Calumet?

"Nermal" wrote

I use 35 mm and 2 1/4 for macro now: no one processes color film in the
large format.

No one? Maybe no one near where you live....

Nermal spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:


Why do you say the Crown Graphic takes longer to set up? I have one,
and I realize it lacks some of the features of monorail cameras, but I
don't really see why it should take longer to set up. (Assuming you
don't have to switch between portrait and landscape orientation, which
would be faster on a camera w/a revolving back; but then, not all
monorails have that feature.)

My old Crown Graphic does take longer to set up...it is not a problem
since I do not use it that often.

Sorry to bug you about this, but I still don't understand why a Crown
Graphic would take longer than a view camera to set up. Assuming one
already has the correct lens mounted in either case:

Crown Graphic:
1. Attach to tripod
2. Open camera, pull out front standard & lock down
3. Open back, put up dark cloth
4. Open shutter & aperture
5. Compose & focus
6. Close shutter, reset aperture & shutter speed, cock shutter
7. Insert film holder, pull dark slide, make exposure.

View camera:
1. Attach to tripod
2. Move front & rear standards to approx. position
3. Open back, put up dark cloth
4. Open shutter & aperture
5. Compose & focus
6. Close shutter, reset aperture & shutter speed, cock shutter
7. Insert film holder, pull dark slide, make exposure.

Unless I'm missing something here ...


--
Don't talk to me, those of you who must need to be slammed in the
forehead with a maul before you'll GET IT that Wikipedia is a
time-wasting, totality of CRAP...don't talk to me, don't keep bleating
like naifs, that we should somehow waste MORE of our lives writing a
variorum text that would be put up on that site.

It is a WASTE OF TIME.

- Harlan Ellison, writing on the "talk page" of his Wikipedia article
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Harlan_Ellison)

Thank you all for the comments. This was the firt post I write here, and I
could already get a sense of the type of help I can get here.

Cheers

Padu

It is step #2, adjust swings and tilts...etc.
Very easy to do on a view camera...a little bit more complicated on a
Crown Graphic especially since the movements are more limited. Y
If I did more large format I would consider the purchase an Omega View
camera. I would love to find a good reason to purchase an 8" x 10" view
camera.

Note: the lab that does my 2 1/4 film has to send the sheet film to an
outside laboratory. The last time (12 years ago) the turn-around time
for Ektachrome slides was 8 days. Ektacolor processing (with contact
sheet only) takes 7 days.



David Nebenzahl wrote:
Nermal spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:


Why do you say the Crown Graphic takes longer to set up? I have one,
and I realize it lacks some of the features of monorail cameras, but
I don't really see why it should take longer to set up. (Assuming you
don't have to switch between portrait and landscape orientation,
which would be faster on a camera w/a revolving back; but then, not
all monorails have that feature.)


My old Crown Graphic does take longer to set up...it is not a problem
since I do not use it that often.

Sorry to bug you about this, but I still don't understand why a Crown
Graphic would take longer than a view camera to set up. Assuming one
already has the correct lens mounted in either case:

Crown Graphic:
1. Attach to tripod
2. Open camera, pull out front standard & lock down
3. Open back, put up dark cloth
4. Open shutter & aperture
5. Compose & focus
6. Close shutter, reset aperture & shutter speed, cock shutter
7. Insert film holder, pull dark slide, make exposure.

View camera:
1. Attach to tripod
2. Move front & rear standards to approx. position
3. Open back, put up dark cloth
4. Open shutter & aperture
5. Compose & focus
6. Close shutter, reset aperture & shutter speed, cock shutter
7. Insert film holder, pull dark slide, make exposure.

Unless I'm missing something here ...

Nermal spake thus:

It is step #2, adjust swings and tilts...etc.
Very easy to do on a view camera...a little bit more complicated on a
Crown Graphic especially since the movements are more limited.

Well, since a Crown Graphic only has front tilt and a little bit of
front shift & front rise, it's actually easier, since there isn't a
whole lot you can do there. No locking the back standard in "neutral"
position, etc.


--
Don't talk to me, those of you who must need to be slammed in the
forehead with a maul before you'll GET IT that Wikipedia is a
time-wasting, totality of CRAP...don't talk to me, don't keep bleating
like naifs, that we should somehow waste MORE of our lives writing a
variorum text that would be put up on that site.

It is a WASTE OF TIME.

- Harlan Ellison, writing on the "talk page" of his Wikipedia article
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Harlan_Ellison)

"Nermal" wrote

I would love to find a good reason to purchase an 8" x 10" view camera.

Desire. Desire is a good enough reason. I mean, why did you
marry your wife?

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

It's wonderful so many people appreciate and use the Crown Graphic. I have
one as well and presently use a 130mm Dagor plus 150mm and 210mm G-Clarons
with it.
Given a Graflite gun and a box of bulbs i'd be as happy as a pig in
you-know-what.
The little creature is very portable, no excuse not to take it out to play.

Yes and the good news is that MAC stocks parts, I had to
replace a strut on my 45 F that had been damaged by the
original owner and repaired with a crummy two part epoxy.
MAC not only stocks parts but will sell to the general
public (if you're knowledgeable enough to describe the part
they reason you can install the part, in the past I bought a
"stop-pin" for a bayonet mount M645 lens and many of the
little leaf springs that hold the roller in RB-67 backs--my
boss shot seniors with RB's and we wore the damn things out).

There are basically two types of monorail Toyo/Omega. A lot
of the 4x5 cameras use a 6x6 standard (C,D,E,F,G). Backs,
bellows and lens boards, all 6x6, all interchange. Some 6x6
models have fixed bellows (the D I think), 4x5 G's are pro
level and heavier, less plastic, more metal; more geared
movements, monorail extensions. G's also have a 6x6 front
end and use tapered bellows and larger rear standards for
the 5x7 and 8x10's.

The 45A, 45AII, and 45CF are folding "field" cameras, have
tapered bellows rather than 6x6 square and share a smaller
110mm lens board (I THINK they share the same size lens
board haven't bought a Toyo field yet--its on my list) the
45CX monorail also uses a tapered bellows and the smaller
lens board (mostly for compatibility for the guy using a
45CF in the field?).

There's 5x7 and 8x10 versions of the G, kits to convert the
G' to other formats, reducing backs for the larger G's,
sliding roll film holders (both Graflok and Mamiya Press) an
older 5x7 field and Toyo made Super Graphics (bought the
tooling from Graflex and shipped it to Japan) for several years.

Also a a couple more "odd ducks", there's a VX which
cleverly folds up very small and uses an extend able rail
and the Robos which is an extra fancy VX. The VX uses the
tapered bellows and smaller lensboard so that it can
collapse into a smaller package.

darkroommike

Gregory Blank wrote:
In article ,
darkroommike wrote:

Nope Omega made by Toyo imported in the US by MAC (Mamiya
America Corporation), they are nice and can be had cheaper
than an older Graphic View or Calumet CC (go figure). And
it's a "system camera--some models have interchangable
bellows, sliding roll film backs and other goodies.
darkroommike

Gregory Blank wrote:
In article rs.com,
"Padu" wrote:

My question is if this is a good camera to start (and start buying stuff
for
it) or should I spend a bit more (and I really mean a bit) and start with
a
calumet 45 model (the black one, with square rails).
Better yet buy a used Omega View D or E in good shape! Built like tanks
and were actually made by Mamiya. Used price maybe 300 dollars, and
you'll have money for film, paper and chemicals.

Ok a minor detail Most of the older goodies should be usable on the
Newer Toyos and vice versus.

E-6 is fairly easy to do yourself or find a good lab, and
get on a first name basis with the plant manager. They will
be glad to handle the occasional rush job and you can mark
up and bill the rush fees to your client.

darkroommike

Nermal wrote:
It is step #2, adjust swings and tilts...etc.
Very easy to do on a view camera...a little bit more complicated on a
Crown Graphic especially since the movements are more limited. Y
If I did more large format I would consider the purchase an Omega View
camera. I would love to find a good reason to purchase an 8" x 10" view
camera.

Note: the lab that does my 2 1/4 film has to send the sheet film to an
outside laboratory. The last time (12 years ago) the turn-around time
for Ektachrome slides was 8 days. Ektacolor processing (with contact
sheet only) takes 7 days.



David Nebenzahl wrote:
Nermal spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:


Why do you say the Crown Graphic takes longer to set up? I have one,
and I realize it lacks some of the features of monorail cameras, but
I don't really see why it should take longer to set up. (Assuming
you don't have to switch between portrait and landscape orientation,
which would be faster on a camera w/a revolving back; but then, not
all monorails have that feature.)


My old Crown Graphic does take longer to set up...it is not a problem
since I do not use it that often.

Sorry to bug you about this, but I still don't understand why a Crown
Graphic would take longer than a view camera to set up. Assuming one
already has the correct lens mounted in either case:

Crown Graphic:
1. Attach to tripod
2. Open camera, pull out front standard & lock down
3. Open back, put up dark cloth
4. Open shutter & aperture
5. Compose & focus
6. Close shutter, reset aperture & shutter speed, cock shutter
7. Insert film holder, pull dark slide, make exposure.

View camera:
1. Attach to tripod
2. Move front & rear standards to approx. position
3. Open back, put up dark cloth
4. Open shutter & aperture
5. Compose & focus
6. Close shutter, reset aperture & shutter speed, cock shutter
7. Insert film holder, pull dark slide, make exposure.

Unless I'm missing something here ...

In article ,
darkroommike wrote:

E-6 is fairly easy to do yourself or find a good lab

E-6 labs are getting hard to find and doing it yourself
isn't as easy as you think if you want quality.