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wrote
What happens when pottasium ferricyanide is applied on selective areas of selenium-toned fibre based prints In my experience, not much of anything. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24 Polytoner for ~5 minutes. Esalen? I thought that went the way of faded San Francisco Art Nouveau body paint ... -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
#2
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Bleaching Selenium- Toned FB Prints
What happens when pottasium ferricyanide is applied on selective areas
of selenium-toned fibre based prints for the purpose of bleaching in order to retouch the print. Generally, we use pottasium ferricyanide on prints that have not been selenium toned in order to bleach to prepare the print for retouching. Will selenium-toned prints be affected by pottasium ferricyanide? The selenium is a mild dilution, 1:30, and the prints are washed throughly after being toned in preparation for retouching. |
#3
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In my experience, not much of anything. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24
Polytoner for ~5 minutes. It must depend on the paper. My MFA thesis show ~15 years ago had a series of prints variously affected by pot. ferricyanide and selenium toner in all sorts of combinations. On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones. I still have a few of those prints around the house. I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test print. Bill Schneider |
#4
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In my experience, not much of anything. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24
Polytoner for ~5 minutes. It must depend on the paper. My MFA thesis show ~15 years ago had a series of prints variously affected by pot. ferricyanide and selenium toner in all sorts of combinations. On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones. I still have a few of those prints around the house. I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test print. Bill Schneider |
#5
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"William Schneider" wrote
Nicholas Lindan wrote: In my experience, not much of anything [happened when bleached toned prints]. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24 Polytoner for ~5 minutes. On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones. Strange, I wonder what chemical was formed? I went back to my notes: Ilford MGIV RC, pearl finish, postcard stock, Kodak Polytoner 1:24. Not a very standard combination, but nothing happened - 20 postcards into the trash. AA, YMWV. I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test print. Good advice. Though if everybody followed it there wouldn't be all that much use for Usenet. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
#6
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"William Schneider" wrote
Nicholas Lindan wrote: In my experience, not much of anything [happened when bleached toned prints]. I tone 1:9 in KRST or 1:24 Polytoner for ~5 minutes. On 1:8 selenium toned prints on now-extinct Portriga Rapid paper, bleaching would produce pronounced orangish-sepia tones. Strange, I wonder what chemical was formed? I went back to my notes: Ilford MGIV RC, pearl finish, postcard stock, Kodak Polytoner 1:24. Not a very standard combination, but nothing happened - 20 postcards into the trash. AA, YMWV. I guess the best answer for the original poster would be to try it on a test print. Good advice. Though if everybody followed it there wouldn't be all that much use for Usenet. -- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ |
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