Prints

I want a 20X30 print. Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its corrected.

greg

GregS wrote:
I want a 20X30 print. Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its corrected.

Many labs will have an option to print a photo without correction.
Costco has it, Smugmug has it. Any professional lab will have that
option. All you have to do is find the option since it's often
buried.

--
Ray Fischer

GregS wrote:
I want a 20X30 print. Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its corrected.

What inkjet? What image application?

Best to save to sRGB, and tell the printer: No color correction.
Also, hardest part may be to get density correct, as no print will ever
exactly match a monitor display. Many screens are very bright, and
adjusting the brightness of the photo so it looks 'right' on the screen
will produce a print that's too dark.

--
john mcwilliams

In article , John McWilliams wrote:
GregS wrote:
I want a 20X30 print. Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I
send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its
corrected.

What inkjet? What image application?

Best to save to sRGB, and tell the printer: No color correction.
Also, hardest part may be to get density correct, as no print will ever
exactly match a monitor display. Many screens are very bright, and
adjusting the brightness of the photo so it looks 'right' on the screen
will produce a print that's too dark.


I don't see any sRGB. I printed from ACDSee. I aws making changes from my BMP in ACDSee and IfranView.
Printer, IP600D

When I selected the better print, all the red disappeared.

Check out my jpg version.
http://zekfrivolous.com/pics/g7croptest.JPG

greg

In article , Scott W wrote:
On Dec 10, 6:16=A0am, (GregS) wrote:
I want a 20X30 print. Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I=
send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its =
corrected.

greg

What ever approach you end up using it might be a good idea to get a
number of 4x6 prints made with different adjustments made to the
image, things like contrast brightness, saturation and color balance.
4x6 prints are real cheap so you could test a bunch of settings for a
dollar or two.

Scott


Like a local place.

I am printing a 20X30 for the living room.

greg

GregS wrote:
I want a 20X30 print.

I assume 20x30cm?

Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its corrected.

Do I understand correctly:
- your inkjet gives funny results
- when you use a professional service, how can you get a
good match
?

Re inkjet: You might need to calibrate your printer with the
given ink and given paper. Depending on your printer, the printer
manufacturer or the paper manufacturer may publish generic ICCs
(calibration data) for their ink and paper, which should at least
give you some better basis. Or you need to buy a system that
does that (much more expensive than monitor calibration and often
labour-intensive, too) or use a professional printer calibration
service for 20 or 30EUR per calibration. Remember: if you change
the ink (as in: different type or different supplier), all bets
are off. If you change the paper, the same is true.

If you don't want to calibrate your printer and cannot use
generic ICCs (e.g. because they are lacking for the ink you
use), at least use the expensive ink by the printer manufacturer.
I tried cheaper ink and a grayscale image ... lots of tint there,
no gray. Most interesting, in the chinese sense.

Re professional print/photo development service: Choose one
that does guarantee colour correctness (check the fine print)
and gives out ICCs. They are usually not found among the cheap
services and do not have a non-deselectable autocorrection.
Use monitor proofing to check how the print would look like.
Do not have an overbright monitor. Do compare the print to the
monitor in stable light conditions, ideally with norm-light ---
remember, if you look at the print with incandescent light it's
gonna look much redder than in the open shade outside.

And remember that the print will never look like the screen,
because the screen emits light while the print reflects light.

-Wolfgang

In article , Wolfgang Weisselberg wrote:
GregS wrote:
I want a 20X30 print.

I assume 20x30cm?


No, inches.

My story over the weekend, I went to Walmart to make a 4X6 inch print.
It looked OK very much like the screen. Gee, I did find out they have the 20X30
inch prints. Going to that, and somehow I guess it did an auto correction, and the print
had a lot more contrast. $12.99 for that I consider a bargain. So I can print another
so I can fool around.


I'll be making more prints since its so cheap.

I never did much with ink jet printers. I never expected much,
so I need to fool around if I expect to get decent prints from them

Was buying printers with the Canon 6 cartridge systems with the $3
cheap cartridges. Had several printers using the same cartridge systems,
and since I mostly printed text, it didn't matter anyway.

greg


Using my inkjets I get some bizzare results. When I send
out to get print, how can I best get what I see on monitor, assuming its
corrected.

Do I understand correctly:
- your inkjet gives funny results
- when you use a professional service, how can you get a
good match
?

Re inkjet: You might need to calibrate your printer with the
given ink and given paper. Depending on your printer, the printer
manufacturer or the paper manufacturer may publish generic ICCs
(calibration data) for their ink and paper, which should at least
give you some better basis. Or you need to buy a system that
does that (much more expensive than monitor calibration and often
labour-intensive, too) or use a professional printer calibration
service for 20 or 30EUR per calibration. Remember: if you change
the ink (as in: different type or different supplier), all bets
are off. If you change the paper, the same is true.

If you don't want to calibrate your printer and cannot use
generic ICCs (e.g. because they are lacking for the ink you
use), at least use the expensive ink by the printer manufacturer.
I tried cheaper ink and a grayscale image ... lots of tint there,
no gray. Most interesting, in the chinese sense.

Re professional print/photo development service: Choose one
that does guarantee colour correctness (check the fine print)
and gives out ICCs. They are usually not found among the cheap
services and do not have a non-deselectable autocorrection.
Use monitor proofing to check how the print would look like.
Do not have an overbright monitor. Do compare the print to the
monitor in stable light conditions, ideally with norm-light ---
remember, if you look at the print with incandescent light it's
gonna look much redder than in the open shade outside.

And remember that the print will never look like the screen,
because the screen emits light while the print reflects light.

-Wolfgang