hdr question

On 7/4/2015 12:59 AM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jul 3, 2015, Savageduck wrote
(in article201507032059444107-savageduck1@REMOVESPAMmecom):

On 2015-07-04 03:20:21 +0000, said:

On 2015-07-04 02:23:09 +0000, said:

On 7/3/2015 10:13 PM, Bill W wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 21:56:11 -0400,
wrote:

This was a 5 exposure HDR, converted to BW. The HDR rendition and the
BW
conversion were done using NIK software. No other modifications were
made. I cannot undertand why the vertical post on the door is so
blurry,
compared to the ret of the image. What did I misss?


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...h_0105_HDR.jpg

Something appears to have gone very wrong. The whole image looks
blurry to me, but it looks like a multiple exposure in general. I
don't know if I'm seeing moire, or something else. Did the camera move
between exposures? Or did something else change? Did you use a tripod?

Then again, I'm sure others here will have a better analysis.

I was trying hand held. I know I should not have been too lazy to get a
tripod.

That depends on the actual exposure range. What was your bracket EV
interval for the 5 exposures?

I also want to test the ghost reduction.

Ghost reduction is only going to come into play with unwanted movement,
such as a bird flying through the bracket set. Then you have to select
one of the exposures as the "Ghost Removal Reference" shot and adjust
the Ghost removal strength appropriately.

It seems that you have a serious alignment problem whch the ghost
removal will not fix.

Does the tractor look blurry?

Very.

My solution would be to use Lightroom Photo Merge - HDR. See my prior
post or if you want more detailed help we can move this to email.

This might give you some idea of how I use Photo Merge -HDR in LR for
a single exposure. In the case of your bracket I would choose the 0 EV
and work with that in LR.
https://db.tt/nIuPyfxx

There seems to be something screwy with that DB link so I am gong to pull the
file and use CC instead.
http://adobe.ly/1f9SJdj

Thanks to all. I tried my own vairent of the Duck's suggestion. I used a
single image.
IUnitial processing in DXO and used smart lighting.
Exported to ACR, and made brought up the shadows a bit, and reduced
highlights a bit.
Converted to BW as above, . I then used NIK HDR Efex Pro 2, to the
single image. The image came out a bit flat for my taste, so I made a
levels adjustment to add some contrast.
I have the tonality just about where I want it. The result looks too
busy for my taste. If I decide the image is worth it, I will make
further adjustments to crop, & make the tractor the center of interest.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0107_DxO2.jpg


--
PeterN

On 04 Jul 2015 in rec.photo.digital, Savageduck wrote:

On 2015-07-04 09:55:19 +0000, Joe Makowiec
said:

On 03 Jul 2015 in rec.photo.digital, Savageduck wrote:

This might give you some idea of how I use Photo Merge - HDR in
LR for a single exposure. In the case of your bracket I would
choose the 0 EV and work with that in LR.

Did I see a method posted recently for doing this in Photoshop? It
involved a couple of layers and de-linking them from the original
image.

In Photoshop you have "Merge to HDR Pro" where to process as a
32-bit file, you can merge two or more RAW files with an EV
variation, or an actual multi-exposure bracket. You will not get the
32-bit benefit if you try to do this with an 8-bit JPEG. Once you
have completed the "Merge to HDR Pro" select the option to complet
tone mapping in ACR. That is where the 32-bit editing is
accomplished. All of this is so much simpler and seamless in
Lightroom CC/6.

Yeah. I've gotten quite fond of LR6.

Note; in both PS and LR this only works properly with RAW files. The
results are not typical of the hideous over-saturated, and halo
ridden HDR images created in older HDR processors. They are
surprisingly normal with a truly increased dynamic range.

Thanks. I was thinking of a method using a single source image. I
recently scanned a number of old Kodachromes, and there were a couple
of mis-exposed ones I was hoping to bring back a bit. (I've already
tried a few techniques with limited success, and was hoping to try
HDR.)

--
Joe Makowiec
http://makowiec.org/
Email: http://makowiec.org/contact/?Joe
Usenet Improvement Project: http://twovoyagers.com/improve-usenet.org/

On 2015-07-04 12:23:52 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/4/2015 12:59 AM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jul 3, 2015, Savageduck wrote
(in article201507032059444107-savageduck1@REMOVESPAMmecom):

On 2015-07-04 03:20:21 +0000, said:

On 2015-07-04 02:23:09 +0000, said:

Le Snip

I was trying hand held. I know I should not have been too lazy to get a
tripod.

That depends on the actual exposure range. What was your bracket EV
interval for the 5 exposures?

I also want to test the ghost reduction.

Ghost reduction is only going to come into play with unwanted movement,
such as a bird flying through the bracket set. Then you have to select
one of the exposures as the "Ghost Removal Reference" shot and adjust
the Ghost removal strength appropriately.

It seems that you have a serious alignment problem whch the ghost
removal will not fix.

Does the tractor look blurry?

Very.

My solution would be to use Lightroom Photo Merge - HDR. See my prior
post or if you want more detailed help we can move this to email.

This might give you some idea of how I use Photo Merge -HDR in LR for
a single exposure. In the case of your bracket I would choose the 0 EV
and work with that in LR.
https://db.tt/nIuPyfxx

There seems to be something screwy with that DB link so I am gong to pull the
file and use CC instead.
http://adobe.ly/1f9SJdj

Thanks to all. I tried my own vairent of the Duck's suggestion. I used
a single image.
IUnitial processing in DXO and used smart lighting.

There is no variant to my suggestion. For this exercise forget about
DxO. Just import the files into LR and follow the directions I gave.
Use Lightroom's Photo Merge - HDR. If you want to tweak the tonality
then take the result into NIK Color Efex Pro 4.
Then make your B&W conversion with NIK Silver Efex Pro.

Exported to ACR, and made brought up the shadows a bit, and reduced
highlights a bit.
Converted to BW as above, . I then used NIK HDR Efex Pro 2, to the
single image. The image came out a bit flat for my taste, so I made a
levels adjustment to add some contrast.
I have the tonality just about where I want it. The result looks too
busy for my taste. If I decide the image is worth it, I will make
further adjustments to crop, & make the tractor the center of interest.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0107_DxO2.jpg

You are making things more complicated than they need to be. HDR is
easier in Lightroom than it has ever been in any other HDR processor
including NIK HDR Efex Pro.

--
Regards,

Savageduck

On 2015-07-04 12:25:49 +0000, Joe Makowiec said:

On 04 Jul 2015 in rec.photo.digital, Savageduck wrote:

On 2015-07-04 09:55:19 +0000, Joe Makowiec
said:

On 03 Jul 2015 in rec.photo.digital, Savageduck wrote:

This might give you some idea of how I use Photo Merge - HDR in
LR for a single exposure. In the case of your bracket I would
choose the 0 EV and work with that in LR.

Did I see a method posted recently for doing this in Photoshop? It
involved a couple of layers and de-linking them from the original
image.

In Photoshop you have "Merge to HDR Pro" where to process as a
32-bit file, you can merge two or more RAW files with an EV
variation, or an actual multi-exposure bracket. You will not get the
32-bit benefit if you try to do this with an 8-bit JPEG. Once you
have completed the "Merge to HDR Pro" select the option to complet
tone mapping in ACR. That is where the 32-bit editing is
accomplished. All of this is so much simpler and seamless in
Lightroom CC/6.

Yeah. I've gotten quite fond of LR6.

Note; in both PS and LR this only works properly with RAW files. The
results are not typical of the hideous over-saturated, and halo
ridden HDR images created in older HDR processors. They are
surprisingly normal with a truly increased dynamic range.

Thanks. I was thinking of a method using a single source image. I
recently scanned a number of old Kodachromes, and there were a couple
of mis-exposed ones I was hoping to bring back a bit. (I've already
tried a few techniques with limited success, and was hoping to try
HDR.)

Give it a try, but use a 16-bit TIFF of the scan, you have nothing to lose.

--
Regards,

Savageduck

On 7/3/2015 11:20 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-07-04 02:23:09 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/3/2015 10:13 PM, Bill W wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 21:56:11 -0400, PeterN
wrote:

This was a 5 exposure HDR, converted to BW. The HDR rendition and
the BW
conversion were done using NIK software. No other modifications were
made. I cannot undertand why the vertical post on the door is so
blurry,
compared to the ret of the image. What did I misss?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0105_HDR.jpg


Something appears to have gone very wrong. The whole image looks
blurry to me, but it looks like a multiple exposure in general. I
don't know if I'm seeing moire, or something else. Did the camera move
between exposures? Or did something else change? Did you use a tripod?

Then again, I'm sure others here will have a better analysis.

I was trying hand held. I know I should not have been too lazy to get
a tripod.

That depends on the actual exposure range. What was your bracket EV
interval for the 5 exposures?

I also want to test the ghost reduction.

Ghost reduction is only going to come into play with unwanted movement,
such as a bird flying through the bracket set. Then you have to select
one of the exposures as the "Ghost Removal Reference" shot and adjust
the Ghost removal strength appropriately.

It seems that you have a serious alignment problem whch the ghost
removal will not fix.

Yep. Hand held shots for HDR don't work for me. Not every experiment works.


Does the tractor look blurry?

Very.

My solution would be to use Lightroom Photo Merge - HDR. See my prior
post or if you want more detailed help we can move this to email.



Thanks, I used single image HDR as peviously described.

--
PeterN

On 7/3/2015 11:32 PM, Eric Stevens wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 21:56:11 -0400, PeterN
wrote:


This was a 5 exposure HDR, converted to BW. The HDR rendition and the BW
conversion were done using NIK software. No other modifications were
made. I cannot undertand why the vertical post on the door is so blurry,
compared to the ret of the image. What did I misss?


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0105_HDR.jpg

thanks

It's more than the post on the door that's blurry. There is an effect
I can best describe as a 'smearing' from upper left to bottom right in
an area which includes the door post, the bottom of the door and a
strip of grass across the entrance. Bonnet and grille on the tractor
has also been affected. Is it something to do with image alignment?

Were the images hand held or did you use a tripod?


Hand held.

--
PeterN

On 2015-07-04 12:48:28 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/3/2015 11:20 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-07-04 02:23:09 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/3/2015 10:13 PM, Bill W wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jul 2015 21:56:11 -0400, PeterN
wrote:

This was a 5 exposure HDR, converted to BW. The HDR rendition and
the BW
conversion were done using NIK software. No other modifications were
made. I cannot undertand why the vertical post on the door is so
blurry,
compared to the ret of the image. What did I misss?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0105_HDR.jpg


Something appears to have gone very wrong. The whole image looks
blurry to me, but it looks like a multiple exposure in general. I
don't know if I'm seeing moire, or something else. Did the camera move
between exposures? Or did something else change? Did you use a tripod?

Then again, I'm sure others here will have a better analysis.

I was trying hand held. I know I should not have been too lazy to get
a tripod.

That depends on the actual exposure range. What was your bracket EV
interval for the 5 exposures?

I also want to test the ghost reduction.

Ghost reduction is only going to come into play with unwanted movement,
such as a bird flying through the bracket set. Then you have to select
one of the exposures as the "Ghost Removal Reference" shot and adjust
the Ghost removal strength appropriately.

It seems that you have a serious alignment problem whch the ghost
removal will not fix.

Yep. Hand held shots for HDR don't work for me. Not every experiment works.


Does the tractor look blurry?

Very.

My solution would be to use Lightroom Photo Merge - HDR. See my prior
post or if you want more detailed help we can move this to email.

Thanks, I used single image HDR as peviously described.

I think that was not the way to go as you would not have a 32-bit DR.
You will only get that using some such as Photomatix or the LR method I
detailed. Just stop stubbornly hanging on to DxO. Import the NEFs into
LR and go from there.

Your result will be better. I could prove that.


--
Regards,

Savageduck

On 7/4/2015 8:37 AM, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-07-04 12:23:52 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/4/2015 12:59 AM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jul 3, 2015, Savageduck wrote
(in article201507032059444107-savageduck1@REMOVESPAMmecom):

On 2015-07-04 03:20:21 +0000,
said:

On 2015-07-04 02:23:09 +0000, said:

Le Snip

I was trying hand held. I know I should not have been too lazy to
get a
tripod.

That depends on the actual exposure range. What was your bracket EV
interval for the 5 exposures?

I also want to test the ghost reduction.

Ghost reduction is only going to come into play with unwanted
movement,
such as a bird flying through the bracket set. Then you have to select
one of the exposures as the "Ghost Removal Reference" shot and adjust
the Ghost removal strength appropriately.

It seems that you have a serious alignment problem whch the ghost
removal will not fix.

Does the tractor look blurry?

Very.

My solution would be to use Lightroom Photo Merge - HDR. See my prior
post or if you want more detailed help we can move this to email.

This might give you some idea of how I use Photo Merge -HDR in LR for
a single exposure. In the case of your bracket I would choose the 0 EV
and work with that in LR.
https://db.tt/nIuPyfxx

There seems to be something screwy with that DB link so I am gong to
pull the
file and use CC instead.
http://adobe.ly/1f9SJdj

Thanks to all. I tried my own vairent of the Duck's suggestion. I used
a single image.
IUnitial processing in DXO and used smart lighting.

There is no variant to my suggestion. For this exercise forget about
DxO. Just import the files into LR and follow the directions I gave. Use
Lightroom's Photo Merge - HDR. If you want to tweak the tonality then
take the result into NIK Color Efex Pro 4.
Then make your B&W conversion with NIK Silver Efex Pro.

Exported to ACR, and made brought up the shadows a bit, and reduced
highlights a bit.
Converted to BW as above, . I then used NIK HDR Efex Pro 2, to the
single image. The image came out a bit flat for my taste, so I made a
levels adjustment to add some contrast.
I have the tonality just about where I want it. The result looks too
busy for my taste. If I decide the image is worth it, I will make
further adjustments to crop, & make the tractor the center of interest.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0107_DxO2.jpg


You are making things more complicated than they need to be. HDR is
easier in Lightroom than it has ever been in any other HDR processor
including NIK HDR Efex Pro.


For this purpose it doesn't really matter if things are complicated. I
wanted to see how that image could be treated in DXO, which I ue for NR.
Had I initially used a tripod, I would not have learned that hand held
HDR is a bad idea. (At least for me.) I am still learning about pushing
the DR envelope on the D800.
Right now I am jpracticing patience as I wait for my wife to get herself
ready. Today is a perfect day for Longwood Gardens. It depends on
whether we can get there early enugh to get her a scooter. Otherwise
more Amish and we try for Longwood tomorrow.

--
PeterN

On 2015-07-04 13:05:03 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/4/2015 8:37 AM, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-07-04 12:23:52 +0000, PeterN said:

On 7/4/2015 12:59 AM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jul 3, 2015, Savageduck wrote
(in article201507032059444107-savageduck1@REMOVESPAMmecom):

On 2015-07-04 03:20:21 +0000,
said:

On 2015-07-04 02:23:09 +0000, said:

Le Snip

I was trying hand held. I know I should not have been too lazy to
get a tripod.

That depends on the actual exposure range. What was your bracket EV
interval for the 5 exposures?

I also want to test the ghost reduction.

Ghost reduction is only going to come into play with unwanted
movement,
such as a bird flying through the bracket set. Then you have to select
one of the exposures as the "Ghost Removal Reference" shot and adjust
the Ghost removal strength appropriately.

It seems that you have a serious alignment problem whch the ghost
removal will not fix.

Does the tractor look blurry?

Very.

My solution would be to use Lightroom Photo Merge - HDR. See my prior
post or if you want more detailed help we can move this to email.

This might give you some idea of how I use Photo Merge -HDR in LR for
a single exposure. In the case of your bracket I would choose the 0 EV
and work with that in LR.
https://db.tt/nIuPyfxx

There seems to be something screwy with that DB link so I am gong to
pull the file and use CC instead.
http://adobe.ly/1f9SJdj

Thanks to all. I tried my own vairent of the Duck's suggestion. I used
a single image.
IUnitial processing in DXO and used smart lighting.

There is no variant to my suggestion. For this exercise forget about
DxO. Just import the files into LR and follow the directions I gave. Use
Lightroom's Photo Merge - HDR. If you want to tweak the tonality then
take the result into NIK Color Efex Pro 4.
Then make your B&W conversion with NIK Silver Efex Pro.

Exported to ACR, and made brought up the shadows a bit, and reduced
highlights a bit.
Converted to BW as above, . I then used NIK HDR Efex Pro 2, to the
single image. The image came out a bit flat for my taste, so I made a
levels adjustment to add some contrast.
I have the tonality just about where I want it. The result looks too
busy for my taste. If I decide the image is worth it, I will make
further adjustments to crop, & make the tractor the center of interest.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97242118/20150703_Amish_0107_DxO2.jpg


You are making things more complicated than they need to be. HDR is
easier in Lightroom than it has ever been in any other HDR processor
including NIK HDR Efex Pro.


For this purpose it doesn't really matter if things are complicated. I
wanted to see how that image could be treated in DXO, which I ue for
NR. Had I initially used a tripod, I would not have learned that hand
held HDR is a bad idea. (At least for me.) I am still learning about
pushing the DR envelope on the D800.

You would be very surprised at how good the NR in LR CC/6 and ACR is.

As far as pushing the DR envelope with the D800, what are you using for
the EV interval for your 5 shot exposure bracket, and what is the total
EV range?
For example if you use a -2, -1, 0, +1, +2 interval you get a decent range.
Using the LR method with -3.00 and +3.00 I get a wider dynamic range
without having to shoot a bracket and worry about hand holding. I also
get the benefit of 32-bit adjustment and the full DR of the RAW file.
You don't get that from single image processing with NIK HDR Efex Pro.

....but obviously you are going to do things your way. I just suggest
you try my way as I detailed without introducing another factor such as
DxO.

Right now I am jpracticing patience as I wait for my wife to get
herself ready. Today is a perfect day for Longwood Gardens. It depends
on whether we can get there early enugh to get her a scooter. Otherwise
more Amish and we try for Longwood tomorrow.

Enjoy.
--
Regards,

Savageduck

On Sat, 4 Jul 2015 06:21:22 -0700, Savageduck
wrote:

You would be very surprised at how good the NR in LR CC/6 and ACR is.

As an owner of DXO, I agree with this. DXO is great, but not
necessarily any better than LR for NR. I've had different results
between the two with some photos, but nothing significant. The other
thing is that LR is much faster. (DXO has two types, the much better
one for RAW only, but the better one is the very slow one.)

I really did just love DXO, definitely worth the money, but LR/PS CC
seems to be good enough these days to make DXO redundant for most
things. I hate to admit that - it means I have wasted money.