If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Nikon CLS/Canon Wireless Flash
I have a question about Nikon CLS or Canon Wireless Flash (although I doubt
anyone's tried it on a 7D yet). Is it possible to meter manually and use the off camera flash as a stand-a-lone manual flash, instead of TTL metering? The reason I ask is because if I understand correctly they use light to communicate between the body and the off camera flash. So: 1) Surely this will trigger the light meter too early, giving incorrect exposure readings? 2) If you are on your own, how can you trigger the flash, and hold the light meter on the subject at the same time without using the timer or camera remote? I guess you can't. Unless I'm missing something, I can't see it being any good for manual metering and so is only really any use for TTL shooting? If you're using multiple flashes, it sounds a bit trial and error to me. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Nikon CLS/Canon Wireless Flash
STD wrote:
I have a question about Nikon CLS or Canon Wireless Flash (although I doubt anyone's tried it on a 7D yet). Is it possible to meter manually and use the off camera flash as a stand-a-lone manual flash, instead of TTL metering? Should be. Most flashes have manual power levels in full stops (1/1, 1/2, 1/4 ...). Meter a flash pop adjust flash power and/or aperture accordingly. Set an appropriate shutter speed (1/125 - 1/250 per the camera max sync (even higher with some Nikon's that do electronic shuttering) and you're there. (lower shutter speed to increase ambient content too). Unless I'm missing something, I can't see it being any good for manual metering and so is only really any use for TTL shooting? If you're using multiple flashes, it sounds a bit trial and error to me. The common studio technique, regardless of number of flash heads, is to set the light power for a desired aperture. This includes backgrounds above or under the exposure (pure white walls or subdued greys and everything in between). This takes several meter measurements as you build up the lighting, a final meter check for key exposure and usually a test shot or two (used to be polaroids) to look for hot spots and undesired shadows, deadspots and reflections. The Sony a900/850 is great for these test shots with its intelligent preview where you take a test shot that is not saved on the memory card, but can be used to simulate exposure changes (adjust aperture and see the histo change accordingly; accept the results and they are transfered to the settings. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Nikon CLS/Canon Wireless Flash
"Alan Browne" wrote in message
news STD wrote: I have a question about Nikon CLS or Canon Wireless Flash (although I doubt anyone's tried it on a 7D yet). Is it possible to meter manually and use the off camera flash as a stand-a-lone manual flash, instead of TTL metering? Should be. Most flashes have manual power levels in full stops (1/1, 1/2, 1/4 ...). Meter a flash pop adjust flash power and/or aperture accordingly. Set an appropriate shutter speed (1/125 - 1/250 per the camera max sync (even higher with some Nikon's that do electronic shuttering) and you're there. (lower shutter speed to increase ambient content too). Unless I'm missing something, I can't see it being any good for manual metering and so is only really any use for TTL shooting? If you're using multiple flashes, it sounds a bit trial and error to me. The common studio technique, regardless of number of flash heads, is to set the light power for a desired aperture. This includes backgrounds above or under the exposure (pure white walls or subdued greys and everything in between). This takes several meter measurements as you build up the lighting, a final meter check for key exposure and usually a test shot or two (used to be polaroids) to look for hot spots and undesired shadows, deadspots and reflections. The Sony a900/850 is great for these test shots with its intelligent preview where you take a test shot that is not saved on the memory card, but can be used to simulate exposure changes (adjust aperture and see the histo change accordingly; accept the results and they are transfered to the settings. But that's what I don't get. Say for example, you have a very basic 3 light setup with a person against a white background. 1) Set the camera to manual, 1/125, f/8, ISO 100. 2) Switch the two background lights on, take the hotshoe transmitter off and hold it in your hand (unless you have an overpriced Pocket Wizard system), put the light meter on the background and trigger the hotshoe transmitter. Adjust the two lights until you get f/14 evenly across the background. Check the LCD to see what's blown out. 3) Switch the key on put the light meter on the subject and trigger the hotshoe transmitter. Adjust the light until you get f/8 on the part you want exposed correctly. Piece of p*ss. But, with on camera flash triggering the lights, all I see are problems. I don't get the usefulness of Canon/Nikon wireless flashes, or when you would use them. Maybe I'm just being naive? |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Nikon CLS/Canon Wireless Flash
STD wrote:
"Alan Browne" wrote in message news STD wrote: I have a question about Nikon CLS or Canon Wireless Flash (although I doubt anyone's tried it on a 7D yet). Is it possible to meter manually and use the off camera flash as a stand-a-lone manual flash, instead of TTL metering? Should be. Most flashes have manual power levels in full stops (1/1, 1/2, 1/4 ...). Meter a flash pop adjust flash power and/or aperture accordingly. Set an appropriate shutter speed (1/125 - 1/250 per the camera max sync (even higher with some Nikon's that do electronic shuttering) and you're there. (lower shutter speed to increase ambient content too). Unless I'm missing something, I can't see it being any good for manual metering and so is only really any use for TTL shooting? If you're using multiple flashes, it sounds a bit trial and error to me. The common studio technique, regardless of number of flash heads, is to set the light power for a desired aperture. This includes backgrounds above or under the exposure (pure white walls or subdued greys and everything in between). This takes several meter measurements as you build up the lighting, a final meter check for key exposure and usually a test shot or two (used to be polaroids) to look for hot spots and undesired shadows, deadspots and reflections. The Sony a900/850 is great for these test shots with its intelligent preview where you take a test shot that is not saved on the memory card, but can be used to simulate exposure changes (adjust aperture and see the histo change accordingly; accept the results and they are transfered to the settings. But that's what I don't get. Say for example, you have a very basic 3 light setup with a person against a white background. 1) Set the camera to manual, 1/125, f/8, ISO 100. 2) Switch the two background lights on, take the hotshoe transmitter off and hold it in your hand (unless you have an overpriced Pocket Wizard system), put the light meter on the background and trigger the hotshoe transmitter. Adjust the two lights until you get f/14 evenly across the background. Check the LCD to see what's blown out. I think you'd want to see what _wasn't_ blown out (on the BG) when you're 1 2/3 above aperture (assuming you want a uniformly pure white BG). It's been suggested to me that 1 stop over is enough for a clean white BG in order to avoid edge bleeding. OTOH, you risk under-burning the BG in areas. (OTOH, the bleed effect might not be as pronounced with digital as it is on film unless you have thin objects (wires, hair) in the key light. May cause purple fringing. Check your mileage). 3) Switch the key on put the light meter on the subject and trigger the hotshoe transmitter. Adjust the light until you get f/8 on the part you want exposed correctly. Piece of p*ss. But, with on camera flash triggering the lights, all I see are problems. I don't get the usefulness of Canon/Nikon wireless flashes, or when you would use them. Maybe I'm just being naive? Naïve? Only because you are splitting the issue. The use of wireless TTL is do to (wait for it) wireless TTL. Which, if well understood by the photographer can do wonderful lighting with little fuss - but possibly not the most carefully designed lighting that you do with multiple studio lights. Wireless-TTL (depending on manufacturer) provides for controlled lighting ratios from each flash in the group. While not familiar with the Nikon system, I believe the Canon system provides everything a portable small studio shooter needs to create sophisticated lighting quickly and with little fuss. How you described the lighting, eg: a pure-white BG with a keyed subject, is pretty much bread and butter. In fact, I'd be hard pressed to do that with my wireless TTL setup! (Designed more for key+fill). I suggest that you experiment with TTL wireless as it's designed to be used. Then you will find its advantages and shortcomings quickly enough. Given my results with the Minolta wireless system the greatest shortcoming is lighting consistency due to changing metering as the subject is explored. (metering the white blouse v. the red skirt v. the skin tones v. the black jacket (etc.) will result in varying light output over many exposures unless compensated frame to frame (T-E-D-I-O-U-S). This makes setting the lights manually much more attractive than using TTL metering (wireless or otherwise) in the studio or set location). |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
How does wireless remote flash work? | Roy Smith | Digital SLR Cameras | 16 | May 22nd 06 11:44 PM |
Nikon D2X and wireless flash with SB800-help! | Kris | Digital SLR Cameras | 7 | April 10th 06 06:29 AM |
Minolta 7D - how to use wireless 5600HSD flash | JohnR | Digital SLR Cameras | 8 | October 31st 05 09:47 PM |
300D flash flip bracket? wireless flash? | Todd H. | Digital SLR Cameras | 6 | June 18th 05 10:06 PM |
canon wireless flash setup question | Chris | 35mm Photo Equipment | 8 | February 24th 05 10:59 PM |