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#161
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"TP" wrote in message ... "William Graham" wrote: Yeah.....I yank my (F5) finder off all the time....For cleaning dust out of the finder prism, screen, and even the mirror beneath. It is a routine part of my camera maintenance....... Paradoxically, if you used a body with a fixed finder, such as the F100 or new F6, you probably wouldn't have to clean the camera quite so often. With interchangeable viewfinders, it doesn't matter how good the sealing appears to be, dust and moisture can get in, and they surely do. That's what I would have thought too, but I sure get a lot of crap inside my camera, even though I am really careful....I am always taking cat hairs off of my mirror, and sometimes off the bottom of the screen. (We have three cats) And I have rather a bad case of psoriasis on my arms and upper body, and so I get a fair amount of dead skin dust into everything.... |
#162
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"William Graham" wrote in message newsuL3d.472542$%_6.326832@attbi_s01... That's what I would have thought too, but I sure get a lot of crap inside my camera, even though I am really careful....I am always taking cat hairs off of my mirror, and sometimes off the bottom of the screen. (We have three cats) And I have rather a bad case of psoriasis on my arms and upper body, and so I get a fair amount of dead skin dust into everything.... I forgot to add that if I had a non-removable finder, I would be afraid that it would be harder to clean, even if I had to clean it less often....IOW, I think I would rather put up with the junk getting inside the camera, and know that it is fairly easy to clean it out, than I would hope that it didn't get in there to begin with, and know that it's going to be really hard to clean it out. |
#163
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"William Graham" wrote:
That's what I would have thought too, but I sure get a lot of crap inside my camera, even though I am really careful....I am always taking cat hairs off of my mirror, and sometimes off the bottom of the screen. (We have three cats) And I have rather a bad case of psoriasis on my arms and upper body, and so I get a fair amount of dead skin dust into everything.... On a "need to know" basis, perhaps you went into ever so slightly too much detail there, William. ;-) |
#164
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"William Graham" wrote:
That's what I would have thought too, but I sure get a lot of crap inside my camera, even though I am really careful....I am always taking cat hairs off of my mirror, and sometimes off the bottom of the screen. (We have three cats) And I have rather a bad case of psoriasis on my arms and upper body, and so I get a fair amount of dead skin dust into everything.... On a "need to know" basis, perhaps you went into ever so slightly too much detail there, William. ;-) |
#165
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"William Graham" wrote:
I forgot to add that if I had a non-removable finder, I would be afraid that it would be harder to clean, even if I had to clean it less often....IOW, I think I would rather put up with the junk getting inside the camera, and know that it is fairly easy to clean it out, than I would hope that it didn't get in there to begin with, and know that it's going to be really hard to clean it out. Good point. Cleaning my F3 and F4 bodies was (relatively) a trivial task, aided by their removable finders. |
#166
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"William Graham" wrote:
I forgot to add that if I had a non-removable finder, I would be afraid that it would be harder to clean, even if I had to clean it less often....IOW, I think I would rather put up with the junk getting inside the camera, and know that it is fairly easy to clean it out, than I would hope that it didn't get in there to begin with, and know that it's going to be really hard to clean it out. Good point. Cleaning my F3 and F4 bodies was (relatively) a trivial task, aided by their removable finders. |
#167
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"William Graham" wrote in message
news:m0M3d.230473$mD.19389@attbi_s02... "William Graham" wrote in message newsuL3d.472542$%_6.326832@attbi_s01... That's what I would have thought too, but I sure get a lot of crap inside my camera, even though I am really careful....I am always taking cat hairs off of my mirror, and sometimes off the bottom of the screen. (We have three cats) And I have rather a bad case of psoriasis on my arms and upper body, and so I get a fair amount of dead skin dust into everything.... I forgot to add that if I had a non-removable finder, I would be afraid that it would be harder to clean, even if I had to clean it less often....IOW, I think I would rather put up with the junk getting inside the camera, and know that it is fairly easy to clean it out, than I would hope that it didn't get in there to begin with, and know that it's going to be really hard to clean it out. You're really going to hate digital... Peter |
#168
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"Gordon Moat" wrote in message
... [Snip] I always think of the 1/500 of leaf shutters as a standard that 35mm generally falls short of. 1/250 .. 1/300 is damned good of course. Another reason why I got a Yashica Electro GT (actually two, but who's counting). While I am stuck to one fixed lens, it is one way to get that 1/500 in 35 mm. One problem is that the camera is aperture priority, so it is tough to tell if the shutter is operating at 1/500, or slightly slower. Medium format is much better for this stuff. You could look into the Konica S3 Auto. That is shutter priority auto (no manual override, unfortunately) with a _fantastic_ 38mm f1.7 lens and, of course, sync. up to 1/500. It also has a nice fill flash system that, in effect, tells you in the VF how much fill relative to ambient you are giving. Peter |
#169
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"Alan Browne" wrote in message
... Gordon Moat wrote: Alan Browne wrote: [SNIP] I have used a Rollei 6008i with PQS lenses on a couple occasions, and the 1/1000 sync is noticeable, though not something that get used often. Even 1/500 works quite well, though anything much less than that is not much difference. These are high ambient light fill flash conditions, specific to some photographers and some situations, but I think still a bit limited usage in the overall scheme of things. 1/1000 sync! Some flashes discharge a good part of their energy beyond 1 ms at full power, so got to watch out. A flash meter with a variable gate time is the answer to this. Not sure if the Rollei's TTl system also deals with the issue, but presumably it would. Since all that TTL can do is quench the flash, then if there is enough light it will do so, and if either you run out of light or the shutter closes the problem (for TTL flash) is the same: the same as an underpowered flash normally produces. Peter |
#170
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"Alan Browne" wrote in message
... Gordon Moat wrote: Alan Browne wrote: [SNIP] I have used a Rollei 6008i with PQS lenses on a couple occasions, and the 1/1000 sync is noticeable, though not something that get used often. Even 1/500 works quite well, though anything much less than that is not much difference. These are high ambient light fill flash conditions, specific to some photographers and some situations, but I think still a bit limited usage in the overall scheme of things. 1/1000 sync! Some flashes discharge a good part of their energy beyond 1 ms at full power, so got to watch out. A flash meter with a variable gate time is the answer to this. Not sure if the Rollei's TTl system also deals with the issue, but presumably it would. Since all that TTL can do is quench the flash, then if there is enough light it will do so, and if either you run out of light or the shutter closes the problem (for TTL flash) is the same: the same as an underpowered flash normally produces. Peter |
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