul 2009 02:37:43 +0200, Wolfgang Weisselberg
wrote:

Pearls Before Swine wrote:

Or just use any of the high quality P&S cameras that rival or beat most
DSLRs in image quality.


... you just have to define image quality as "everything's in
focus" and some more jokes of that kind, which are perfect
for portraits, for example.

Of course, connecting the studio flashes to the P&S is gonna
be interesting ... ever seen a P&S with a PC connector, when
most miss a basic hot shoe?


Translation: You're an idiot troll who's not even aware of what equipment
and accessories are available for P&S cameras. They can all be hooked up to
banks of studio flashes. If you bought even one camera in your lifetime you
would know this.


They don't suffer from X-Sync limitations.


Even assuming that was true it's about never a problem in the
studio ...

The CHDK compatible cameras having full-frame flash sync up to
shutter-speeds of 1/40,000 second.


And an AF taking ages.


Translation: Idiot snapshooters, whether they use a P&S or a Point and
Shoot DSLR, depend on auto-focus auto-everything.


That's shutter-speed, not flash-duration. Flash-duration
runs from 1/10,000 to 1/64,000 (up to 1/224,000 on some of them).


So what good is 1/40,000s shutter with 1/10,000s flash? Yep,
logic strikes again. Now, about the flash power at your fabulous
speeds, is that even one milliwattsecond? Will it visibly light
up a bright white paper 10 cm from the lens?


Translation: You don't know what to do with any camera in your hands or how
to use any of its features if you did actually get a real camera in your
hands one day.


What good is having camera that has slightly cleaner high-ISOs if your
moving subjects are going to get ambient-light blurring from your
crippling-slow focal-plane shutter speeds.


Yes, if you glue the shutter open, you might have problems.
Fortunately, normal people don't act like you.


Translation: You aren't even aware of what effects are caused by different
shutter-speeds.


Some of you people can't seem to think things through far enough.


What was the reason for using studio flash units, again? To
look cool or to have them stand in the way when you use that
P&S of yours?

[Snipped a lot of crap coming from a swine's mind. Let's
adjust that for reality:]

Betty: "Gee, little Billy boy looks so *zombie* with his gleaming
paperwhite skin and his red red eyes! And his face looks so
flat, too. And such great strong film grain, even in colour,
just as if a demon had mixed up the image! The teacher
always says he's possessed by the devil, but how did you
manage to get him look so terrible on paper? All the other
photographers can only show a little pretty angel, and never
go all the way to show shots looking like real oil paintings
by mad apes! And how he looks so ghost-translucent in parts!
What's your secret?"


Translation: You're an idiot troll who's not even aware of what equipment
and accessories are available for P&S cameras. They can all be hooked up to
banks of studio flashes.


Photographer: "Wellll, I bought a crappy P&S camera instead
of my proper camera bodies and lenses, because some usenet
troll without a real name said they were oh so much better.
I spend many thousands on real gear, but that P&S won't even
interface with my studio flashes. So I use it's inbuild flash
for ultra short flashes, but have to expose very long to get
at least some light onto the sensor.


Translation: You've never used any of these cameras so you just like to
make things up about them.


Now, the flash makes the eyes red and the skin zombie-ugly,
and the long exposure makes your boy look translucent when
he moves. Because of the little light I can use --- remember,
my expensive studio flashes won't work --- I must use high
ISO and brighten the image a lot --- that causes the demon
ape colours all over, and the noise control software makes
it all look detailless like an oil painting.

Luckily that camera has a tripod hole, or it would look
completely unsharp as well."

Betty: "Marry me! I want your baby! Now!"
[We close the curtains over the little scene where the Betty's eyes
start glowing red, she turns half translucent and the photographer
gets possessed as well.]


Translation: You never had a clue, you don't have a clue, and never will
have a clue. Try buying and using some real cameras one day instead of the
ones you envision in your virtual-reality pretend-photographer life.


(They're so funny!)


You're so out of your depth, it's funny.


You're right. I'm not laying in the pretend-photographer's gutter like you
are doing and always will be doing. That's your exact and only "depth".


-Wolfgang


Wolfgang, give it up. You're so transparent as a pretend-photographer
virtual-reality roll-playing troll it isn't even amusing anymore. You're
just pathetically sad and boring, like your real life that you live in your
mommy's basement.

 




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