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20D Grey Highlights At ISO 1600



 
 
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  #22  
Old April 29th 05, 08:19 AM
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In message ,
paul wrote:

wrote:
"Douglas" wrote:

as sharp a shot as my trusty old SD9 Sigma does!



The SD9 is "sharp" because it is aliased and therefore pixellated.
Sharpness does not equal detail.



That's OK, I've played with dcraw to get a sharper more aliased look out
of the D70. Some shots it's great, some no improvement, some less sharp
looking, I've seen it make awful patterns but not necessarily. Each
alternative has it's strengths that can be harnessed.


There is a big difference between the D70 and the SD9; the D70 has
micrtolens and a weak AA filter. The SD9 has no microlenses and no AA
filter, at all.
--


John P Sheehy

  #23  
Old May 1st 05, 08:54 AM
Lionel
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On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 19:30:45 +0100, in
, "Giulia" said:

Thank you Duncan (and Douglas) for your posts.

You are right. I increased the exposure by 0.2 and the grey highlights
disappeared.

Unfortunately, in this situation I was shooting in low light, with a long
focal length and a fast moving subject (my nephew!), so increasing exposure
by 1 or 2 stops would have caused motion blur.


I use fill-flash to deal with subject motion at slow shutter speeds
(typically 1/25th) in low light. My technique is to frame the subject
against a bright background where they would be silhoutted &
motion-blurred, but hit them with a dash (-2/3rd stops or so) of
2nd-curtain flash, which freezes the subject motion while retaining the
natural look of the background.

One other tip, if you're doing a lot of low light photography is to go
shopping for fast (F1.8 -F1.2) prime lenses, rather than trying to use a
standard zoom lens (typically around F3.5-F5.6), because each stop of
aperture you gain from the lens will give you another stop of shutter
speed or ISO quality. For example, I shoot events in night-clubs
(including people dancing) with an wide open F1.8, 50mm prime at ISO
1600, which would be impossible with a F3.5 zoom lens.

Please excuse my ignorance, but it there a way to detect this when shooting?
The histogram looked OK (although little detail at the high end). Also, the
photo looked fine on LCD,


Dunno about the 20D, but I find that my 10D displays shots *way* too
bright to be able to use them to judge exposures. You'll get better
results by checking the histogram. I don't think it's documented
anywhere, but each vertical gridline on the histogram display is
equivalent to 1 EV of brightness or 1 F-stop of exposure. My rule of
thumb is that a shot with nothing (or just blown-out highlights) in the
righmost segment of the histogram is underexposed by a stop. (This is
usable in RAW, BTW, but be ugly in JPEG). Two near-empty rightmost
segments or more means your shot is too underexposed to be usable for
any normal purpose. If you're shooting people, a good rule of thumb is
that you should be seeing lots of pixels in the first half of the
rightmost segment of the histogram.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
  #24  
Old May 1st 05, 08:54 AM
Lionel
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On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 19:30:45 +0100, in
, "Giulia" said:

Thank you Duncan (and Douglas) for your posts.

You are right. I increased the exposure by 0.2 and the grey highlights
disappeared.

Unfortunately, in this situation I was shooting in low light, with a long
focal length and a fast moving subject (my nephew!), so increasing exposure
by 1 or 2 stops would have caused motion blur.


I use fill-flash to deal with subject motion at slow shutter speeds
(typically 1/25th) in low light. My technique is to frame the subject
against a bright background where they would be silhoutted &
motion-blurred, but hit them with a dash (-2/3rd stops or so) of
2nd-curtain flash, which freezes the subject motion while retaining the
natural look of the background.

One other tip, if you're doing a lot of low light photography is to go
shopping for fast (F1.8 -F1.2) prime lenses, rather than trying to use a
standard zoom lens (typically around F3.5-F5.6), because each stop of
aperture you gain from the lens will give you another stop of shutter
speed or ISO quality. For example, I shoot events in night-clubs
(including people dancing) with an wide open F1.8, 50mm prime at ISO
1600, which would be impossible with a F3.5 zoom lens.

Please excuse my ignorance, but it there a way to detect this when shooting?
The histogram looked OK (although little detail at the high end). Also, the
photo looked fine on LCD,


Dunno about the 20D, but I find that my 10D displays shots *way* too
bright to be able to use them to judge exposures. You'll get better
results by checking the histogram. I don't think it's documented
anywhere, but each vertical gridline on the histogram display is
equivalent to 1 EV of brightness or 1 F-stop of exposure. My rule of
thumb is that a shot with nothing (or just blown-out highlights) in the
righmost segment of the histogram is underexposed by a stop. (This is
usable in RAW, BTW, but be ugly in JPEG). Two near-empty rightmost
segments or more means your shot is too underexposed to be usable for
any normal purpose. If you're shooting people, a good rule of thumb is
that you should be seeing lots of pixels in the first half of the
rightmost segment of the histogram.

--
W
. | ,. w , "Some people are alive only because
\|/ \|/ it is illegal to kill them." Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------
 




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