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#111
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Getting that film look
On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 04:25:28 GMT, no_name
wrote: [snip] What part of "OTOH, orbital distance has a lot less effect on summer/winter temperatures than inclination of earth's axis." didn't you understand? no_name, didn't mean to offend but your post started off with this... Earth's orbit is an ellipse. The earth IS closer to the sun when it's summer IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE. Also helps to account for why southern hemisphere winters are generally milder that norhtern hemisphere winters. Which is wrong (the Earth is closest to the Sun in January so the Southern hemisphere actually get hotter summers and colder winters than the Northern hemisphere). So I naturally jumped on the rest of what you wrote without reading too carefully! -- Kulvinder Singh Matharu Website : www.metalvortex.com Contact : www.metalvortex.com/form/form.htm "It ain't Coca Cola, it's rice", Straight to Hell - The Clash |
#112
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Getting that film look
On Wed, 21 Dec 2005 15:51:45 +0900, "David J. Littleboy"
wrote: "Scott W" wrote: I shot 35mm for over twenty years, now I really wish I shot MF instead. I started out with MF and never could understand 35mm... I see both points of view. Until a few years ago I shot very little MF... just enough to know it was there, and better. But I've had scores of 35 mm photos published -- mostly in high-school yearbooks, a few more in academic magazines, etc. 35 mm gear feels right in my hands. At work I walk by a calender of Galen Rowell photos. IIRC, he was a Nikon man. Ditto Art Wolfe, et. al. I often wish those shots had been done with MF or LF, but that's pretty silly of me. Mostly I wish I had the innate sense of place and of composition that these guys had. 35 is good for dealing with fast-moving targets and of people, using available light. I can't visualize Cartier-Bresson without also seeing the Leica. Amazing history from the 20th century was captured on 35 mm. Bourke-White. Capa, and on and on. (And lots of history on Crown Graphics also.) Speaking of which, was there ever a favorite MF camera for news-hounds? Did beat photographers ever use MF? rafe b www.terrapinphoto.com |
#113
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Getting that film look
Scott,
I sent you a personal email to your hotmail account on a different subject, but then it occurred to me that you may never read it because hotmail accounts get filled with spam. If that is not a good way to contact you, please email me another address if that is OK with you. Roger |
#114
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Getting that film look
rafe b wrote:
Speaking of which, was there ever a favorite MF camera for news-hounds? Did beat photographers ever use MF? The Rolleiflex TLR, of course! |
#115
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Getting that film look
Roger N. Clark (change username to rnclark) wrote: Scott, I sent you a personal email to your hotmail account on a different subject, but then it occurred to me that you may never read it because hotmail accounts get filled with spam. If that is not a good way to contact you, please email me another address if that is OK with you. Roger Got it, a reply should be there by now. I only check the hotmail account once or twice a week. Sadly the hotmail account get far less spam then my regular email account. Scott |
#116
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Getting that film look
David J. Littleboy wrote:
Maybe. So far, looking at the samples and at things in galleries, I'm perfectly happy with A4 to hand people and 13x19 for walls. Larger quality prints are wonderful, but the desire to make them myself isn't there. I find myself creeping up on print size. If I print a photo as a 4 x 6 it has very little impact, it is far too small. If I print the same photo as a 8 x 12 and hand these to people it make a much larger impact. But I am finding that handing them a 12 x 18 has far more impact yet. Just a few years ago I would have said that the largest prints I would have been interested in would be 8 x 10s. For now I am pretty happy with 12 x 18 prints, they are cheap and not hard to handle, but I can well imaging 5 to 10 years from now printing out more 20 x 30 prints. There is something about viewing a large print close that gives you the feeling of being there, if of course the photo has the needed resolution. So for now I find I am shooting, at times, with far more resolution then the prints I am currently having made need. Scott |
#117
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Getting that film look
Scott W wrote:
I find myself creeping up on print size. If I print a photo as a 4 x 6 it has very little impact, it is far too small. If I print the same photo as a 8 x 12 and hand these to people it make a much larger impact. But I am finding that handing them a 12 x 18 has far more impact yet. Just a few years ago I would have said that the largest prints I would have been interested in would be 8 x 10s. For now I am pretty happy with 12 x 18 prints, they are cheap and not hard to handle, but I can well imaging 5 to 10 years from now printing out more 20 x 30 prints. There is something about viewing a large print close that gives you the feeling of being there, if of course the photo has the needed resolution. You might try, as a start, investing in some really good prime lenses... |
#118
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Getting that film look
Chris Loffredo wrote:
Scott W wrote: I find myself creeping up on print size. If I print a photo as a 4 x 6 it has very little impact, it is far too small. If I print the same photo as a 8 x 12 and hand these to people it make a much larger impact. But I am finding that handing them a 12 x 18 has far more impact yet. Just a few years ago I would have said that the largest prints I would have been interested in would be 8 x 10s. For now I am pretty happy with 12 x 18 prints, they are cheap and not hard to handle, but I can well imaging 5 to 10 years from now printing out more 20 x 30 prints. There is something about viewing a large print close that gives you the feeling of being there, if of course the photo has the needed resolution. You might try, as a start, investing in some really good prime lenses... Good lenses can only take you so far. My favorite lens is a 50mm 1.8. The 1.4 has little interest since I normally shoot at f/16 to f/22 or so in order to get a good DOF. I will stitch 40 to 80 of these together and get a photo in the range of 80 to 150 MP. Getting a good 80MP photo with LF (4 x 5) is not all that easy and just not possible at all with a MF camera. Others do much more with stitching then I do, there are any number of 500 MP photos a few 1000 MP and at least one 2500 MP photo. Photoshop Elements starts to get pretty slow when dealing with photos much over 100MP so this seems to be a good size for now. I can downsample when stitching so that in a few years I can go back to the same source images and stitch a larger photo if I wish to. This is a 100MP photo I did using the 50mm 1.8, this was a test photo inside, this is a good test since parallax is much more of a problem when photographing in a room rather then landscape type photos outside. http://www.sewcon.com/temp/100MPphoto_HC.jpg I use high compression on this so it only takes 11 MB as a jpeg. Not a bad photo for a $70 lens. Scott |
#119
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Getting that film look
Scott W wrote:
Chris Loffredo wrote: Scott W wrote: I find myself creeping up on print size. If I print a photo as a 4 x 6 it has very little impact, it is far too small. If I print the same photo as a 8 x 12 and hand these to people it make a much larger impact. But I am finding that handing them a 12 x 18 has far more impact yet. Just a few years ago I would have said that the largest prints I would have been interested in would be 8 x 10s. For now I am pretty happy with 12 x 18 prints, they are cheap and not hard to handle, but I can well imaging 5 to 10 years from now printing out more 20 x 30 prints. There is something about viewing a large print close that gives you the feeling of being there, if of course the photo has the needed resolution. You might try, as a start, investing in some really good prime lenses... Good lenses can only take you so far. My favorite lens is a 50mm 1.8. The 1.4 has little interest since I normally shoot at f/16 to f/22 or so in order to get a good DOF. I will stitch 40 to 80 of these together and get a photo in the range of 80 to 150 MP. Getting a good 80MP photo with LF (4 x 5) is not all that easy and just not possible at all with a MF camera. Others do much more with stitching then I do, there are any number of 500 MP photos a few 1000 MP and at least one 2500 MP photo. Photoshop Elements starts to get pretty slow when dealing with photos much over 100MP so this seems to be a good size for now. I can downsample when stitching so that in a few years I can go back to the same source images and stitch a larger photo if I wish to. This is a 100MP photo I did using the 50mm 1.8, this was a test photo inside, this is a good test since parallax is much more of a problem when photographing in a room rather then landscape type photos outside. http://www.sewcon.com/temp/100MPphoto_HC.jpg I use high compression on this so it only takes 11 MB as a jpeg. Not a bad photo for a $70 lens. I'm not speaking of giant stitching operations, but single shots. You might find that a first-rate lens can really improve your images (at least technically). With such a lens, you might even find that you like film! ; ) Do you really believe that a one-billion pixel digital camera with a cr*p zoom will give you better quality than (your much hated - did your father invent Kodachrome, or something - just wondering) a fine grain film with an excellent lens? Reality is simple: Cr*p in, cr*p out... Digital is not magic; what the lens doesn't catch, isn't there (unless you re-create everything in Photoshop). |
#120
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Getting that film look
Chris Loffredo wrote:
I'm not speaking of giant stitching operations, but single shots. You might find that a first-rate lens can really improve your images (at least technically). With such a lens, you might even find that you like film! ; ) If I was to ever shoot film again it would MF. But that would be a pretty large investment, not just the camea but about $1500 for a scanning that can do a good job scanning the MF film. Do you really believe that a one-billion pixel digital camera with a cr*p zoom will give you better quality than (your much hated - did your father invent Kodachrome, or something - just wondering) a fine grain film with an excellent lens? I liked Kodachrome a lot when I was shooting film. I still like it because slide from over 20 years ago still look good and are some of my sharpest scans. a one-billion pixel camrea would need a very good lens indeed, but then I don't try and get all the pixels in one shot. I know this is not for everyone, or even very many people but for me it is what works. Reality is simple: Cr*p in, cr*p out... Digital is not magic; what the lens doesn't catch, isn't there (unless you re-create everything in Photoshop). You seem to not want to allow me to stitch in all of this, this would be somewhat like me trying to demand that you use ISO 800 or higher film. We all have our methods of working. For me stitching is pretty magical, I can take 4 quick photos hand helded and stitch them to produce a sharp 20MP photo. This gives me a very sharp 12 x 18 inch print, something that I can't get with either a single shot from my digital or film camera. With my panoramic head I can capture the photos needed for a 100MP photo in less then a minute. I don't expect many people to want to stitch photos to get higher resolution but then the percentage of people who really care about high resolution is very small. Don't take this wrong, I shot 35mm for years, but if you only are shooting 35mm you don't really care much about resolution. You might want to get the most out of your equipment and there is nothing wrong with that but 35mm is very limited in what it can do. But for what most people want to do either 35mm or digital will do just fine and either can take great photos, but not what I would call high resolution. Scott |
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