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#11
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David J Taylor commented courteously ...
I must admit that the small built-in flash on these cameras has its limitations. With my own photography, when inside museums etc. I usually try and use the natural lighting, even if that means having to prop the camera on an object for support. Hi, David. I've had nothing but trouble shooting available light with my 5700. I shoot mainly car pictures at places like The Henry Ford Museum and The Walter P. Chrysler Museum. Both are dim, the HF museum would make a bar look bright! I've tried a small tripod, which works, but its cumbersome and slow. What's worse, though, is that in my experience, anything over ISO 200, certainly 800, creates images that look like the car was painted on beach sand. That's true even if I turn on the 5700's Noise Reduction. The noise is so bad that I cannot realistically eliminate it even using Paint Shop Pro 9's outstanding Digital Camera Noise Reduction Filter. As to flash, you're clearly right about the Speedlight - it's range is about 10', max. My Sunpak 433D has a guide number of 120, so should have a range of up to about 30- 35', which is more than ample. I only alluded to my problem in my previous post. I'd say that about 1/3 of my flash pictures (either flash) are excellent, another 1/3 are underexposed but can be easily fixed in PSP 9, but the final 1/3 are 5-6 f/stops under (which of course starts kicking up noise). I can sometimes fix these in PSP also, but not always. I have the 5700's feature to display the just-shot image in the EVF for 3 seconds after each shot, so I can tell right away if I've gotten an underexposure. I've worked with Nikon Tech Support and sent the camera in for service but no dice. I've "talked" to a couple of other 5700 owners who also said they got inconsistent exposures similar to mine. I've tried to determine a root cause so I could avoid it, but haven't found one yet. I have yet to get a bad picture in smaller rooms, such as my house or a closed-in area of a museum. The biggest culprits a very dark ambient light, dark cars (the bright cars work much better), and areas where there's nothing around or over the car to reflect the flash (museums selding have drop ceiling so your suggestion to tilt the Sunpak's flash head up for bounce doesn't help me). Also, while not conclusive, I find that when I have to stand back and use mild-to-moderate telephoto on the zoom lens, I get more underexposures (can't always fix that, though, because of barriers preventing me from getting closer). It seems to me anecdotally that the 5700's flash sensor is biased to wide-angle and it is reading that even though I've zoomed in. I changed from "matrix" to "spot" metering in Setup which has helped, but only marginally. When I know I've got an unacceptably bad exposure, I switch to full manual mode (M), estimate the distance by pacing it off, and use the Sunpak's GN. Works pretty well, but it is much slower to do this. Also, even when I have a pretty accurate distance, I find that the 5700 tends to underexpose anyway, so I often have to take a series of test shots once I have the so-called "correct" aperture. And, it continues to **** me off that a Nikon is *so* much worse than my previous Fuji 4900 even with its puny on- board flash. The flash I do use is restricted to objects at a fairly constant distance, i.e. not with great range between front and back like a car close-up. The fall off of light with distance is rather rapid - although you can use bounce flash if the ceiling is low enough. Yep, light falls off as the square of the distance so shooting a car picture at an angle, for example a front 3/4 view, creates problems. And, the foreground and background get killed as well. Highlights often blow out and shadows turn to ink. So, I almost always have to spend a fair amount of time in PSP selecting various parts of the picture and fixing the underexposure areas individually. I'm still trying to learn how to put a gradient fill on a layer at the angle the car is and use that to linearly brighten the image, knowing that the light fall-off isn't really linear. I have found that you need to keep the front of the camera clear of obstructions. If the flash sensor or the lamp itself is obstructed you can get odd exposures. Right on, David! My fat fingers often get in the way. What Nikon Service did was clean the camera, guess they thought the sensor was dirty or maybe something inside the camera was dirty. I sent those guys 30+ pictures on a CD with documentation of things like shotting conditions and focus distance. Of course, they could examine the EXIF data to find out quite a bit (but distance isn't in EXIF but aperture is). While on the subject of "fat fingers", I'm *always* accidently putting my finger on the litte button on the side of the camera that controls the JPEG compression. Sometimes I don't spot that I've accidently switched from "fine" to "normal" or "basic" until I've taken a bunch of ruined shots, so I have to scurry back and try again. I wish that this feature was either in Setup or needed a 2nd button to make it work. Bad ergonomic design IMHO. Thanks for your help. If you have any other suggestions for me after reading my clarification, I'd be appreciative. -- ATM, aka Jerry |
#12
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[Ken:]
I own a Panasonic DMC FZ-20 5mp 12x zoom digital ZLR camera and because of that I can post to this group and talk about it as much as I like. Of course. It is the inalienable right of every idiot to display his idiocy for everyone to see, and this newsgroup is here to provide you with a space to do so. I really enjoy using this type of ZLR camera. I'm sure you do, some people have strange habits indeed. They cannot see a Zooming-Long-Retroflex device without almost fainting in bliss. It's the best in its class. It is the longest, it is the thickest and it zooms in and out very fastly and forcefully. What else someone in love with retroflex devices might wish? What type of ZLR camera do you own? Sorry, but since my natural inclination is for penian rather than anal pleasure I have never owned any retroflex device! The best, Julio |
#13
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[Ken:]What type of ZLR camera do you own?
[Leo:] I would suspect he doesn't Ken, at least not by his definition. As just explained in my previous message, I indeed do not own any retroflex device, such as ZLRs (Zooming-Long-Retroflex) devices and dildos in general. But please feel free to discuss them on this newsgroup if this is your pleasure! All he is intent on is destroying this NG. Why should I? I deeply respect the right of users of retroflex devices to discuss about how long and thick and protruding and enjoyable are their beloved toys. I aso respect their right to masturbate while thinking and saying that they have a reflex camera. The ZLR I own is a Nikon CP8800 Although very thick, your retroflex device (10x) is not as long as Ken's (12x). This is because of different anatomies and personal preferences. Anyway it is very protruding and your pleasure can always be increased digitally (that is, with the help of the fingers). and BTW it also has an EVF. Who cares. What is important for the people this newsgroup is intended to is that it will always be a long, thick, protruding, enjoyable Zooming-Long-Retroflex. The best, Julio. |
#14
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"J.S.Pitanga" wrote in message news I own a Panasonic DMC FZ-20 5mp 12x zoom digital ZLR camera and because of that I can post to this group and talk about it as much as I like. I really enjoy using this type of ZLR camera. It's the best in its class. I should also mention that it takes pretty pictures and I can display them on my computer monitor. I can also print those pretty pictures with my Canon printer so I can share them with my friends. My friends really like to see the pretty pictures I take. I won't share them with you though. I don't think you want to be my friend. I can't imagine that you have any friends and if you did they are probably not very nice people. It must miserable being you. |
#15
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All Things Mopar wrote:
[] While on the subject of "fat fingers", I'm *always* accidently putting my finger on the litte button on the side of the camera that controls the JPEG compression. Sometimes I don't spot that I've accidently switched from "fine" to "normal" or "basic" until I've taken a bunch of ruined shots, so I have to scurry back and try again. I wish that this feature was either in Setup or needed a 2nd button to make it work. Bad ergonomic design IMHO. Thanks for your help. If you have any other suggestions for me after reading my clarification, I'd be appreciative. I wish I did, Jerry, but I think I'm at the limit of my knowledge. Perhaps if you can get a loaner of another camera to compare, you could consider selling the 5700. Not a very positive thing to say, but if the design is faulty (and as your Fuji 4900 proved) then you aren't going to get very far. You'll know that whilst I've kept the 5700 for now, I've tried the 8400, and if you can manage with 85mm maximum focal length that may be a possibility (there are no easy to press compression level buttons, I know just what you mean!). I know it's a bit late to ask now, but why did you move from the Fuji 4900? Cheers, David |
#16
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In article , J.S.Pitanga
wrote: Of course. It is the inalienable right of every idiot to display his idiocy for everyone to see And you sure are doing a fine job of displaying it!!! -- Charles |
#17
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"Ken" wrote in
: "J.S.Pitanga" wrote in message news I own a Panasonic DMC FZ-20 5mp 12x zoom digital ZLR camera and because of that I can post to this group and talk about it as much as I like. I really enjoy using this type of ZLR camera. It's the best in its class. What type of ZLR camera do you own? Personally I own a Canon G2. I also own a computer and have a news account. And I can post in any group I wish. As long I stay within the charter of the group I am also more than welcome to do so. The meaning of the acronym ZLR is within the charter of this group with a broad margin as this group is called ZLR. The fact that the charter for this group discribes cameras that shall really not be called ZLR is a valid topic. The making of this group was a mistake as it is spreading misinformation. I understand that you that post here need a group to discuss your somewhat more advanced compact digital cameras. But I don't understand why you insist that your cameras are called ZLR. They are mostly EVF and sometimes only normal digital cameras with more zoom. /Roland |
#18
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Roland Karlsson wrote:
[] The making of this group was a mistake as it is spreading misinformation. I understand that you that post here need a group to discuss your somewhat more advanced compact digital cameras. But I don't understand why you insist that your cameras are called ZLR. They are mostly EVF and sometimes only normal digital cameras with more zoom. No, a majority people voted /for/ rather than /against/ this group - as a place for discussing high-end SLR-like cameras. "ZLR" was the best name that anyone could come up with, so now let's get on and talk about the cameras! Thanks, David |
#19
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"David J Taylor"
wrote in .uk: No, a majority people voted /for/ rather than /against/ this group - as a place for discussing high-end SLR-like cameras. "ZLR" was the best name that anyone could come up with, so now let's get on and talk about the cameras! Ye - I know the history behind it. And - of course - you can discuss higher ended low end digital cameras here or whatever how much you like. But - I don't think it is OK to jump at anyone that comes here and is surprised over the faulty name. You have to get over that a mistake was made and that it will repeatedely be questioned why this group is called ZLR. It will happen over and over again as long as this group is active. It is wrong - and you know it. And some here gets very edgy when someone says so. /Roland |
#20
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