noblex or modified MF for panoramic

In article . com,
says...
Hey folks -

I've been staring dreamily at the Hasselblad XPan for several years,
but the money just hasn't materialized. I would still like to do
panoramic shots, and here are the thoughts I'm mulling over:

1. Get a used noblex. Am I correct in thinking this needs to be on a
stand to shoot properly?

2. Get a used MF camera, and put some bands on the viewpiece, and
perhaps even the film back, in order to get the correct panoramic
framing, and then use a wide-angle lens. A benefit of this idea is that
I have a MF format that I can use for non-panoramic images too.

Thoughts?

Steve


I have lots of Noblex shots (35mm) on my web site if you want to see how
they look in practice. For the 35mm size I handhold about 99% of the
time. My model is limited to 1/30 as the slowest speed and this takes
about 1/2 sec for the drum to rotate.
The model that makes 1 sec exposures takes about 2 min for the drum to
rotate, so you may want to consider that if you are planning long
exposures.
The Noblex has a curved film plane which makes horizontal parallel lines
bow outwards giving a cigar shape. The Xpan and cropped MF don't do
this. You can use the effect for artistic purposes or "fix" it via
digital means if you scan the film. I have a tip on how to do this.

Another option is to stitch with 35mm. You can examine some examples of
this on my site as well. I shoot vertically with a 12mm lens which
gives 120degrees vertically and up to 360 horizontally, depending on
the number of frames. Effective frame size is 50% larger than the
Noblex, but not as big as MF.

You might want to rent a Noblex with an option to buy. Many people
find the odd perspective not to their liking.

--
Robert D Feinman
Landscapes, Cityscapes and Panoramic Photographs
http://robertdfeinman.com
mail:

In article ,
"David J. Littleboy" wrote:

http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/int...0/Page%201.htm

My take is that if one is interested in scanning MF, buying one and figuring
out how to get the most out of it is the right way to start.

The Nikon 9000 will get more detail and more shadow detail from your slides.
But it's four times the price.

But the 4990 is so close, you may not want to bother with the 9000.

The only "danger" is that the 4990 will be happier with negative materials,
and the 9000 will be happier with reversal films. So the long term "right
choice" of what film to shoot gets complicated. The 8000/9000 with Provia
100F are really sweet. But if one isn't going to buy a 9000, one might be
better off shooting Reala or some other quality negative film for scanning
on the 4990. (I have the impression that the Epson flatbeds are much happier
with negative films. The 8000/9000 exacerbate the grain in negative films
somewhat.)

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan

Thanks David, lots of my film is LF and more and more MF, I say I shoot
more slides than negatives but have a huge pile of unscanned negatives.
The 4990 should be a big improvement over the 2450 I have,...maybe an
early Christmas present to me,.....next goal a epson 7800 :-)
--
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

www.gregblankphoto(dot)com