DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia) 1939

April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website: www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________


[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]


DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

"Lloyd Erlick" Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote in
message news
April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website: www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________


[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]


DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

One can get a similar effect by using Potassium
Ferricyanide bleach and in normal Sepia toning. The bleach
affects the size and shape of the silver crystals so that
they are sometimes more warm toned after redevelopment but
the effect depends on the emulsion. One great drawback to
this method is that the final image is metallic silver so it
is not protected from oxidation as is the silver sulfide
image from the usual sulfide toning.
If split tones are desired they can be gotten by partial
bleaching in normal Sepia toner. The darker parts of the
image will retain a lot of silver so will be toned less than
the highlights. Interesting effects can be gotten by a
subsequent toning in a "direct" toner, for instance two
shades of Brown. Also, a sulfide image treated in a Gold
toner will turn some shade of red. So, if a partially toned
image is treated in Gold the highlights will become red or
reddish brown and the shadows will become blue. Since both
sulfide and Gold are effective in protecting the image such
a split toned image will be quite permanent although a
final fixing step is probably a good idea.
Note that using a Bichromate bleach followed by
redevelopment in a standard, active, developer is
essentially the same as chrome intensifier.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

"Lloyd Erlick" Lloyd at @the-wire. dot com wrote in
message news
April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website: www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________


[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]


DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

An addendum: the chromic acid bleach will leave a stain
which can be cleared by treating the print in a bath of
Sodium Sulfite and subsequent washing. Kodak Hypo Clearing
Agent, perhaps a little stronger than normal working
solution, will work fine as a clearing bath.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website:www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________

[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]

DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

That is a bleach without the bromide. The bleach can be done
with the more usual ferricyanide although the end results are not
likely the exact same. With the later the compound created is silver
ferrocyanide; with the acid ?. With both and carried out with the
lights
on, either of the silver compounds are ready for a developer or a
sulfide
or some other intermediate treatment.
Now days, IIRC, some dichromate would be used although for "two
shades of different browns" the acid may be needed. Dan

April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website:www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________

[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]

DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

That is a bleach without the bromide. The bleach can be done
with the more usual ferricyanide although the end results are not
likely the exact same. With the later the compound created is silver
ferrocyanide; with the acid ?. With both and carried out with the
lights
on, either of the silver compounds are ready for a developer or a
sulfide
or some other intermediate treatment.
Now days, IIRC, some dichromate would be used although for "two
shades of different browns" the acid may be needed. Dan

wrote in message
ups.com...
April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website:www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________

[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]

DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

That is a bleach without the bromide. The bleach can be
done
with the more usual ferricyanide although the end results
are not
likely the exact same. With the later the compound created
is silver
ferrocyanide; with the acid ?. With both and carried out
with the
lights
on, either of the silver compounds are ready for a
developer or a
sulfide
or some other intermediate treatment.
Now days, IIRC, some dichromate would be used although
for "two
shades of different browns" the acid may be needed. Dan


I don't exactly know what this ancient book means by
"chromic acid". A dichromate bleach made with Hydrochloric
acid will convert the silver to Silver Chloride, which can
be redeveloped. This is in fact Chromium intensifier. Of
course, the image could be redeveloped in Sodium Sulfide
resulting in a silver sulfide image the same as conventional
Sepia toner, but likely of a different shade. Chromium
intensifier is simple, here, for example, is Kodak In-4

Kodak In-4 Chromium Intensifier Stock Solution
Potassium Bichromate 90.0 grams
Hydrochloric Acid 64.0 ml
Water to make 1.0 liter

For use dilute one part stock to 10 parts water.
The negative should be hardened in a Formaldehyde hardener
before treatment.
Treat the negative until the image is completely bleached
out. Then wash for 5 minutes. Then redevelop in strong
artificial light or daylight in a rapidly acting, low
sulfite, developer. Dektol or D-72 diluted 1:3 is a good
choice. Full redevelopment may take 10 minutes. Then rinse
and fix for 5 minutes. Then wash thoroughly. The process can
be repeated.
Images resulting from Chromium intensification may not be
completely permanent.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

Is the the same stuff named in
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0138.html ?
I was interested in giving it a try, until I read the cautions!
Or am I just a worrier?
D

wrote in message
oups.com...
April 28, 2007, from Lloyd Erlick,

I've been looking at my stash of boxed up old
books ... (no guarantees that this formula
works on current materials, or ever did, for
that matter) ...

regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
website:www.heylloyd.com
telephone: 416-686-0326
email:
________________________________

[from "Fortunes in Formulas" by Hiscox and
Sloane, Norman Henley Publishing, 1937-1939.]

DOUBLE TONING (Dual Sepia):

Here is a toner that will give two shades of
different browns in the one picture, and the
effect is very pleasing.

Make a solution of one-half ounce chromic
acid in 10 ounces water. Place the print in
this solution until it nearly fades out
(about a minute or so). Wash the print in
running water and then place the print in
ordinary film developer (M.Q.) and redevelop
back to visibility.

This formula takes the place of the old time
sulphide print for rich browns. Unlike the
old time sulphide process the above is
odorless and less liable to produce insoluble
stains.

That is a bleach without the bromide. The bleach can be done
with the more usual ferricyanide although the end results are not
likely the exact same. With the later the compound created is silver
ferrocyanide; with the acid ?. With both and carried out with the
lights
on, either of the silver compounds are ready for a developer or a
sulfide
or some other intermediate treatment.
Now days, IIRC, some dichromate would be used although for "two
shades of different browns" the acid may be needed. Dan

"David Kuss" wrote in message
...
Is the the same stuff named in
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0138.html ?
I was interested in giving it a try, until I read the
cautions!
Or am I just a worrier?
D
I am rather skeptical of the formulas in _Fortunes in
Formulas_, many are very old and use non-standard
terminology and may be sloppy about chemical names. I
suspect the substance used in the formula posted is
Potassium dichromate, there is an MSDS for this at:
http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/p5719.htm
Its no safer than Chromic acid. Potassium dichromate is
used for a number of photographic purposes, for instance,
tray cleaner, a bleach to remove metallic silver but not
undeveloped halide (as in reversal processing), and as a
senstizer for processes like Carbon and gum that depend on
differential hardening. It can be used for toners but one
can get similar results with much safer materials. If you
want to double tone one simple way is to use conventional
"Sepia" toner removing the print from the bleach before
bleaching is complete. This will leave the darker areas
untoned. You can subsequently tone them in another type of
toner. For instance, a Gold toner will tone the Sepia part
red and the silver part blue. Other toners, like Liver of
Sulfur (Kodak Brown Toner), or Selenium toner (Kodak Rapid
Selenium Toner) will tone the silver part some other shade
of brown than the Sepia part. There are many other
variations.
A good source for information are Tim Rudman's books,
_The Photographer's Master Printing Course_ and _The
Photographer's Toning Book_. You might also want to look at
his book on lith printing. This is an application of
lithographic developers to printing paper which produces
interesting effects which can not be duplicated any other
way.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA