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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
Hello!
I've been using a nice Minolta with Fuji ASA 100 film and a modest telephoto lens. I've occasionalyl gotten some very decent nature photos, but have had trouble getting the hnag of exposure times - and it costs more and more to develop "experiments". So I started think that it might be time for me to join the 21st century, and go digital. But to be honest, I'm totally bewildered by the myriad of choices, and the huge expense of the cameras that look like what I might want! I was trying to make my way through this site http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...al-SLR-Camera- Reviews.aspx but then thought, WHy don't I see whether tehre is a digital photo newsgroup where I might be able to get some basic guidance. So here I am. WHat I want to do is get highly crisp true-color photos of natural subjects, such as backlit grass, dragonflies, and the like, such as I've (sometimes) been able to get using the above non-digital combination, BUT it'd be nice to see the pic in advance, as can be done with digital cameras, and it'd be nice to not have to pay so much for "experimental" film shots (esp since the shops develop *everythign*, even the complete junk, since that's how they make their money). I've been *hoping* to get a digital camera that would use my Minolta lens and my Nikkon 55mm lens. What I definitely do not want is an "automated" thing that takes away my control over the photo, focuses eveythign in the center (as opposed to where *I* want the focus to be), and other such interferences. So I've been leery of "power shot" types or other types that sound like they are merely for taking nice little snapshots (as opposed to decent-quality photographs). At the same time, I cannot pay hundreds upon hundreds of dollars...so price is a consideration Oh yeah, I also am not concerned about it being able to take video, tho' I wouldn't reject that ability, either So, given all of that, could some kind soul perhaps direct this totally- confused newbie to a good starting place to look? Many Thanks in Advance! Kris K. |
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
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#3
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
"Charles" wrote in news:h0uk4r$iem$1
@news.eternal-september.org: http://porters.com/LENS%20COMPATIBILE.pdf Wow, That was fast! I'm thinking that mylenses won't do - they're early- 1970's vintage. So it's good to know that I can't jsut buy a camera body - that will save me some grief I saved that document for future reference. I'm also opening the website in a new window THanks! - Kris |
#4
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
"Kris Krieger" wrote in message ... "Charles" wrote in news:h0uk4r$iem$1 @news.eternal-september.org: http://porters.com/LENS%20COMPATIBILE.pdf Wow, That was fast! I'm thinking that mylenses won't do - they're early- 1970's vintage. So it's good to know that I can't jsut buy a camera body - that will save me some grief I saved that document for future reference. I'm also opening the website in a new window THanks! Kris, you are most welcome. It's always a good idea to build on what we already have and what we already know. As to modern digital SLRs, they are mostly all very good. I don't think you can go very far wrong. |
#5
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:07:29 -0500, Kris Krieger wrote:
I've been using a nice Minolta with Fuji ASA 100 film and a modest telephoto lens. I've occasionalyl gotten some very decent nature photos, but have had trouble getting the hnag of exposure times - and it costs more and more to develop "experiments". So I started think that it might be time for me to join the 21st century, and go digital. But to be honest, I'm totally bewildered by the myriad of choices, and the huge expense of the cameras that look like what I might want! I was trying to make my way through this site http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...al-SLR-Camera- Reviews.aspx but then thought, WHy don't I see whether tehre is a digital photo newsgroup where I might be able to get some basic guidance. So here I am. WHat I want to do is get highly crisp true-color photos of natural subjects, such as backlit grass, dragonflies, and the like, such as I've (sometimes) been able to get using the above non-digital combination, BUT it'd be nice to see the pic in advance, as can be done with digital cameras, and it'd be nice to not have to pay so much for "experimental" film shots (esp since the shops develop *everythign*, even the complete junk, since that's how they make their money). I've been *hoping* to get a digital camera that would use my Minolta lens and my Nikkon 55mm lens. For lens compatibility look to Nikon DSLRs for your 55mm Nikkor and Sony DSLRs for your Minolta lenses. Some here that are more familiar with Sony's products and may be able to say whether some lenses are more compatible than others. For the Nikkor, if it's an AutoFocus lens, you'll probably want to avoid the cheapest bodies since they don't have the in-body motor that is needed to focus screw-driven AF lenses. This means that you'd want to avoid the new D5000 as well as the very small D40, D40x and D60. Some older DSLRs that are still available as manufacturer refurbs are the D50, D70, D80 and D200. Some stores may still have a few new D200s, otherwise your choice would be between a new D90 or D300. By the way, all of these cameras have sensors smaller than a 35mm film frame (usually called DX sensors), so the images you'd get with 55mm Nikkor will appear magnified, more like what you'd get with an 82.5mm focal length lens on a film camera. Same for the Minolta lenses. The multiplier for Nikkor lenses is 1.5, and 1.6 for Canon's lenses. I don't know what the multiplier is for Sony DSLRs, but it's sure to be in this vicinity. Sony's A900 and Nikon's D3, D700 and D3x are exceptions, all having large sensors (called FX or Full Frame) that are the same size as your film SLRs, so there won't be any need for a focal length multiplier. Unfortunately, these tend to be much more expensive DSLR bodies. They're good for wide angle photography, such as landscapes, because a 20mm lens on an FX DSLR is very wide, what you'd expect from a 20mm lens on a film SLR. But it would be only slightly wide on a DX DSLR (30mm on Nikon, 32mm on Canon). On the other hand, a 300mm lens that might be desirable for some nature/wildlife photography would perform like a 450mm or 480mm lens on a DX DSLR, which is why most wildlife photographers prefer using DX DSLRs. What I definitely do not want is an "automated" thing that takes away my control over the photo, focuses eveythign in the center (as opposed to where *I* want the focus to be), and other such interferences. So I've been leery of "power shot" types or other types that sound like they are merely for taking nice little snapshots (as opposed to decent-quality photographs). That shouldn't be a problem with Nikon's DSLRs, even the cheapest. It's probably also true for Sony's DSLRs, but I'm not the person to ask about them. At the same time, I cannot pay hundreds upon hundreds of dollars...so price is a consideration Oh yeah, I also am not concerned about it being able to take video, tho' I wouldn't reject that ability, either Reject it. DSLR videos can be ok if you use a tripod, but for following moving subjects you'd be much better off with videos taken with much cheaper P&S cameras. So, given all of that, could some kind soul perhaps direct this totally- confused newbie to a good starting place to look? Here, for replies that others will provide, and DPReview's forums might be a better place. See http://www.dpreview.com/forums/ and check out these forums: Beginners Questions Nikon D90 - D40 / D5000 Nikon D300 - D100 Nikon SLR Lens Talk Sony SLR Talk as well as any others that may pique your interest. You don't have to register unless you want to post questions or replies. DPR also has very good full reviews of many DSLRs, and while they may seem overwhelming to some readers at first (there may be more than 30 pages per camera), with time and osmosis they'll eventually become very readable. Until then, don't miss the Conclusions page that's near the end of each "full" review. |
#6
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:07:29 -0500, Kris Krieger wrote:
Hello! I've been using a nice Minolta with Fuji ASA 100 film and a modest telephoto lens. I've occasionalyl gotten some very decent nature photos, but have had trouble getting the hnag of exposure times - and it costs more and more to develop "experiments". So I started think that it might be time for me to join the 21st century, and go digital. But to be honest, I'm totally bewildered by the myriad of choices, and the huge expense of the cameras that look like what I might want! I was trying to make my way through this site http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...al-SLR-Camera- Reviews.aspx but then thought, WHy don't I see whether tehre is a digital photo newsgroup where I might be able to get some basic guidance. So here I am. WHat I want to do is get highly crisp true-color photos of natural subjects, such as backlit grass, dragonflies, and the like, such as I've (sometimes) been able to get using the above non-digital combination, BUT it'd be nice to see the pic in advance, as can be done with digital cameras, and it'd be nice to not have to pay so much for "experimental" film shots (esp since the shops develop *everythign*, even the complete junk, since that's how they make their money). I've been *hoping* to get a digital camera that would use my Minolta lens and my Nikkon 55mm lens. What I definitely do not want is an "automated" thing that takes away my control over the photo, focuses eveythign in the center (as opposed to where *I* want the focus to be), and other such interferences. So I've been leery of "power shot" types or other types that sound like they are merely for taking nice little snapshots (as opposed to decent-quality photographs). At the same time, I cannot pay hundreds upon hundreds of dollars...so price is a consideration Oh yeah, I also am not concerned about it being able to take video, tho' I wouldn't reject that ability, either So, given all of that, could some kind soul perhaps direct this totally- confused newbie to a good starting place to look? Many Thanks in Advance! Kris K. Go with any of the excellent super-zoom P&S cameras (and ditch your old lenses that won't even have full functionality on any of the newer cameras). You can do all that you want with any of the super-zoom P&S models. Full manual control and much more. You'll wonder why you've waited so long. The convenience and adaptability of an all-in-one camera can't be beat. No more missed shots and you'll get your live-preview of exactly what you'll get on your final image at all times. (Not to mention high-quality video recording too.) Don't listen to the throngs dSLR-pushing trolls. They know not of what they speak. Here's a good example of how an inexpensive P&S super-zoom camera beats a new dSLR hands-down in resolution and chromatic aberration problems. http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Ca..._results.shtml In order to get the same image quality and zoom-reach (of the P&S camera) from that dSLR it would cost over $6,500 in lenses and an extra 20 lbs. in weight for the dSLR. This would include the cumbersome and heavy tripod to be able to use the longer-focal length lenses with it. I did the math. Since you've been shooting with ASA100 film all this time you won't even have need for ISO's (ASAs) above 400. That's the one and only thing that dSLRs are better at, at the great cost of their crippling smaller apertures on all longer dSLR lenses. The larger apertures at longer zoom settings on P&S cameras easily makes up for a dSLR's piddly higher ISO benefit. For your macro-photography needs there is no better choice than a P&S camera. You will finally be able to do hand-held available light macro photography without having to use a tripod and flash to get enough depth-of-field due to a stopped-down SLR lens. You also won't have to worry about all your photos being ruined because you got dust on your dSLR's sensor while out shooting and fumbling around swapping cumbersome lenses. This is the 21st century, it's time to ditch the outmoded concepts of the 1900's. The same way we ditched the wet-plates, flash-powders, and horse-drawn covered-wagon darkrooms before. It might take you a while to adapt and learn to use these newer cameras effectively but in the end the convenience and adaptability of them far outweighs what you've been doing all along. If you want even more control and features than any dSLR ever made, or will ever be made, check out any of the Canon P&S models supported by the free CHDK software add-on for them. http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page See this camera-features chart http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures for what new capabilities each model might have, beyond what was originally provided by the manufacturer. Some models support manual shutter speeds from 2048 seconds (and even longer in the extended "Factor" shutter-speed mode) to a record-breaking 1/40,000th second. With 100% accurate flash sync up to the highest speed. You're no longer limited and crippled by a focal-plane shutter's maximum 1/250th second X-Sync speed when trying to use flash to fill shadows in harsh sunlit conditions. They also have built-in motion detection for nature and lightning photography. Their shutter response times are fast enough to catch a lightning strike triggered from the pre-strike step-leader of a lightning event. One person even doing hand-held lightning photography during daylight this way. Using short shutter speeds and the built-in motion detection to trigger the shutter at the right time. That's never been done before in the history of photography. No need for a tripod and keeping the shutter open hoping for a random lightning event. Just hold the camera in the direction of the storm, composing your shot. The camera snaps off a frame only when there's an actual strike. Some of the more amazing uses of CHDK cameras have been lofting them in weather balloons into the upper atmosphere, running an internal intervalometer script to record the whole event. A dSLR's lenses and archaic mirror contraptions would freeze-up solid at those temperatures. Some images taken from so high that you can see the curvature of the earth. Kite-aerial photography is another popular use for CHDK cameras that run internal scripts. If still in doubt about what you can do with any of the 45+ models of CHDK equipped P&S cameras just browse a few pages of the 9,500+ "World's Best CHDK Photos" at this link: http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/chdk It'll change everything that you ever thought or knew about "power shot type" P&S cameras. |
#7
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:07:29 -0500, Kris Krieger
wrote: What I definitely do not want is an "automated" thing that takes away my control over the photo, focuses eveythign in the center (as opposed to where *I* want the focus to be), and other such interferences. So I've been leery of "power shot" types or other types that sound like they are merely for taking nice little snapshots (as opposed to decent-quality photographs). I know of no digital camera that focuses everything in the center. I have a low-end point-and-shoot that my wife uses and a dslr that I use. In both cases there is one or more focusing brackets in view. In both cases, if you focus on an object using in the focusing bracket, depress the shutter button half-way, and move the camera, the camera will retain the focus as set. In other words, you can focus using the center focus bracket and then move the camera to have what is in focus in the edge of your image. My dslr can be set to full manual. As far as I know, all dslrs are the same. -- Tony Cooper - Orlando, Florida |
#8
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
Matt Ion wrote:
Kris Krieger wrote: So, given all of that, could some kind soul perhaps direct this totally- confused newbie to a good starting place to look? [...] users over another... but at the end of the day, all of these cameras will give you great results and serve you well for years, and so it's important to have a camera that *YOU* enjoy using. If it feels awkward for *YOU* to handle, or the menus are confusing for *YOU* to navigate, or the controls are poorly-placed for *YOUR* hands, then you won't enjoy using it, and the camera is much more likely to simply sit on a shelf collecting dust, where all those arguments become moot. 100% ACK. This advise above it the most important factor. If the camera doesn't feel right for *YOU* then it is the wrong camera for you. jue |
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
Ignoring the dSLR-Trolls wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:07:29 -0500, Kris Krieger wrote: Dear Ignoring Would you mind keeping to a single ID? It becomes tiresome to killfile you over and over again. [...] So, given all of that, could some kind soul perhaps direct this totally- confused newbie to a good starting place to look? Go with any of the excellent super-zoom P&S cameras (and ditch your old lenses that won't even have full functionality on any of the newer cameras). Most old lenses will be fully functional on most newer cameras. Famous exceptions are e.g. non-AF-S lenses on entry-level Nikons or FD lenses on Canon EOS bodies. You can do all that you want with any of the super-zoom P&S models. [Rest of standard boiler plate drivel snipped] Yeah right, keep on dreaming. jue |
#10
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A newbie request help selecting digital camera
tony cooper wrote:
On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:07:29 -0500, Kris Krieger wrote: What I definitely do not want is an "automated" thing that takes away my control over the photo, focuses eveythign in the center (as opposed to where *I* want the focus to be), and other such interferences. So I've been leery of "power shot" types or other types that sound like they are merely for taking nice little snapshots (as opposed to decent-quality photographs). I know of no digital camera that focuses everything in the center. I have a low-end point-and-shoot that my wife uses and a dslr that I use. In both cases there is one or more focusing brackets in view. In both cases, if you focus on an object using in the focusing bracket, depress the shutter button half-way, and move the camera, the camera will retain the focus as set. In other words, you can focus using the center focus bracket and then move the camera to have what is in focus in the edge of your image. Furthermore most (all?) dSLRs allow you to select which focus area(s) should be taken into consideration by the camera. If you know that your subject will be in the upper right corner for the next 20 shots, then set the focus to the upper right corner. jue |
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