Fuji prediction from an intuitive insider.

I like to stay inside during winter and I predict Mount Fuji will erupt
soon.
Sorry, I couldn't resist baiting the people who jump at every thread about
the possible demise of film.

But seriously, I just started using Provia film with good Nikon glass. I've
got a whack of rolls to get developed. I hope to scan them and post some
links here. Any hints on exposing Provia? I'm not exactly what you'd call
a cultured chrome user.

I've got wieners and marshmallows....flame away.

Sorry, I couldn't resist baiting the people who jump at every thread about
the possible demise of film.

I fell right into it ;-)


Any hints on exposing Provia? I'm not exactly what you'd call
a cultured chrome user.

I expose it at the recommended speed and get good results. I onverexpose
Velvia slightly though.

--
Vincent Becker
Photographie et appareils anciens - Photography and classic cameras
http://www.lumieresenboite.com
Contact direct : http://www.lumieresenboite.com/contact.php

Sorry, I couldn't resist baiting the people who jump at every thread about
the possible demise of film.

I fell right into it ;-)


Any hints on exposing Provia? I'm not exactly what you'd call
a cultured chrome user.

I expose it at the recommended speed and get good results. I onverexpose
Velvia slightly though.

--
Vincent Becker
Photographie et appareils anciens - Photography and classic cameras
http://www.lumieresenboite.com
Contact direct : http://www.lumieresenboite.com/contact.php

Ivan wrote:
m.

But seriously, I just started using Provia film with good Nikon glass. I've
got a whack of rolls to get developed. I hope to scan them and post some
links here. Any hints on exposing Provia? I'm not exactly what you'd call
a cultured chrome user.

--mind the contrast ... you've got 5 stops of latitude at best.
--expose for the highlights +1.7 to 2 stops
--EI 100 at 100, 400 at 400.

Have fun. Not my favourite film. Low Wow/oh-**** ratio.

100F has a higher wow/oh-**** ratio ... for me anyway.

Cheers,
Alan

--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- [SI rulz] http://www.aliasimages.com/si/rulz.html
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.

I think you'd get better results with Nikon lenses than Nikon glass.

I think you'd get better results with Nikon lenses than Nikon glass.

On Tue, 2 Nov 2004 02:12:25 -0600, "Ivan"
wrote:

links here. Any hints on exposing Provia? I'm not exactly what you'd call

Provia 100F has maybe the widest exposure latitude of all slide films.
Just avoid burning the highlights with gross overexposure.

I dropped it for the blue cast that typically appears on the shadows,
but aside from that, it's a very good film, on the cold side of the
color rendition, with excellent resolution and microcontrast,
ultrafine grain (except in the sky, where it exhibits the peculiar
"pepper grain" that is sort of a Provia100F and Sensia-II 100
trademark) and very wide exposure latitude.
Not difficult to scan (while for example Velvia 50 and 100F are quite
difficult to scan for the very high DMax they quickly reach in the
shadows) once to get an hang to the peculiar color reproduction.
It lacks the typical "WOWWWW!!" effect that Velvia50/100 provides. :-)

Bye!

Fernando

On Tue, 2 Nov 2004 02:12:25 -0600, "Ivan"
wrote:

links here. Any hints on exposing Provia? I'm not exactly what you'd call

Provia 100F has maybe the widest exposure latitude of all slide films.
Just avoid burning the highlights with gross overexposure.

I dropped it for the blue cast that typically appears on the shadows,
but aside from that, it's a very good film, on the cold side of the
color rendition, with excellent resolution and microcontrast,
ultrafine grain (except in the sky, where it exhibits the peculiar
"pepper grain" that is sort of a Provia100F and Sensia-II 100
trademark) and very wide exposure latitude.
Not difficult to scan (while for example Velvia 50 and 100F are quite
difficult to scan for the very high DMax they quickly reach in the
shadows) once to get an hang to the peculiar color reproduction.
It lacks the typical "WOWWWW!!" effect that Velvia50/100 provides. :-)

Bye!

Fernando

Fernando offered this useful synopsis:


Provia 100F has maybe the widest exposure latitude of all slide films.
Just avoid burning the highlights with gross overexposure.

I dropped it for the blue cast that typically appears on the shadows,
but aside from that, it's a very good film, on the cold side of the
color rendition, with excellent resolution and microcontrast,
ultrafine grain (except in the sky, where it exhibits the peculiar
"pepper grain" that is sort of a Provia100F and Sensia-II 100
trademark) and very wide exposure latitude.
Not difficult to scan (while for example Velvia 50 and 100F are quite
difficult to scan for the very high DMax they quickly reach in the
shadows) once to get an hang to the peculiar color reproduction.
It lacks the typical "WOWWWW!!" effect that Velvia50/100 provides. :-)

Is the blue cast typical in most lighting situations or are you talking
about sunlit subjects?
Is there a preferred positive film for photographing people with strobes in
a studio environment, which will be scanned later? Am I right in assuming
that you need less exposure latitude in the studio because the lighting
contrast can be more controlled?
Ivan

"Ivan" wrote:
Fernando offered this useful synopsis:

Provia 100F has maybe the widest exposure latitude of all slide films.
Just avoid burning the highlights with gross overexposure.

I dropped it for the blue cast that typically appears on the shadows,
but aside from that, it's a very good film, on the cold side of the
color rendition, with excellent resolution and microcontrast,
ultrafine grain (except in the sky, where it exhibits the peculiar
"pepper grain" that is sort of a Provia100F and Sensia-II 100
trademark) and very wide exposure latitude.

ICE hides the pepper grain nicely. I also understand that the pepper grain
problem either isn't a problem any more or isn't as bad as it used to be.

Not difficult to scan (while for example Velvia 50 and 100F are quite
difficult to scan for the very high DMax they quickly reach in the
shadows) once to get an hang to the peculiar color reproduction.
It lacks the typical "WOWWWW!!" effect that Velvia50/100 provides. :-)

Is the blue cast typical in most lighting situations or are you talking
about sunlit subjects?

FWIW, I find shadows to be similarly blue in Provia 100F, Velvia 100F, and
Astia 100F. IMHO, shadow areas are lit by skylight and look blue because
they are...

Is there a preferred positive film for photographing people with strobes
in
a studio environment, which will be scanned later?

Fuji recommends Astia 100F for portraits.

Am I right in assuming
that you need less exposure latitude in the studio because the lighting
contrast can be more controlled?

Dunno, but I was under the impression that color negative materials are
preferred for studio portrait work.

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan