warm toner?

I mixed up a batch of Gevaert G.262 warm tone developer (DC #68) and I
really like the results 1:1 with Ilford and Forte Warmtone. I'd like to add
a touch more warmth tho. The 1:2 dilution works well but it's dreadfully
slow (5-6 min). Is there a protecting toner that adds a subtle warmth? Most
toners I know of are too obvious - Brown toner & Sepia are way over the top
and Selinium is too purple. Any other options?

--
It is not our patriotic duty to send children to be butchered & slaughtered
& to butcher & slaughter others every time a general or a politician gets a
hardon for a war. Rather, it is our patriotic duty to demand the highest
burden of proof to justify war. It is also our patriotic duty to hold
treasonous, corporate whore, war criminals accountable for their actions.

seog wrote:

Is there a protecting toner that adds a subtle warmth?
Most toners I know of are too obvious - Brown toner &
Sepia are way over the top and Selinium is too purple.
Any other options?


Nelson's Gold Toner may be just your ticket.
As Mr.Knoppow has pointed out it is a sepia toner.
As such it is the last word in archival processing.
Nelson's is a hypo toner. There is no alum. It does
not produce sepia toned prints. The minute amount of gold
present alters the color and warm tones are the result.
Also, the very little gold present in Nelson's catalyzes the
reaction. The high temperatures of the usual hypo-alum
baths are not necessary. In fact I've read that it can be
used at room temperature.
I've all the ingredients and one-of-these-days. Dan

wrote in message
oups.com...
seog wrote:

Is there a protecting toner that adds a subtle warmth?
Most toners I know of are too obvious - Brown toner &
Sepia are way over the top and Selinium is too purple.
Any other options?


Nelson's Gold Toner may be just your ticket.
As Mr.Knoppow has pointed out it is a sepia toner.
As such it is the last word in archival processing.
Nelson's is a hypo toner. There is no alum. It does
not produce sepia toned prints. The minute amount of gold
present alters the color and warm tones are the result.
Also, the very little gold present in Nelson's catalyzes
the
reaction. The high temperatures of the usual hypo-alum
baths are not necessary. In fact I've read that it can be
used at room temperature.
I've all the ingredients and one-of-these-days. Dan

Nelson's might do the job. It doesn't split tone when
partial toning is done. The best source of instruction is
the patent, USP 1,849,245 which can be downloaded from the
U.S.Patent Office site at http://www.uspto.gov

Nelson's is very slow at room temperature so its
recommended that it be heated to 100F. Its main drawback is
the cost of the Gold Chloride but very little is needed.

Kodak Brown Toner, used at room temperature may also work.
KBT does not split tone and even partial toning provides
considerable image protection. At room temperature it works
very slowly so it may be useful in providing just a little
more warmth. Use a "stop bath" of 10% sodium sulfite, stock
Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent works, to prevent continued toning
in the wash. A minute in this bath is enough. It also clears
the yellow color left from the toner and prevents staining.

The patent office site has virtually every US patent ever
issued but those issued before 1975 are available only as
TIFF images. In order to see them you need a plug-in. The
best is Alternatiff, freeware available at
http://www.alternatiff.com There are versions for both IE
and Firefox/Mozilla/Netscape. Saved files can be viewed and
printed using the image and fax viewer built into Windows.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

Thanks for the suggestion on Nelson Gold Toner. A bit more hassle than I
wanted but I'll give it a shot. RK and Cookbook say to heat it so I will but
how? A seperate thread.

"seog" wrote in message
news:PtKsf.2035$SW3.1342@trndny08...
Thanks for the suggestion on Nelson Gold Toner. A bit more
hassle than I wanted but I'll give it a shot. RK and
Cookbook say to heat it so I will but how? A seperate
thread.
There are many ways of heating. The easiest is to float
the tray with the toner in a larger tray with hot water in
it. The temperature is not critical, around 100F is
recommended. It will simply tone more slowly at cooler
temperatures.
BTW, it is very important to re-fix the prints as the
last step. The toner evidently generates some halides which
must be removed or they will eventually cause image
degradation in the same way a poorly fixed print would.
After fixing wash in the usual way.
I would also try the added bromide someone else
suggested. I don't know how much is called for by the
Gevaert formula but in general one can go up to around 15 or
20 grams per liter of stock solution with many print
developers. When a lot of bromide is used it slows the paper
so more exposure is required and may also slow the
development. Also, as a rule of thumb, the shorter the
development time the warmer the print. However, very short
times, less than perhaps 2 minutes are not recommended.
The warm tones gotten by direct development are due to
the size and structure of the silver particles making up the
image. Again, in general, the smaller they are the warmer
the image. Very fine silver particles are more vulnerable to
attack by oxidants and sulfides in the air so a print which
is _toned_ warm is more likely to have a long life.
Also note that not all toners produce stable images. For
instance Copper toner and Iron Blue toner images are less
stable than the original Silver.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 05:28:15 GMT, "seog" wrote:

Thanks for the suggestion on Nelson Gold Toner. A bit more hassle than I
wanted but I'll give it a shot. RK and Cookbook say to heat it so I will but
how? A seperate thread.


I use an electric food warming tray. The toner goes in a plastic tray
that sits in an aluminum tray partially filled with water, which all
sits on the warming tray. The idea is to improve the heat transfer
and eliminate hot spots on the plastic. Seems to work well enough,
and I really like the warming effect with Ilford MGWT FB. About 5
minutes of toning eliminates the "greenish" cast and produces a warm
black with a hint of reddish brown.

Chris Ellinger
Ann Arbor, MI
USA