The Hacienda Cantayo

While in Peru recently I was offered the opportunity of spending a
weekend away from Lima down south in the Hacienda Cantayo. I'd heard
great stories about this enchanting hotel located on the outskirts of
Nazca, and so naturally I jumped on the invitation. Owing to the
famous and mysterious Geogylphic Lines located on the plains outside
the town, Nazca has grown to be rather popular with tourists and
hotels have been sprouting up around the area ever since I started
working in Peru. Of all the hotels in the area however, the Hacienda
Cantayo is easily the finest. Besides being exceptionally comfortable,
it has a number of subtle charms that give it a distinctive and
noteworthy character. So remarkable in fact is this little hacienda
that I've decided to dedicate this week's blog entry to its review.

Now, a few of you may remember an article I wrote a few months back
regarding flying from Lima to Ica and on to a flight over the lines
before returning back to Lima the same day. While this is still a very
credible travel option and highly recommendable for those pressed for
time, the Hacienda Cantayo makes the long and tedious bus ride very
worth your while.

Surrounded by the ubiquity of the Nazca plains, the Hacienda's
lackluster surrounding only adds to its charm. Now, I wouldn't go so
far as to claim the hotel is perfect because it's not. Like most
places it does have its flaws. Where the Cantayo however excels is in
its seemingly inane ability to put all its guests at complete ease. I
don't know whether this is due in some part to its old world charisma,
lavish comforts, or because of its oasis-like setting; but upon
walking through the Hacienda's heavy hardwood gates a sense of
tranquility melts you over. Something about the white washed walls and
the fresh scent of bougainvillea put one at complete ease; it's an
oddly comforting experience and feels strangely like déjà vu or maybe
a dream.

Whatever the reasons it became immediately apparent to me that the
hotel was a little more special than I'd been told. Arriving at dusk I
ambled through the outer corridors as I was shown to my room. I don't
know if this is just me - but a hotel room without a television is
something I've come to greatly admire. Traveling half way around the
world to sit and watch your favorite television shows just seems crass
and unimaginative to me. There is no room for that kind of behavior at
the Cantayo; the rooms, while very comfortable, are sparsely decorated
and functional. The idea I imagine is that - unless bathing, relaxing,
or romanticizing - the Hacienda's rooms essentially cater for sleeping
purposes. All other activities can be done elsewhere.

Following a look around my room I ventured out briefly onto the
grounds. I couldn't see very much of the gardens as the sun had
already set by this time. It seemed peaceful enough though and as I
walked out further passing over a few fences I could quite literally
feel my stress levels decreasing - that was until I tripped over an
ostrich. It was quite possibly the last thing I'd been expecting to
find in Peru, let alone trip over. The Hacienda Cantayo actually has a
whole flock of Ostriches (kept behind a fence ofcourse), and after the
poor bird and I had finished screaming at each other in dumb founded
shock, I noticed that Giant African birds were not the only animals
the Hacienda includes within its sanctuary. Llamas, alpacas, horses,
monkeys and an array or other animals live in a sectored off corner of
the grounds. By day they're a fantastic diversion for the kids, and at
night a bit of a hazard for those silly enough to walk into their
living area.

I returned to the Hacienda and bee-lined for the bar needing a little
something to dull both the shock of just having met the world's
largest bird, and the pain from having tripped over it. The barmen
cooked up a magnificent pisco sour and by the time my food had arrived
I'd settled down substantially and was falling back into the tranquil
hacienda groove. The food was much better than I'd expected - a prime
cut of Argentinean beef cooked to perfection in the Peruvian desert.
The restaurant itself has a great hacienda-like vibe to it, and with
saddles on the wall and a welcoming fireplace with some comfortable
looking sofas I felt very much at home.

Being close to the Nazca Lines, tours run straight from the hotel
directly to the airport - where passengers board a light aircraft for
their flight over the lines. I've flown over the lines enough times in
the past to know them fairly well. They still however hold a lot of
attraction and I never get bored seeing them again. Following the
flight I returned to lodge and spent the rest of the day lounging by
the hotel's phenomenal swimming pool. I believe this swimming pool has
actually featured on the cover of guidebooks. However, it's not the
sprawling pool waters as much as the giant ficus tree that towers
above it that serves as the main attraction. I spent the better part
of an afternoon lounging about beneath this amazing tree while
enjoying both the clear blue water and the hotel's excellent pool side
service.

The Hacienda Cantayo really is the perfect getaway for anyone
traveling to Nazca. A world within a world, the Cantayo serves as a
sanctuary and provides the type of comfort and service you'd expect
from a hotel in a 19th century novel. I was sad to leave on a Sunday
after breakfast and as I made my way back to Lima it began to dawn on
me how the Cantayo could just be one of the best hotel finds in the
country. I think I may be heading back there soon and strongly
encourage anyone traveling to Nazca to consider staying in this fine
establishment.

So long

Bart

http://bart-cat-travel.blogspot.com/

http://www.cat-travel.com