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#1
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
I have some Nikon lenses right now with a D70. Focusing is slow and not
always accurate. Last weekend, I tried capturing some sports pics with my 80-200 F/2.8 lens and I wasn't happy with it. Now I'm going to buy a D90 for miscellaneous reasons, and while I'm doing that I thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? |
#2
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
acorn wrote:
I have some Nikon lenses right now with a D70. Focusing is slow and not always accurate. Last weekend, I tried capturing some sports pics with my 80-200 F/2.8 lens and I wasn't happy with it. Now I'm going to buy a D90 for miscellaneous reasons, and while I'm doing that I thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? Depends which non AF-s 80-200 you are using. The later 2-ring versions are much faster than the older push-pull versions, but not quite as fast as the 80-200 AF-s or 70-200 VR. AF motor wind speed is the same in all Nikon D*0 bodies I've tried or owned. D2/3 series have a faster motor. What I would suggest if you're often shooting action is to consider the D300 rather than the D90, as the difference in body price is less than the difference in lens prices, and for continuous servo AF on moving targets, the module in the D300 is *much* better than the module in the D80/90, and that probably makes much more difference than the mechanical speed that the focus mechanism in the lens can be driven. |
#3
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
On Tue, 7 Oct 2008 22:50:58 -0700, "acorn"
wrote: I have some Nikon lenses right now with a D70. Focusing is slow and not always accurate. Last weekend, I tried capturing some sports pics with my 80-200 F/2.8 lens and I wasn't happy with it. Now I'm going to buy a D90 for miscellaneous reasons, and while I'm doing that I thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? Probably, but you would be better off buying the 16-85 and 85-200 lens. There is no point in handicapping the D90 with a lens with a performance the next level down. Mind you, its all a question of $$$$$. Eric Stevens |
#4
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
wrote in message ... On Tue, 7 Oct 2008 22:50:58 -0700, in rec.photo.digital "acorn" wrote: I have some Nikon lenses right now with a D70. Focusing is slow and not always accurate. Last weekend, I tried capturing some sports pics with my 80-200 F/2.8 lens and I wasn't happy with it. Now I'm going to buy a D90 for miscellaneous reasons, and while I'm doing that I thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? Someone else has pointed out that there are various versions of the non-AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8. I shoot a lot of long f.l.shots and started with a D70. What exactly were the settings you were using? Aperture, shutter speed, AF-S or AF-C? You do know that AF-C mode, if you are using it, in the D70 will release the shutter without a focus lock. I was mostly using F2.8 or 3.3 with high shutter speeds, with aperture priority. I wasn't using AF-C mode. I was using AF-S. But can you explain your comment about the focus lock if I were in AF-C mode? And I am now likely to buy the D300 instead of the D90 in case that makes any difference to your thinking. |
#5
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
"acorn" wrote:
thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? Someone else has pointed out that there are various versions of the non-AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8. I shoot a lot of long f.l.shots and started with a D70. What exactly were the settings you were using? Aperture, shutter speed, AF-S or AF-C? You do know that AF-C mode, if you are using it, in the D70 will release the shutter without a focus lock. I was mostly using F2.8 or 3.3 with high shutter speeds, with aperture priority. I wasn't using AF-C mode. I was using AF-S. But can you explain your comment about the focus lock if I were in AF-C mode? And I am now likely to buy the D300 instead of the D90 in case that makes any difference to your thinking. I'd guess that getting the latest version of the AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 with VR would, for your purposes make a difference. I have the most recent (two ring) version of the AF-D 80-200mm, f/2.8 ED, which I've used to shoot indoor sports. Selecting "Limited" rather than "Full" focus range is a good idea, otherwise it now and then will key on something way too different than the last shot, and you lose time getting it back to reality. The D300 will help greatly (I've used mine with the D1, the D2x and the D3). The AF-S mode defaults to requiring a focus lock before the shutter will fire. But the focus lock is a one shot effort too, so if you push the shutter button half way down, the camera will focus and then lock on that focus and stay there as long as you hold down the shutter release button half way. (You'll probably get in the habit of tapping the shutter button to get the lens refocus repeatedly.) If you hold it half way down and move the camera or subject for a different focus distance the focus does not change. For many things that is exactly what is most useful, but not always. The AF-C mode by default does not require focus to fire the shutter, and hence will merrily take any number of out of focus exposures you can manage! But focus is not a one shot focus lock, and if you hold the shutter release half way down the camera will continue to readjust its focus. Just that if you push the shutter release button all the way down it will fire the shutter whether focus had been achieved or not. Generally, for static subjects that don't move, AF-S mode works best. For sports or other instances where the subject is moving, AF-C usually works best. Also note that if half way pressing the shutter button accurately (and not accidentally firing the shutter) is difficult, the AF-ON button accomplishes the same effect and may be easier to use. Also, the AF-C mode enables predictive focusing to attempt a focus at a point where a moving object will be by the time the image is actually exposed. Of course there are many options for adjusting how those modes work. (Or, at least there are on the D2x and the D3 models that I have, but I'm not sure about the D90 or D300. You need to download the manuals for them, and carefully read up on what each camera can do.) As noted, the focus lock is required by default for AF-S and not for AF-C, but that can be changed. In practice the default makes the AF-S/AF-C switch a focus required on/off too, which is a handy option. But for someone shooting a sporting event it might be very useful to set AF-C to require focus. I've found that in certain circumstances the AF-S with focus lock required simply will not lock, and I can't fire the shutter. I switch to AF-C and use that, which sometimes gets me a few out of focus shots because I don't hold down the shutter release button at the half way point long enough to get a focus (in AF-C it never actually "locks", but the option on the D3 is that it will fire if the dot indicator says it is in focus). -- Floyd L. Davidson http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) |
#6
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
Floyd L. Davidson wrote:
"acorn" wrote: thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? Someone else has pointed out that there are various versions of the non-AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8. I shoot a lot of long f.l.shots and started with a D70. What exactly were the settings you were using? Aperture, shutter speed, AF-S or AF-C? You do know that AF-C mode, if you are using it, in the D70 will release the shutter without a focus lock. I was mostly using F2.8 or 3.3 with high shutter speeds, with aperture priority. I wasn't using AF-C mode. I was using AF-S. But can you explain your comment about the focus lock if I were in AF-C mode? And I am now likely to buy the D300 instead of the D90 in case that makes any difference to your thinking. I'd guess that getting the latest version of the AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 with VR would, for your purposes make a difference. I have the most recent (two ring) version of the AF-D 80-200mm, f/2.8 ED, which I've used to shoot indoor sports. Selecting "Limited" rather than "Full" focus range is a good idea, otherwise it now and then will key on something way too different than the last shot, and you lose time getting it back to reality. Yes - also see note below re "focus tracking with lock-on". The D300 will help greatly (I've used mine with the D1, the D2x and the D3). The AF-S mode defaults to requiring a focus lock before the shutter will fire. But the focus lock is a one shot effort too, so if you push the shutter button half way down, the camera will focus and then lock on that focus and stay there as long as you hold down the shutter release button half way. (You'll probably get in the habit of tapping the shutter button to get the lens refocus repeatedly.) If you hold it half way down and move the camera or subject for a different focus distance the focus does not change. For many things that is exactly what is most useful, but not always. The AF-C mode by default does not require focus to fire the shutter, and hence will merrily take any number of out of focus exposures you can manage! But focus is not a one shot focus lock, and if you hold the shutter release half way down the camera will continue to readjust its focus. Just that if you push the shutter release button all the way down it will fire the shutter whether focus had been achieved or not. Generally, for static subjects that don't move, AF-S mode works best. For sports or other instances where the subject is moving, AF-C usually works best. Also note that if half way pressing the shutter button accurately (and not accidentally firing the shutter) is difficult, the AF-ON button accomplishes the same effect and may be easier to use. Also, the AF-C mode enables predictive focusing to attempt a focus at a point where a moving object will be by the time the image is actually exposed. Of course there are many options for adjusting how those modes work. (Or, at least there are on the D2x and the D3 models that I have, but I'm not sure about the D90 or D300. D3/300/700 AFAIK have same options, for continuous servo - selectable shutter or focus priority, or "both" release+focus (some compromise - the camera decides somehow - I never use it so can't comment more), plus setting focus tracking with lock-on, to adjust the delay (if any) before the camera seeks to acquire focus on (usually the background) if the subject moves out of the focus area that is selected (9/21/51 points). AFAIK, a difference between D80 and D90 with the same AF module is that 3d tracking has been added to the D90 - a feature that might or might not be of use, it recognises patterns in the subject within the focus area, and attempts to track the pattern by shifting focus points used laterally around the frame, but with D300 not really fast enough to track an object coming toward you or away from you fast, where "normal" continuous servo mode and 9 or 21 AF points can work very well. For me "3d" mode seems more gimmick than useful feature, but YMMV. You need to download the manuals for them, and carefully read up on what each camera can do.) As noted, the focus lock is required by default for AF-S and not for AF-C, but that can be changed. In practice the default makes the AF-S/AF-C switch a focus required on/off too, which is a handy option. But for someone shooting a sporting event it might be very useful to set AF-C to require focus. Unfortunately reading the manual may not be enough - you really need to try the cameras in conjunction with knowing what the features are to work out how these things work. Or you can trust opinion, that D300 (or better - D3/700) is a big step above anything other current model in the Nikon line, then spend the days or weeks learning how to use it. I've found that in certain circumstances the AF-S with focus lock required simply will not lock, and I can't fire the shutter. I switch to AF-C and use that, which sometimes gets me a few out of focus shots because I don't hold down the shutter release button at the half way point long enough to get a focus (in AF-C it never actually "locks", but the option on the D3 is that it will fire if the dot indicator says it is in focus). I've found that with lenses (ultra-wide) where with D70 and D80 there was difficulty achieving AF lock using the edge sensors, that the D300 is much much better. In the case of the extreme edge sensors in the D3/700/300, they are still not "cross" type, but perform much better than the D80 or D70. Using the centre cross type sensors in low light with any lens, there is also no comparison. |
#7
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
Floyd L. Davidson wrote:
"acorn" wrote: thought maybe I should get the Silent Wave version of the 80-200 lens. Would I really notice the difference when using a Silent Wave lens? Someone else has pointed out that there are various versions of the non-AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8. I shoot a lot of long f.l.shots and started with a D70. What exactly were the settings you were using? Aperture, shutter speed, AF-S or AF-C? You do know that AF-C mode, if you are using it, in the D70 will release the shutter without a focus lock. I was mostly using F2.8 or 3.3 with high shutter speeds, with aperture priority. I wasn't using AF-C mode. I was using AF-S. But can you explain your comment about the focus lock if I were in AF-C mode? And I am now likely to buy the D300 instead of the D90 in case that makes any difference to your thinking. I'd guess that getting the latest version of the AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8 with VR would, for your purposes make a difference. I have the most recent (two ring) version of the AF-D 80-200mm, f/2.8 ED, which I've used to shoot indoor sports. Selecting "Limited" rather than "Full" focus range is a good idea, otherwise it now and then will key on something way too different than the last shot, and you lose time getting it back to reality. The D300 will help greatly (I've used mine with the D1, the D2x and the D3). Floyd, Does the D300 have better image quality than the D2x? I'm just curious. My path was D1x, D80, D300, I skipped the D2X. My D300 is wonderful and I love it. Snipped. -- Sheila http://swdalton.com |
#8
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Would I notice a difference with Nikon Silent Wave lenses?
Sheila wrote:
The D300 will help greatly (I've used mine with the D1, the D2x and the D3). Floyd, Does the D300 have better image quality than the D2x? I'm just curious. My path was D1x, D80, D300, I skipped the D2X. My D300 is wonderful and I love it. I have not been in a position to compare the D2x with the D300 in any critical way. I assume the D300 would have less noise at ISO 800 or 1600, but at lower values there is probably no difference at all, or the D2x might be slightly better. But generally that is not the reason to choose one of those models over the other. If the budget does not allow a D3 or a D700, or if DX is better suited to the requirements than FX, the D300 and D2x are the top candidates. But the D300 is a prosumer model and the D2x is a pro model. One is larger and heavier, and has every feature Nikon could cram into a DSLR at the time. The other is smaller lighter, and lacks some features... but it is also newer and has some (such as 14-bit raw data) features not available when the D2x came out. I'd be *very* hard pressed to choose one over the other... -- Floyd L. Davidson http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) |
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