Toning Agfa Classic FB

I love this paper for it's unique tonal rendition, but it is the
oddest brownish green color I've ever seen. When I try to break
through this color with
selenium I find I have to go 6-8 min ( Selenium approx.85 degrees 1:14
)and it then split tones, which I hate. It then proceedes to go
practically rose colored. I'm not a big toner fan. I just want to
arrive at a selenium-like color.

Do any other users find this problem, and/or can you suggest a
different approach to a better color? I develop the paper in Bromophen
1:3, but have had
the same problem with Agfa Neutol as well.

Ken Smith wrote:
I love this paper for it's unique tonal rendition, but it is the
oddest brownish green color I've ever seen. When I try to break
through this color with
selenium I find I have to go 6-8 min ( Selenium approx.85 degrees 1:14
)and it then split tones, which I hate. It then proceedes to go
practically rose colored. I'm not a big toner fan. I just want to
arrive at a selenium-like color.

Do any other users find this problem, and/or can you suggest a
different approach to a better color? I develop the paper in Bromophen
1:3, but have had
the same problem with Agfa Neutol as well.
Are you talking about 118? From what I've found, Agfa fibre papers don't
really respond very well to Selenium. They both respond (well) to
sulphide toning especially the 111 (gloss). Unfortunately, you might be
better off with another paper, if it's the colour which puts you off,
seeing as you've tried a couple of paper developers...

Ken Smith wrote:

I love this paper for it's unique tonal rendition, but it is the
oddest brownish green color I've ever seen. When I try to break
through this color with
selenium I find I have to go 6-8 min ( Selenium approx.85 degrees 1:14
)and it then split tones, which I hate. It then proceedes to go
practically rose colored. I'm not a big toner fan. I just want to
arrive at a selenium-like color.

Do any other users find this problem, and/or can you suggest a
different approach to a better color? I develop the paper in Bromophen
1:3, but have had
the same problem with Agfa Neutol as well.
You can prevent the split toning effect as follows (at least it works
for me). First tone you photo in Agfa Viradon New for 1 minute (or use
another comparable polysulphide toner). The tone of your photo will
become slightly warmer. Immediately after treatment put the paper in a
bath of 10% sodium sulphite for 5 minutes (stops toning). Wash for 15
minutes and then use your selenium toner. You get a nice brown color
without splitting.

Succes,
Walter

nicholas wrote in message ...
Ken Smith wrote:
I love this paper for it's unique tonal rendition, but it is the
oddest brownish green color I've ever seen. When I try to break
through this color with
selenium I find I have to go 6-8 min ( Selenium approx.85 degrees 1:14
)and it then split tones, which I hate. It then proceedes to go
practically rose colored. I'm not a big toner fan. I just want to
arrive at a selenium-like color.

Do any other users find this problem, and/or can you suggest a
different approach to a better color? I develop the paper in Bromophen
1:3, but have had
the same problem with Agfa Neutol as well.
Are you talking about 118? From what I've found, Agfa fibre papers don't
really respond very well to Selenium. They both respond (well) to
sulphide toning especially the 111 (gloss). Unfortunately, you might be
better off with another paper, if it's the colour which puts you off,
seeing as you've tried a couple of paper developers...

Yes, the 111. Does the 118 tone any different? I do want to find some
combo of developer to toner that suits this paper. It has a mood that
is like no other paper, and I don't want pass on using it to best advantage.

You can prevent the split toning effect as follows (at least it works
for me). First tone you photo in Agfa Viradon New for 1 minute (or use
another comparable polysulphide toner). The tone of your photo will
become slightly warmer. Immediately after treatment put the paper in a
bath of 10% sodium sulphite for 5 minutes (stops toning). Wash for 15
minutes and then use your selenium toner. You get a nice brown color
without splitting.

Succes,
Walter


Thanks. Although I really don't want Brown. Sulphite toners are all
sepia-like. I'd rather acheive a true neutral/black tone. I'm going to try
a blue-black developer. Then who knows, some fooling around with
gold toners, whatever stays on the cool side. I know this
sounds like I'm going totally against the nature of this warm tone
paper, but if I can swing it's color into a true charcoal black, with
that smoldering tonal scale of Agfa, I may have something.

Ken Smith wrote:
Yes, the 111. Does the 118 tone any different? I do want to find some
combo of developer to toner that suits this paper. It has a mood that
is like no other paper, and I don't want pass on using it to best advantage.

Regarding 118, it's quite a different creature, not only is the surface
different, but the paper base is cream. I believe this paper was meant
to be a variable contrast version of Portriga Rapid. Now if you want
green highlights then that is one funny coloured paper.

Ok, then, I've got some very recent experience toning 111 in Selenium at
20x24in size. With my setup it tones slowly and takes at least 5-7
minutes before taking on any amount of colour (compares to about 2-3mins
and definate tonal shift and colour with Fortezo). This is at 18C-ish
and a dilution of less than 1:20 more like 1:17... *No* green tone at
all, this was in Dektol before or after the toning. I've never fully
understood split toning in Selenium as sometimes it seems to happen and
other times not. I wonder if your temperature might have something to do
with the split.

Ken Smith wrote:
You can prevent the split toning effect as follows (at least it works
for me). First tone you photo in Agfa Viradon New for 1 minute (or use
another comparable polysulphide toner). The tone of your photo will
become slightly warmer. Immediately after treatment put the paper in a
bath of 10% sodium sulphite for 5 minutes (stops toning). Wash for 15
minutes and then use your selenium toner. You get a nice brown color
without splitting.

Succes,
Walter



Thanks. Although I really don't want Brown. Sulphite toners are all
sepia-like. I'd rather acheive a true neutral/black tone. I'm going to try
a blue-black developer. Then who knows, some fooling around with
gold toners, whatever stays on the cool side. I know this
sounds like I'm going totally against the nature of this warm tone
paper, but if I can swing it's color into a true charcoal black, with
that smoldering tonal scale of Agfa, I may have something.
If you want to get a neutral/black tone you could also try tetenal gold
toner. It tones evenly and you get a neutral to cold-black tone.