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#1
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MACRO MADNESS WITH THE MIGHTY MP-E !!!
paul wrote:
Mike Engles wrote: Hello Have a look what this chap does with this lens. Also with the cropping factor,the magnification is higher http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=880342 Amazing stuff: http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2427178 Hello In the past Olympus had one of the best macro systems available. This is with a OM4 a 65-115 extension tube, a 38 mm lens and TTL Flash, on Kodachrome. Magnification is about what the Canon PE does. I took this many years ago. http://www.btinternet.com/~mike.engl...AntsAphids.jpg For anyone interested, here is the setup I used, with a home made flash extension. I also have a ring flash, but rarely used it, lighting is very 'flat'. This setup can simulate the angle of the sun. There is more than enough light for f16, but one has to be aware of diffraction problems, so f11 is best. Closest focussing is about 50mm http://www.btinternet.com/~mike.engles/mike/Macro.jpg Mike Engles |
#2
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paul wrote:
Mike Engles wrote: Hello Have a look what this chap does with this lens. Also with the cropping factor,the magnification is higher http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=880342 Amazing stuff: http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2427178 Hello In the past Olympus had one of the best macro systems available. This is with a OM4 a 65-115 extension tube, a 38 mm lens and TTL Flash, on Kodachrome. Magnification is about what the Canon PE does. I took this many years ago. http://www.btinternet.com/~mike.engl...AntsAphids.jpg For anyone interested, here is the setup I used, with a home made flash extension. I also have a ring flash, but rarely used it, lighting is very 'flat'. This setup can simulate the angle of the sun. There is more than enough light for f16, but one has to be aware of diffraction problems, so f11 is best. Closest focussing is about 50mm http://www.btinternet.com/~mike.engles/mike/Macro.jpg Mike Engles |
#3
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"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... paul wrote: Mike Engles wrote: Hello Have a look what this chap does with this lens. Also with the cropping factor,the magnification is higher Mike Engles -------- Mike... Is it necessary to kill the insects before photographing them? Some time ago my mentor had an amazing collection of butterfly photos. He killed ever last one of them claiming it was the only way to keep them still long enough to get a clear photo. Douglas |
#4
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"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... paul wrote: Mike Engles wrote: Hello Have a look what this chap does with this lens. Also with the cropping factor,the magnification is higher Mike Engles -------- Mike... Is it necessary to kill the insects before photographing them? Some time ago my mentor had an amazing collection of butterfly photos. He killed ever last one of them claiming it was the only way to keep them still long enough to get a clear photo. Douglas |
#5
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Douglas wrote:
"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... paul wrote: Mike Engles wrote: Hello Have a look what this chap does with this lens. Also with the cropping factor,the magnification is higher Mike Engles -------- Mike... Is it necessary to kill the insects before photographing them? Some time ago my mentor had an amazing collection of butterfly photos. He killed ever last one of them claiming it was the only way to keep them still long enough to get a clear photo. Douglas Hello It is never necessary. Photographing a live insect is the challenge. When I did macro on film, I would be extremely lucky if I got ONE perfect image out of a 36 exp roll.A lot of the time I just threw the whole film in the bin. The advantage with digital is that you can see if you have a perfect image, using the review. http://www.btinternet.com/~mike.engl...e/Hoverfly.jpg This one was alive! Mike Engles |
#6
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"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... Douglas wrote: I have heard of putting them in the fridge of freezer to make them sluggish (no pun intended) and make them easier to shoot. |
#7
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"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... Douglas wrote: I have heard of putting them in the fridge of freezer to make them sluggish (no pun intended) and make them easier to shoot. |
#8
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ian lincoln wrote:
"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... Douglas wrote: I have heard of putting them in the fridge of freezer to make them sluggish (no pun intended) and make them easier to shoot. Hello But by the time you have put them in a natural looking setting,they will have warmed up and flown away. Just study the behaviour of the animals and you will be able to photograph them in the wild. You can encourage insects to come to you. I used to put a tall stick next to the pond. Dragonflies love to have a high vantage point an will use one if you give them one. Mike Engles |
#9
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ian lincoln wrote:
"Mike Engles" wrote in message ... Douglas wrote: I have heard of putting them in the fridge of freezer to make them sluggish (no pun intended) and make them easier to shoot. Hello But by the time you have put them in a natural looking setting,they will have warmed up and flown away. Just study the behaviour of the animals and you will be able to photograph them in the wild. You can encourage insects to come to you. I used to put a tall stick next to the pond. Dragonflies love to have a high vantage point an will use one if you give them one. Mike Engles |
#10
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"ian lincoln" wrote in message ... "Mike Engles" wrote in message ... Douglas wrote: I have heard of putting them in the fridge of freezer to make them sluggish (no pun intended) and make them easier to shoot. That works with children too. |
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