Cleaning a polarizer nightmare

Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom

Tom Miskiewicz wrote:
Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom

I suggest though rinsing with distilled water and drying with a clean
cloth that has also had a final rinse in clean water (or a new clean lens
tissue). Don't use a cloth that has been washed or dried with as fabric
softener.

I also suggest that you don't over do it. You can often see some
apparent blemish on the surface, but it may well have no effect on the
results.

Take some photos and see if it is really making a difference or creating
a problem. I see far too many situations where someone is worried about
some theoretical problem that in real life is not a problem. According to
theory the honey bee could not fly, but as long as it does not know that it
flies just fine.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Tom Miskiewicz wrote:
Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom

I suggest though rinsing with distilled water and drying with a clean
cloth that has also had a final rinse in clean water (or a new clean lens
tissue). Don't use a cloth that has been washed or dried with as fabric
softener.

I also suggest that you don't over do it. You can often see some
apparent blemish on the surface, but it may well have no effect on the
results.

Take some photos and see if it is really making a difference or creating
a problem. I see far too many situations where someone is worried about
some theoretical problem that in real life is not a problem. According to
theory the honey bee could not fly, but as long as it does not know that it
flies just fine.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:39:40 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Tom Miskiewicz wrote:
Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom

I suggest though rinsing with distilled water and drying with a clean
cloth that has also had a final rinse in clean water (or a new clean lens
tissue). Don't use a cloth that has been washed or dried with as fabric
softener.

That's good advise. But in future, for quick mini-cleans just breath
on the filter. If your breath disappears without identifying any
smudges, leave it alone. If it does need a clean, another breath and
quick rub with lens tissue should do the trick.

I also suggest that you don't over do it. You can often see some
apparent blemish on the surface, but it may well have no effect on the
results.

Take some photos and see if it is really making a difference or creating
a problem. I see far too many situations where someone is worried about
some theoretical problem that in real life is not a problem.

Even if the smudge/blemish doesn't affect the image, it's still
annoying. I don't know why, but it is.

According to theory the honey bee could not fly, but as
long as it does not know that it flies just fine.

It can't actually fly, it just sort of levitates in a vibratory way.

;-)

Compared to traditional flight, there isn't much research into
vibratory levitation, so nobody has bothered to mathematically prove
that's how it moves. I wanted to do this study at uni for a Phd, but
they were more interested in whether pigeons are left or right footed
(that's not a joke, BTW).

As soon as it's wings stop flapping, it plummets. In my book,
plummeting is a good indication of not being able to fly.

--
Owamanga!

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:39:40 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Tom Miskiewicz wrote:
Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom

I suggest though rinsing with distilled water and drying with a clean
cloth that has also had a final rinse in clean water (or a new clean lens
tissue). Don't use a cloth that has been washed or dried with as fabric
softener.

That's good advise. But in future, for quick mini-cleans just breath
on the filter. If your breath disappears without identifying any
smudges, leave it alone. If it does need a clean, another breath and
quick rub with lens tissue should do the trick.

I also suggest that you don't over do it. You can often see some
apparent blemish on the surface, but it may well have no effect on the
results.

Take some photos and see if it is really making a difference or creating
a problem. I see far too many situations where someone is worried about
some theoretical problem that in real life is not a problem.

Even if the smudge/blemish doesn't affect the image, it's still
annoying. I don't know why, but it is.

According to theory the honey bee could not fly, but as
long as it does not know that it flies just fine.

It can't actually fly, it just sort of levitates in a vibratory way.

;-)

Compared to traditional flight, there isn't much research into
vibratory levitation, so nobody has bothered to mathematically prove
that's how it moves. I wanted to do this study at uni for a Phd, but
they were more interested in whether pigeons are left or right footed
(that's not a joke, BTW).

As soon as it's wings stop flapping, it plummets. In my book,
plummeting is a good indication of not being able to fly.

--
Owamanga!

Joseph Meehan wrote:

Tom Miskiewicz wrote:

Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom


I suggest though rinsing with distilled water and drying with a clean
cloth that has also had a final rinse in clean water (or a new clean lens
tissue). Don't use a cloth that has been washed or dried with as fabric
softener.

I also suggest that you don't over do it. You can often see some
apparent blemish on the surface, but it may well have no effect on the
results.

Take some photos and see if it is really making a difference or creating
a problem. I see far too many situations where someone is worried about
some theoretical problem that in real life is not a problem. According to
theory the honey bee could not fly, but as long as it does not know that it
flies just fine.

You meant bumblebee. According to theory, they fly as expected. The problem
was people using the wrong theories. (L=Cl V^2 S rho/2 is just too limited for
bumblebees and hummingbirds. Cl for an insect varies in a complex cycle and
that cycle cycles at 50 - 500 times sec, V too).

As to glass, a film of crap on the filter will increase susceptibilty to flare.
As a polarizer is best used in light falling 90° wrt the optical axis, the
risk of flare is moderete to high (esp. w/o a hood)... so clean glass is a good
goal. I agree that the odd fleck of dust is not that important.

For day to day (not that often really) use, a microfibre cloth is great. Just
don't get the black one, it's too hard to judge if it's dirty. The amber/yellow
one is best, IMO. They can be washed.

100% Cotton shirts are great too, but tend to leave lint. Better to use a black
shirt in this case as black lint won't do anything to the image.

I use Kodak Lens Cleaning Fluid in very sparing amounts with Kodak lens papers.
One 16 oz bottle is a lifetime++ supply.

Cheers,
Alan


--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.

Joseph Meehan wrote:

Tom Miskiewicz wrote:

Hi!

I have the nikon polarizer II. I was trying to clean it with water and
soap, but every time some water drops and the water stain I can't get
rid of are left. No matter how you touch it, you don't get it clean.
Any advice appreciated!

Tom


I suggest though rinsing with distilled water and drying with a clean
cloth that has also had a final rinse in clean water (or a new clean lens
tissue). Don't use a cloth that has been washed or dried with as fabric
softener.

I also suggest that you don't over do it. You can often see some
apparent blemish on the surface, but it may well have no effect on the
results.

Take some photos and see if it is really making a difference or creating
a problem. I see far too many situations where someone is worried about
some theoretical problem that in real life is not a problem. According to
theory the honey bee could not fly, but as long as it does not know that it
flies just fine.

You meant bumblebee. According to theory, they fly as expected. The problem
was people using the wrong theories. (L=Cl V^2 S rho/2 is just too limited for
bumblebees and hummingbirds. Cl for an insect varies in a complex cycle and
that cycle cycles at 50 - 500 times sec, V too).

As to glass, a film of crap on the filter will increase susceptibilty to flare.
As a polarizer is best used in light falling 90° wrt the optical axis, the
risk of flare is moderete to high (esp. w/o a hood)... so clean glass is a good
goal. I agree that the odd fleck of dust is not that important.

For day to day (not that often really) use, a microfibre cloth is great. Just
don't get the black one, it's too hard to judge if it's dirty. The amber/yellow
one is best, IMO. They can be washed.

100% Cotton shirts are great too, but tend to leave lint. Better to use a black
shirt in this case as black lint won't do anything to the image.

I use Kodak Lens Cleaning Fluid in very sparing amounts with Kodak lens papers.
One 16 oz bottle is a lifetime++ supply.

Cheers,
Alan


--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.

In article ,
Owamanga writes:

As soon as it's wings stop flapping, it plummets. In my book,
plummeting is a good indication of not being able to fly.

So what is your stance on helicopters?

--
http://www.petezilla.co.uk

In article ,
Owamanga writes:

As soon as it's wings stop flapping, it plummets. In my book,
plummeting is a good indication of not being able to fly.

So what is your stance on helicopters?

--
http://www.petezilla.co.uk

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 18:46:54 +0000 (UTC), (Peter
Chant) wrote:

In article ,
Owamanga writes:

As soon as it's wings stop flapping, it plummets. In my book,
plummeting is a good indication of not being able to fly.

So what is your stance on helicopters?

If my piloting experience in MS Flight Sim 2004 is anything to go by,
these are risky at best.

Anyway, who makes flapping helicopters?

--
Owamanga!