Purple cloud syndrome

On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear purple and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.

--

Regards,
Savageduck

On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear purple and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.


Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

On Jan 17, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

On Friday, 15 January 2016 10:42:46 UTC-5, peterN wrote:
On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear
purple
and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly
those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or
Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.

Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

Assuming no other colour is shifted by the change. Yes, you can change the
clouds to the right colour, but the rest of the image can be impacted.

Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close without
screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop.
Add an HSL adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest of the image
remains untouched.

There is a reason adjustment layers and layer masks exist.

--

Regards,
Savageduck

On 1/17/2016 6:43 PM, RichA wrote:
On Friday, 15 January 2016 10:42:46 UTC-5, peterN wrote:
On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear purple and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.


Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

Assuming no other colour is shifted by the change. Yes, you can change the clouds to the right colour, but the rest of the image can be impacted.


A switch to neutral gray should not adversely affect colors, unless you
have deliberately oversaturated, or otherwise manipulated the color.

--
PeterN

On 1/17/2016 7:29 PM, Tony Cooper wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 16:16:22 -0800, Savageduck
wrote:

On Jan 17, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

On Friday, 15 January 2016 10:42:46 UTC-5, peterN wrote:
On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear
purple
and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly
those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or
Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.

Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

Assuming no other colour is shifted by the change. Yes, you can change the
clouds to the right colour, but the rest of the image can be impacted.

Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close without
screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop.
Add an HSL adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest of the image
remains untouched.

That's good in theory, but difficult in practice. Where trees are in
the horizon, there are numerous tiny patches of sky peeking through.
Not impossible, but difficult.

You could make a selection, include non-contiguous areas.

Also see:
https://gregbenzphotography.com/luminosity-masking-tutorial/



There is a reason adjustment layers and layer masks exist.


--
PeterN

On Jan 17, 2016, Tony Cooper wrote
(in ):

On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 16:16:22 -0800, Savageduck
wrote:

On Jan 17, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

On Friday, 15 January 2016 10:42:46 UTC-5, peterN wrote:
On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear
purple
and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles
particularly
those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get
better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or
Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or
by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.

Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC
profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

Assuming no other colour is shifted by the change. Yes, you can change
the
clouds to the right colour, but the rest of the image can be impacted.

Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close without
screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop.
Add an HSL adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest of the
image
remains untouched.
That's good in theory, but difficult in practice. Where trees are in
the horizon, there are numerous tiny patches of sky peeking through.
Not impossible, but difficult.

The theory works, you just have to take problem areas into account when
masking. Not every horizon is clean, you have to work with what you have in
hand. Sometimes it is best to make a selection for the adjustment layer to
work on, being careful to refine those edges with appropriate feathering.


There is a reason adjustment layers and layer masks exist.



--

Regards,
Savageduck

On 1/17/2016 8:45 PM, Tony Cooper wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 19:54:48 -0500, PeterN
wrote:

On 1/17/2016 7:29 PM, Tony Cooper wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 16:16:22 -0800, Savageduck
wrote:

On Jan 17, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

On Friday, 15 January 2016 10:42:46 UTC-5, peterN wrote:
On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear
purple
and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly
those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or
Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.

Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

Assuming no other colour is shifted by the change. Yes, you can change the
clouds to the right colour, but the rest of the image can be impacted.

Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close without
screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop.
Add an HSL adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest of the image
remains untouched.

That's good in theory, but difficult in practice. Where trees are in
the horizon, there are numerous tiny patches of sky peeking through.
Not impossible, but difficult.

You could make a selection, include non-contiguous areas.

Also see:
https://gregbenzphotography.com/luminosity-masking-tutorial/

I know how to make selections, Peter. I'm rather good at layer masks.
What I'm saying is that it is very difficult to do it effectively with
a skyline of trees with hundreds of openings. Most of the time, the
photo isn't worth the effort.

I'm comfortable that you know how to make basic selections. From your
posting, it was not clear to me that you had not overlooked some
techniques for selecting non-contiguous areas, as the portions of sky
showing through leaves. I agree that such selections can sometimes be
tricky, which is why I posted a link to luminosity masking, which is one
technique, that once learned, can be effective. And yes, that is not the
only technique.




There is a reason adjustment layers and layer masks exist.


--
PeterN

In article , Tony Cooper wrote:

Savageduck:
Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close
without screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop. Add an HSL
adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest
of the image remains untouched.

That's good in theory, but difficult in practice. Where trees are in
the horizon, there are numerous tiny patches of sky peeking through.
Not impossible, but difficult.

Photoshop has many tools to help you out there, such as color selection, making
masking such areas quite easy. I.e. a lot easier than doing it by hand.

--
Sandman

On 1/18/2016 12:22 AM, Tony Cooper wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 21:17:36 -0500, PeterN
wrote:

On 1/17/2016 8:45 PM, Tony Cooper wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 19:54:48 -0500, PeterN
wrote:

On 1/17/2016 7:29 PM, Tony Cooper wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jan 2016 16:16:22 -0800, Savageduck
wrote:

On Jan 17, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

On Friday, 15 January 2016 10:42:46 UTC-5, peterN wrote:
On 1/14/2016 5:53 PM, Savageduck wrote:
On Jan 14, 2016, RichA wrote
(in ):

You see it all the time. Rather than grey and white, clouds appear
purple
and
white, or b

That is an issue with certain Camera Calibration Profiles particularly
those
which add a saturation or vividity punch. Invariably you will get better
results if you start off with an Adobe Standard, Camera Neutral, or
Camera
Standard calibration. It is fixable using an HSL adjustment layer, or by
making similar adjustments in whatever RAW processor you use.

Assuming the monitor is properly calibrated, and the correct ICC profile
is being used, it can be easily corrected by setting a neutral gray
point, in whatever processor is being used.

--
PeterN

Assuming no other colour is shifted by the change. Yes, you can change the
clouds to the right colour, but the rest of the image can be impacted.

Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close without
screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop.
Add an HSL adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest of the image
remains untouched.

That's good in theory, but difficult in practice. Where trees are in
the horizon, there are numerous tiny patches of sky peeking through.
Not impossible, but difficult.

You could make a selection, include non-contiguous areas.

Also see:
https://gregbenzphotography.com/luminosity-masking-tutorial/

I know how to make selections, Peter. I'm rather good at layer masks.
What I'm saying is that it is very difficult to do it effectively with
a skyline of trees with hundreds of openings. Most of the time, the
photo isn't worth the effort.

I'm comfortable that you know how to make basic selections.

Basic? I'll match your skills in this anytime.

Untwist your knockers. I should have said "at least basic." Obviously I
have no real knowledge of your skills, just as all you know about my
skills is what I choose to show.




From your
posting, it was not clear to me that you had not overlooked some
techniques for selecting non-contiguous areas, as the portions of sky
showing through leaves. I agree that such selections can sometimes be
tricky, which is why I posted a link to luminosity masking, which is one
technique, that once learned, can be effective. And yes, that is not the
only technique.

There is a reason adjustment layers and layer masks exist.

Of course there is. My point is that effecting color change by Layer
Masking can be a tedious process with some images, and some just
aren't worth the effort.

The image in your tutorial above would be an easy-peasy project. You
have four easy holes to deal with, and a huge area of sharply defined
edges. In that image I wouldn't even attempt to deal with the
scaffolding. Take it out. It should taken out regardless of the sky
color.


It was intended only as a demonstration. One common teaching technique
is to demonstrate the technique at a simple level, to make it easy for
students to follow. One can then apply the procedure to more complex
situation.


Some images present little or no problems. Some images are more
difficult. There's a point at which the effort isn't worth it no
matter what technique is used. Not for the people in this group,
anyway. It's not like we're working on images that will bring in
thousands in stock image sales.


And I too believe in apple pie.Interesting that you said that. A stock
house asked for a bunch of my images, that he thinks will sell. I am not
sure i want to do it, as then photography would become work.



--
PeterN

On 1/18/2016 12:54 AM, Sandman wrote:
In article , Tony Cooper wrote:

Savageduck:
Start with a calibrated display.

Make whatever adjustments with the RAW processor to get close
without screwing up the entire image.

Open processed RAW in editor, in my case Photoshop. Add an HSL
adjustment layer with a layer mask, make the tweaks. Then with a
soft brush, paint in the adjustment where it is needed. The rest
of the image remains untouched.

That's good in theory, but difficult in practice. Where trees are in
the horizon, there are numerous tiny patches of sky peeking through.
Not impossible, but difficult.

Photoshop has many tools to help you out there, such as color selection, making
masking such areas quite easy. I.e. a lot easier than doing it by hand.


Yep!


--
PeterN