Old time basics with exposure using grey card and when to underexpose...

I have read too many times and have seen the answer too many times on
how to do exposure with cameras, but I'm always left confused by the
responses about this. For example, I see as the same response in tons
of threads that when you want to get a good exposure (well, a light
meter is best of course), but doing a grey card reading, you get that
reading, and then apply 1 stop of exposure/EV (or open up the lens one
stop).

My confusion with this response is: Do you set the exposure according
to what the grey card says and leave that as your exposure? (one stop
total)

OR do you take the reading from the grey card and then add another stop
of exposure/open the lens up one more stop? (two stops total)

Question about underexposure. I know that there are specific times
when one wants to underexpose such as shooting snow and some also
mention doing it during sunsets. When does one need to underexpose
ever and when doing so, do you use the same grey card method above but
applying 1 less stop?

On 3 Sep 2006 16:41:25 -0700, "Progressiveabsolution"
wrote:

I have read too many times and have seen the answer too many times on
how to do exposure with cameras, but I'm always left confused by the
responses about this. For example, I see as the same response in tons
of threads that when you want to get a good exposure (well, a light
meter is best of course), but doing a grey card reading, you get that
reading, and then apply 1 stop of exposure/EV (or open up the lens one
stop).

My confusion with this response is: Do you set the exposure according
to what the grey card says and leave that as your exposure? (one stop
total)

OR do you take the reading from the grey card and then add another stop
of exposure/open the lens up one more stop? (two stops total)

Question about underexposure. I know that there are specific times
when one wants to underexpose such as shooting snow and some also
mention doing it during sunsets. When does one need to underexpose
ever and when doing so, do you use the same grey card method above but
applying 1 less stop?


Use the gray card reading. but don't open up one stop for digital.
One stop overexposure works, sort of, for negative film, for positive
either right on, or a bit underexposed is better. digital works much
like positive film.

One of the neat things with digital, you can try it, see what you
like, then do it your own way.

You can also calibrate your hand, the palm of my hand is one stop over
a gray card, so if I don't have the card I'm not totally lost.

Years ago at the Death Valley Park Headquarters they had slide shows,
the ones in the evening by professional photographers, the ones in the
afternoon by Kodak photographers.

The Pros always underexposed a bit, Kodak people shot dead on. At the
time I was shooting enough to recognize the difference, I doubt I
could now.

"Progressiveabsolution" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have read too many times and have seen the answer too many times on
how to do exposure with cameras, but I'm always left confused by the
responses about this. For example, I see as the same response in tons
of threads that when you want to get a good exposure (well, a light
meter is best of course), but doing a grey card reading, you get that
reading, and then apply 1 stop of exposure/EV (or open up the lens one
stop).

My confusion with this response is: Do you set the exposure according
to what the grey card says and leave that as your exposure? (one stop
total)

OR do you take the reading from the grey card and then add another stop
of exposure/open the lens up one more stop? (two stops total)

Question about underexposure. I know that there are specific times
when one wants to underexpose such as shooting snow and some also
mention doing it during sunsets. When does one need to underexpose
ever and when doing so, do you use the same grey card method above but
applying 1 less stop?


Hi.

If you are using a grey card, you are neither overexposing or underexposing,
you are exposing correctly for the light which is falling on the card and on
the scene. The grey card is the sort of subject your camera meter is
designed for.

White snow is not a subject your camera meter is designed for, it reflects
far too much light.

Using the Card you will find that the exposure will probably be about 2
stops less than what would be indicated if you metered on the snow. That 2
stops less and the setting from the card are correct.

Having said all of that the modern cameras with Evaluative Metering will
mostly do a very good job, except perhaps the white suited skier on the
white snow, or the black cat in the proverbial coal cellar.

Roy G

Thanks guys. I've been using the grey card reading and then applying
one more stop so I can understand now what's been going on. Greatly
appreciated and happy shooting!!!

Because digital sensors have such limited latitude for overexposure if you
have the opportunity to bracket and also shoot in raw format you will have a
higher percentage of quality images. If you work with raw format you will
see that most dSLRs are set to underexpose no matter what the ISO reading
because the engineers who program the cameras are keenly aware of the
limited latitude of the camera sensor. Just like with film you have to work
with your camera to find out what works best for you. What you are also
broaching is the argument about incident vs reflective light metering. For
digital sensors I believe that incident metering is more accurate but it is
also impossible for the way most people make photographs.