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#11
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Oh, BTW, a simple test (was salvaging a developer)
? wrote: Exhausted film developer is more costly than exhausted print developer, you only know when you wasted negatives. But there in lies the answer. Cut off a couple of inches of unexposed film and seal in your developing tank as though it was a roll. Develop normally. A quick inspection should give you a clue whether you want to use that developer on important negatives. Oh fer crying out loud. Just use ***FRESH*** developer. It's like a few extra minutes out of your day to mix some up and you always get consistent results. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Ebay Sales: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAP...ems&userid=dsc Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "br" wrote in message ... I have a half gallon of Xtol, which I'm sure, will not give proper development because it was made up about 9 months ago. (It's still clear) Is there any type of chemical that can be added to make sure of normal development? I would like to experiment but not sure how to start. (I heard that Xtol's life dimishes with age) Bill |
#12
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Oh, BTW, a simple test (was salvaging a developer)
John wrote: On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:45:34 +0000, Tom Phillips wrote: Oh fer crying out loud. Just use ***FRESH*** developer. It's like a few extra minutes out of your day to mix some up and you always get consistent results. Tolerance is not our best trait is it ? Ignorance and idiocy abounds. Welcome to the 21st century. Whatever century, one thread on this topic seemed enough. Richard's answer appeared all encompassing and exhaustive. |
#13
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Excellent Question (was salvaging a developer)
Thank you for asking that question although some had to puff themselves up
at your expense. Don't mind them, they are simply part of the noise of the cosmos and behave as they must. One of the responses led me to a product source for which I had been searching. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Ebay Sales: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAP...ems&userid=dsc Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "br" wrote in message ... I have a half gallon of Xtol, which I'm sure, will not give proper development because it was made up about 9 months ago. (It's still clear) Is there any type of chemical that can be added to make sure of normal development? I would like to experiment but not sure how to start. (I heard that Xtol's life dimishes with age) Bill |
#14
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Oh, BTW, a simple test (was salvaging a developer)
Exhausted film developer is more costly than exhausted print developer, you
only know when you wasted negatives. But there in lies the answer. Cut off a couple of inches of unexposed film and seal in your developing tank as though it was a roll. Develop normally. A quick inspection should give you a clue whether you want to use that developer on important negatives. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Ebay Sales: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAP...ems&userid=dsc Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "br" wrote in message ... I have a half gallon of Xtol, which I'm sure, will not give proper development because it was made up about 9 months ago. (It's still clear) Is there any type of chemical that can be added to make sure of normal development? I would like to experiment but not sure how to start. (I heard that Xtol's life dimishes with age) Bill |
#15
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Excellent Question (was salvaging a developer)
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:03:16 -0500, "?" ?@???.??? wrote:
One of the responses led me to a product source for which I had been searching. Ah ! You found the data sheet for D76 ! Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
#16
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Oh, BTW, a simple test (was salvaging a developer)
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:45:34 +0000, Tom Phillips
wrote: Oh fer crying out loud. Just use ***FRESH*** developer. It's like a few extra minutes out of your day to mix some up and you always get consistent results. Tolerance is not our best trait is it ? Ignorance and idiocy abounds. Welcome to the 21st century. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
#17
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Excellent Question (was salvaging a developer)
From the time you devoted in your attempt at cracking wise, it would appear
you don't disagree that you were trying to puff yourself up at the questioner's expense. Looks like you have too much time on your hands. BTW, it was corks for which I was looking. I am a watchmaker and use them for flat polishing steel to a black polish. Here is an example of what I do to make my living: http://www.bcpl.net/~dclark/Customer/Jeff/VCIndex16.JPG In case you need help interpreting the photo, the middle part is the piece I made to replace the lower part and the watch cell is for size comparison. What is D-76? Always willing to learn something new from a master. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Ebay Sales: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAP...ems&userid=dsc Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "John" wrote in message ... On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:03:16 -0500, "?" ?@???.??? wrote: One of the responses led me to a product source for which I had been searching. Ah ! You found the data sheet for D76 ! Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
#18
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Excellent Question (was salvaging a developer)
On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:48:01 -0500, "?" ?@???.??? wrote:
From the time you devoted in your attempt at cracking wise, it would appear you don't disagree that you were trying to puff yourself up at the questioner's expense. Looks like you have too much time on your hands. I only wish ! Actually I work on computers nearly 12 hours a day. This stuff is somewhat entertaining. BTW, it was corks for which I was looking. I am a watchmaker and use them for flat polishing steel to a black polish. LOL ! Well I certainly would never have guessed that ! Here is an example of what I do to make my living: http://www.bcpl.net/~dclark/Customer/Jeff/VCIndex16.JPG Ever work on shutters ? In case you need help interpreting the photo, the middle part is the piece I made to replace the lower part and the watch cell is for size comparison. What is D-76? Always willing to learn something new from a master. From my site ; Kodak's D-76 D Water @ 125F 750ml Elon 2.0g Sod.Sulfite 100g Hydroquinone 5.0g Borax (gran.) 8.0g Boric Acid 8.0g Water to make 1.0L This is believed to be the modern, updated version of D-76. A timeless classic that has probably been used more than all other developers combined. It's the developer of choice for all of the ISO tests and gives a well balanced set of features to all who use it. Development times for full strength stock at 68F are ; TMX - 100 - 9.0min. TMY - 400 - 8.0min. By diluting the stock solution a marked increase in sharpness can be realized. This is due to the dilution of the Sod. Sulfite which would normally give a fine grain effect but also has the consequence of degrading sharpness. Times for a 1:1 dilution at 68 are ; TMX - 100 - 12.0min TMY - 400 - 12.5min. A dilution of 1:3 is also possible, however I do not have E.K.'s recommendations. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
#19
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salvaging a developer
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:50:47 -0500, "br" wrote:
I have a half gallon of Xtol, which I'm sure, will not give proper development because it was made up about 9 months ago. (It's still clear) Is there any type of chemical that can be added to make sure of normal development? I would like to experiment but not sure how to start. (I heard that Xtol's life dimishes with age) Bill jan2804 from Lloyd Erlick, Nine months may not have been enough to kill this developer. As long as you're not going to use it on irreplaceable work, why not give it a try, just to see? I've had Xtol stock last well over a year. I recommend using it within its rated lifespan, but for self-education it's not a waste. I store my Xtol in five, one liter plastic (PETE) recycled Pepsi bottles (Pepsi had a wider mouth than the others when I was looking...). Glass would be even better, but I find plastic convenient and commonly available for free. Xtol's reputation varies a great deal depending who you talk to. I always do a snip test on my working solution prior to developing a batch of film. regards, --le _______________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, 2219 Gerrard Street East, unit #1, Toronto M4E 2C8 Canada. --- voice 416-686-0326 http://www.heylloyd.com _______________________________________ |
#20
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Excellent Question (was salvaging a developer)
I have taken down an FM shutter; but that is all I done. It is my own and I
bought another as a model. BTW, Tomosey leads you down a garden path on taking the FM shutter apart. He fails to mention the need to disconnect the shutter cocking springs and how to preload them. This is not covered in the Nikon manual either; I suspect it was discussed in the workshops and if you missed that day you were out of luck. Taken down manual lenses including diaghrams; really not that big a deal. I could not bring myself to put any oil on the shutter power train. Viscous friction increases with speed (in watches I actually use three different weights of oil w/ the lightest at the balance wheel) and I would tend to think oiling the pivots of the gear train would screw things up. The shutter escapement zips along a helluva lot faster than any watch escapement. I lubed the slow moving parts (cams and such) but left the rest alone. Again, this is not covered int he Nikon manuals. Seems they felt it was really a Copal unit that was to handled as a subassembly complete. My F4 will go to Nikon if the time comes. I got the service manual and there is way too much going on in there. Those units need to be someplace where you can just reach in a bin and pull out a new part to replace a marginal part. I'll even bet they swap out whole subassemblies and have guys in the deep back rooms who rebuild the subassemblies later. Just went to your website; you do provide a very nice service to the community and I thank you. -- Regards, Dewey Clark http://www.historictimekeepers.com Ebay Sales: http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAP...ems&userid=dsc Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution "John" wrote in message ... On Wed, 28 Jan 2004 12:48:01 -0500, "?" ?@???.??? wrote: From the time you devoted in your attempt at cracking wise, it would appear you don't disagree that you were trying to puff yourself up at the questioner's expense. Looks like you have too much time on your hands. I only wish ! Actually I work on computers nearly 12 hours a day. This stuff is somewhat entertaining. BTW, it was corks for which I was looking. I am a watchmaker and use them for flat polishing steel to a black polish. LOL ! Well I certainly would never have guessed that ! Here is an example of what I do to make my living: http://www.bcpl.net/~dclark/Customer/Jeff/VCIndex16.JPG Ever work on shutters ? In case you need help interpreting the photo, the middle part is the piece I made to replace the lower part and the watch cell is for size comparison. What is D-76? Always willing to learn something new from a master. From my site ; Kodak's D-76 D Water @ 125F 750ml Elon 2.0g Sod.Sulfite 100g Hydroquinone 5.0g Borax (gran.) 8.0g Boric Acid 8.0g Water to make 1.0L This is believed to be the modern, updated version of D-76. A timeless classic that has probably been used more than all other developers combined. It's the developer of choice for all of the ISO tests and gives a well balanced set of features to all who use it. Development times for full strength stock at 68F are ; TMX - 100 - 9.0min. TMY - 400 - 8.0min. By diluting the stock solution a marked increase in sharpness can be realized. This is due to the dilution of the Sod. Sulfite which would normally give a fine grain effect but also has the consequence of degrading sharpness. Times for a 1:1 dilution at 68 are ; TMX - 100 - 12.0min TMY - 400 - 12.5min. A dilution of 1:3 is also possible, however I do not have E.K.'s recommendations. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
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