If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge
wrote: I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping ( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me anyway) ... .... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. This is what you get for taking to heart the lame "one size fits all" dumbed-down snapshooters suggestions made by all point 'n shooters and armchair photographers on the net. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
taylor aldler wrote:
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge wrote: I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping ( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me anyway) ... ... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. Why do you question a proven technique that lifts shadows into noise free detail? Really, let people do their thing for their purposes ... better than criticizing without showing your own prowess. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
taylor aldler wrote:
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge wrote: I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping ( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me anyway) ... ... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. This is what you get for taking to heart the lame "one size fits all" dumbed-down snapshooters suggestions made by all point 'n shooters and armchair photographers on the net. This sounds like the P&S troll. "Exposing for jpeg" which is what he proposes is NOT the absolute best way to use a more capable camera like a dSLR. That is, indeed, to expose for the highlights, putting them just under the clipping value, and save as raw. Fix later in the raw-jpeg conversion. Doug |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 10:17:25 -0500, Doug McDonald wrote:
... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. This is what you get for taking to heart the lame "one size fits all" dumbed-down snapshooters suggestions made by all point 'n shooters and armchair photographers on the net. This sounds like the P&S troll. "Exposing for jpeg" which is what he proposes is NOT the absolute best way to use a more capable camera like a dSLR. That is, indeed, to expose for the highlights, putting them just under the clipping value, and save as raw. Fix later in the raw-jpeg conversion. Your method is not the absolute best way either. There is no absolute best way. -- Regards, Robert http://www.arumes.com |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
Doug McDonald wrote:
taylor aldler wrote: On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge wrote: I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping ( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me anyway) ... ... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. This is what you get for taking to heart the lame "one size fits all" dumbed-down snapshooters suggestions made by all point 'n shooters and armchair photographers on the net. This sounds like the P&S troll. "Exposing for jpeg" which is what he proposes is NOT the absolute best way to use a more capable camera like a dSLR. That is, indeed, to expose for the highlights, putting them just under the clipping value, and save as raw. Fix later in the raw-jpeg conversion. Actually do what you say on import of raw into the editor (say photoshop ACR) and maintain it as 16 bit/colour for all edits before saving in any other format, including JPG's. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
Doug McDonald wrote:
taylor aldler wrote: On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 06:25:12 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge wrote: I set my exposure to slide the histogram to the right, without clipping ( when I have time), to capture the most tonal levels . So, now when I am editing the photos they are over exposed(not clipped). A sunrise is a good example. The deep colors are washed out. The obvious fix(to me anyway) ... ... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. This is what you get for taking to heart the lame "one size fits all" dumbed-down snapshooters suggestions made by all point 'n shooters and armchair photographers on the net. This sounds like the P&S troll. "Exposing for jpeg" which is what he proposes is NOT the absolute best way to use a more capable camera like a dSLR. That is, indeed, to expose for the highlights, putting them just under the clipping value, and save as raw. Fix later in the raw-jpeg conversion. And by the way, allowing some highlights to clip (direct lighting, some specular reflections) is quite alright, otherwise you'll push the middle down into the shadows and increase noise. This is where good spot metering skills come in. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
Porte Rouge wrote:
Do you have more to say about which way you set exposure and when? I am genuinely interested in how you decide to set exposure. At this point I actually use both, "expose to the right" and light meter, for the "fine art" shots. I can't see a difference, I was just curious in a CD versus vinyl sort of way. It is experience, about when it matters to get the highlights just exactly "right", which does as someone mentioned including correctly clipping the ultra bright things like specular reflections and lamps. I am mainly concerned with clouds in landscapes. Clipping those can lead to really bad results at times. When the going gets tough in such cases (landscapes) the Photoshop Highlight/shadow tool is the critical one. But it takes practice. Doug McDonald |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
Porte Rouge wrote:
Do you have more to say about which way you set exposure and when? One more thing about histograms in the camera: at least in Canons, they are made from the in-camera jpeg! This means that to make them useful, you have to set the camera to make jpegs using "faithful" mode, and contrast set to -3 or -4. Even so, it is only approximate. You also need to use the "flashing overload" indicator on the camera review screen. If you set contrast to 0 or more (remember, this is Canon) and trust the histogram, you will still lose dynamic range. Experience. Doug McDonald |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now?
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 09:47:45 -0700 (PDT), Porte Rouge
wrote: On Oct 4, 11:39*am, Robert Spanjaard wrote: On Sun, 04 Oct 2009 10:17:25 -0500, Doug McDonald wrote: ... doesn't seem to be obvious to you. Instead of learning how to expose each scene properly and not rely on dumbed-down point and shoot snapshooter's suggestions (like "expose to the right", which only applies to very few subjects) or depending on your automatic point and shoot modes of your camera, you'll forever be wasting your time in editing instead of taking photos the right way to begin with. This is what you get for taking to heart the lame "one size fits all" dumbed-down snapshooters suggestions made by all point 'n shooters and armchair photographers on the net. This sounds like the P&S troll. "Exposing for jpeg" which is what he proposes is NOT the absolute best way to use a more capable camera like a dSLR. That is, indeed, to expose for the highlights, putting them just under the clipping value, and save as raw. Fix later in the raw-jpeg conversion. Your method is not the absolute best way either. There is no absolute best way. -- Regards, Robert * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *http://www.arumes.com Do you have more to say about which way you set exposure and when? I am genuinely interested in how you decide to set exposure. At this point I actually use both, "expose to the right" and light meter, for the "fine art" shots. I can't see a difference, I was just curious in a CD versus vinyl sort of way. Porte There IS NO ONE RIGHT WAY. Not even a cut 'n dried dozen right ways. Each and every photograph requires a unique way to expose it properly. No automated metering system in the world will ever get it right for you. Unless you are like most people, a point 'n shooter, wanting some tech-head in a computer lab trying to decide your exposures for you the rest of your life. The metering recommendation designed and programmed by someone who's never taken one photo in their life. Or even worse, if you depend on the advice of all those armchair photographers that infest the net and newsgroups. Those desperately pretending to be photographers, laughing to themselves when they find out they managed to convince someone to do as they told you to do, never having held even one camera in their own lifetime. And you all fall for it like the fools that you are. This is why I find a live-view display (EVF or LCD) so valuable today. I can instantly see that I have to lower the exposure of a sunrise or sunset by as much as 2.5-3.0 EV stops to properly capture the intense colors and dramatic cloud contrasts. I can instantly see why I have to overexpose the scene on the water by up to 1.5 EV steps or more and let all those highlights on the water go out completely. I can instantly see that in order to capture the moon's features while it's rising above that mountain peak that I'll have to underexpose by 4 or more stops, ambient light depending. If you are depending on your metering system, depending on some lame-assed one-size-fits-all amateur's recommendation of "always expose to the right", and all the other inane nonsense of theirs, it will only keep you glued to your editor trying to desperately repair what you failed to do right in the first place. Never getting it quite right in editing, ever, no matter what you do. RAW file or not. I shoot with RAW files and I NEVER use that lame beginner snapshooter's recommendation of "expose to the right". Photography (digital especially) may be greatly depending on science, but it is all art. 100% art. There's no one right color of oil-paints, no one right medium, no one right brush, no one right way to create a brush-stroke. ... Get your heads out of your collective tech-head's asses. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
"Exposing to the right" is over exposed, what now? | Doug McDonald[_4_] | Digital SLR Cameras | 0 | October 4th 09 02:40 PM |
"Corset-Boi" Bob "Lionel Lauer" Larter has grown a "pair" and returned to AUK................ | \The Great One\ | Digital Photography | 0 | July 14th 09 12:04 AM |
We sell and supply Brand New Unlocked Nokia phones"""" | Marc[_2_] | Digital Photography | 1 | June 22nd 07 09:48 AM |
How to insert the "modified time" attribute in "date taken" attrib in batch mode | ashjas | Digital Photography | 4 | November 8th 06 09:00 PM |