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Hasselblad Clarification



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 4th 05, 10:07 AM
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Default Hasselblad Clarification

I'm building a new V Series Hasselblad kit, but I can't find the
differences in some of the lines. Particularly, I'm considering either
the 500CM, 501C, or 501CM body, and either the 80mmCB, 80mmCF, or
80mmCFE lens.

Obviously, the 501CM and 80mmCFE are the most expensive, and I realize
that they must offer some improvements, but do they justify the extra
cost?

Are there any other Hasselblad bodies or normal lenses that I should
consider instead of the above choices?

Thanks in advance for all of your help,

Will

  #2  
Old November 4th 05, 04:23 PM
Q.G. de Bakker
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Default Hasselblad Clarification

wrote:

I'm building a new V Series Hasselblad kit, but I can't find the
differences in some of the lines. Particularly, I'm considering either
the 500CM, 501C, or 501CM body, and either the 80mmCB, 80mmCF, or
80mmCFE lens.

Obviously, the 501CM and 80mmCFE are the most expensive, and I realize
that they must offer some improvements, but do they justify the extra
cost?

Are there any other Hasselblad bodies or normal lenses that I should
consider instead of the above choices?


Well, there are the 500 C (rather old, no interchangeable focussing
screens), the 503 CX (a 500 C/M with TTL flash control), the 503 CXi (a 503
CX that takes the Winder CW, and has a brighter, Acute Matte focussing
screen), and the current 503 CW (a 503 CXi that has a larger, non-vignetting
mirror).

Then, if you would like a motorized body, there are the 500 EL, 500 EL/M
(EL with interchangeable focussing screens), the 500 ELX (EL/M with larger,
non-vignetting mirror and TTL flash control), the 553 ELX (500 ELX with
brighter, Acute Matte focussing screen and AA-batteries instead of the large
accus), and the 555 ELD (a 553 ELX with electronic interface for digital
backs, and able of taking an IR remote control unit).

If you like to have a choice of shutter, you can look into the focal plane
shutter models: 2000 FC (best avoided, because of shutter curtain troubles),
the 2000 FC/M (FC with shutter retraction feature, offering protection of
the shutter curtains), the 2000 FCW (FC/M that works completeky battery
independent when used with leaf shutter lenses, and will take Winder F), and
the 2003 FCW (FCW with brigher, Acute Matte focussing screen).

But if you do like focal plane shutters, but not the vulnerable metal foil
type, you can get the 201 F (FCW, with cloth shutter, TTL flash control, and
slower top speed: 1/1000).
If you like built-in meters, and some degree of exposure automation in your
cloth focal plan shutter camera, you can get the 205 TCC or 205 FCC (AE with
built-in spot meter, and Zone-mode), or a 203 FE (center weighed meter, no
Zone mode), or even 202 FA (only automatic, not able to use leaf shutters in
eaf shutter lenses).

Perhaps you will not be looking for te FlexBody (non-reflex, some movements)
or ArcBody (non-relfex, some movements, Rodenstock lenses).

All of them (except the now very old 500 C, 500 EL and 2000 FC and perhaps
2000 FC/M) are worth considering... ;-)

The 500 C/M was the central part of the Hasselblad system for a long while.
It's main shortcoming is the too-short mirror, which causes vignetting in
the viewfinder (a small upper part of the viewfinder image appears dark when
leses longer than 100 mm are used, or when extension is added).
It still has the body ready signal (a window signalling the state, wound or
unwound, of the camera), and the shutter release locking lever (which locks
the release button when pressed, so you do nit need to keep your finger on
it, or a locking cable release, when doing long exposures, or when using the
self-timer in C-lenses).

The 501 C basically is a 500 C/M, but with fixed wind crank, new style
release button (thicker, but no longer lockable), no body-ready signal, and
new style tripod quick release plate underneath.

The 501 CM is a 501 C, but with larger, non-vignetting mirror.

Of all of the differences between 500 C/M, 501 C and 501 CM, the longer
mirror is the only really important one.
You can lock the shutter open using a locking cable release, so the locking
lever is not missed much.
You can check the body-state by a quick look in the viewfinder (non of these
three have quick-return mirrors, nor will the shutter in the lens be open
until you rewind the thing) so the body-ready signal is not missed much
either.

So of the three, all other things being equal, i'd recommend the 501 CM.


Now 80 mm lenses.
The CB lens is not as good as the other standard lenses. Not by much, but it
just isn't.

All other (except the very earliest C-lenses) are the same optical design.
No optical improvements!
The CFE lens has Databus contacts, meant to transfer aperture information to
the 200-series (202, 203, 205) metering electronics. You do not need that in
any of the three.
The CF is a perfectly good lens, but samples of which may already be over 20
years old. So watch for condition.


  #3  
Old November 5th 05, 03:09 AM
Joseph Burke
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Default Hasselblad Clarification

As someone has explained the differences in the prevoius post then consider
your needs.
My first Hasselblad was a 501CM Kit with the 80 mm CB lens (standard at
that time!!). The CB is supposedly a less expensive lens BUT I doubt it will
disappoint you in performance--It is a great lens. Actually my favorite lens
is my 100 mm Planar---very, very sharp!! Gave $400 for it used in black "C"
T* configuration. I highly recommend it as a standard lens, second is my 60
mm Distagon----I have a 50 mm Distagon as well but the 60 mm suits my needs
best and lastly the fabulous 150 mm (CFi version)--a terrific lens though
some rate the 180 mm as being a better performer--to each his own as the 150
is one fine portrait lens but then again a 120 mm is great too (I have that
one too!)!!
So consider the 100 mm as an option as you'll never regret it!!
As for the 501 C/M it is a fine camera but I have a 503 CX as well for
the TTL flash control (if you desire that feature) and really like my D-40
as my primary and a Metz unit as well using the TTL.
Lots of choices as Hasselblad pricing is MUCH MUCH better now for used
products than it was 5 years ago--It's a buyers market!!

wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm building a new V Series Hasselblad kit, but I can't find the
differences in some of the lines. Particularly, I'm considering either
the 500CM, 501C, or 501CM body, and either the 80mmCB, 80mmCF, or
80mmCFE lens.

Obviously, the 501CM and 80mmCFE are the most expensive, and I realize
that they must offer some improvements, but do they justify the extra
cost?

Are there any other Hasselblad bodies or normal lenses that I should
consider instead of the above choices?

Thanks in advance for all of your help,

Will



  #4  
Old November 5th 05, 09:17 AM
Q.G. de Bakker
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Default Hasselblad Clarification

Joseph Burke wrote:

As someone has explained the differences in the prevoius post then

consider
your needs.


Indeed.
I would like to add that considering the differences in sharpness between
Hasselblad lenses, and those in focal lengths, the differences in focal
length are more important.
An extremely sharp lens may be sharper than an very sharp lens, but will be
no good if everytime you take it out of the kit bag, you hate how it is just
too long or too short.
So choose the lens for its focal length only.


  #5  
Old November 5th 05, 10:23 PM
Joseph Burke
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Default Hasselblad Clarification

"Indeed.
I would like to add that considering the differences in sharpness between
Hasselblad lenses, and those in focal lengths, the differences in focal
length are more important.
An extremely sharp lens may be sharper than an very sharp lens, but will

be
no good if everytime you take it out of the kit bag, you hate how it is

just
too long or too short.
So choose the lens for its focal length only.""


Well written and very true- the 80 mm will likely serve best and a CB
version is a fine lens---Hasselblad has no bad glass !! Actually when just
using an 80 millimeter i tend to use my RolleiFlex 3,5 Planar---I guess that
explains my use of the 100 mm on the Hasselblad ----And yes the RolleiFlex
is a fine camera too--I tend to take it everywhere and anywhere I want a MF
camera and leave my Hassy home a lot--as a matter of fact the RolleiFlex
almost always stays mounted on a tripod--I find it a bit faster to use than
the Hasselblad in setup---again a fine camera!! If I wanted only an 80 mm I
would not hesitate to take the Rollei TLR route but that is not considering
extension tubes or other specific uses but just general use! Rollei TLR and
FP4+ (or HP5) is a fine combination!!
Joseph Burke


  #6  
Old November 7th 05, 02:51 PM
henryp
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Default Hasselblad Clarification

Hassy resource site:
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/hasselblad/cameras/hasslemodel.htm

 




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