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#2
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In article , Lee C
writes (Michael Scarpitti) wrote in . com: (Mike Henley) wrote in message . com... I was reading past usenet threads and some say that you can only push/pull for a whole film rather than for individual frames "on the fly". Is this true? Say for example you have an aperture-priority semi-manual camera where you set the aperture and the camera chooses the shutter, and you have no direct control over the shutter, can you not deliberately overexpose or underexposre some images by using the iso dial? also, if this is possible, what would equate with EV+1 or EV+2 or even EV-1 or EV-2 if you're using iso dial on a 400 film for example (or a 100 film)? Most of the information I've read stipulates that developing time is affected when pushing or pulling your exposure. The problem would be extending / decreasing the development time for a single frame. If you can solve this problem I'd love to hear the solution. If you were desperate you could use the first half of the film at one ISO rating, and the second half at another, leaving a few blank frames in the middle. Then cut the film in the darkroom and process each half separately. I do however struggle to think of a single reason why you would want to do this, I suppose it is just possible to imagine that you had exposed the first half of your last roll at ISO100, then had an unexpected one-off opportunity in the dark (whoa, steady now..) which required a higher speed. It might happen to one photographer in a hundred once in his lifetime. You should carry more film - or use 5x4 and process each picture individually. David -- David Littlewood |
#3
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"David Littlewood" wrote in message ... In article , Lee C writes (Michael Scarpitti) wrote in . com: (Mike Henley) wrote in message . com... I was reading past usenet threads and some say that you can only push/pull for a whole film rather than for individual frames "on the fly". Is this true? Say for example you have an aperture-priority semi-manual camera where you set the aperture and the camera chooses the shutter, and you have no direct control over the shutter, can you not deliberately overexpose or underexposre some images by using the iso dial? also, if this is possible, what would equate with EV+1 or EV+2 or even EV-1 or EV-2 if you're using iso dial on a 400 film for example (or a 100 film)? Most of the information I've read stipulates that developing time is affected when pushing or pulling your exposure. The problem would be extending / decreasing the development time for a single frame. If you can solve this problem I'd love to hear the solution. If you were desperate you could use the first half of the film at one ISO rating, and the second half at another, leaving a few blank frames in the middle. Then cut the film in the darkroom and process each half separately. I do however struggle to think of a single reason why you would want to do this, I suppose it is just possible to imagine that you had exposed the first half of your last roll at ISO100, then had an unexpected one-off opportunity in the dark (whoa, steady now..) which required a higher speed. It might happen to one photographer in a hundred once in his lifetime. You should carry more film - or use 5x4 and process each picture individually. .......Or buy a digital camera......... |
#4
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Lee C wrote:
Most of the information I've read stipulates that developing time is affected when pushing or pulling your exposure. The problem would be extending / decreasing the development time for a single frame. If you can solve this problem I'd love to hear the solution. Individual frames no. You can do 'clip tests' where early frames on a roll are developed to test the film and indicate further processing adjustments for the rest of the film. Ha$$le. Cheers, Alan -- "There is no such thing as inaccuracy in a photograph. All photographs are accurate. None of them is the truth." -Richard Avedon -- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource: -- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.-- |
#5
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Most of the information I've read stipulates that developing time is
affected when pushing or pulling your exposure. The problem would be extending / decreasing the development time for a single frame. If you can solve this problem I'd love to hear the solution. There used to be a technique where you could push developed film in selenium and pull it in farmers reducer. I never had much faith in the whole idea though. Bob Hickey |
#6
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In article , Bob Hickey
writes Most of the information I've read stipulates that developing time is affected when pushing or pulling your exposure. The problem would be extending / decreasing the development time for a single frame. If you can solve this problem I'd love to hear the solution. There used to be a technique where you could push developed film in selenium and pull it in farmers reducer. I never had much faith in the whole idea though. Bob Hickey The technique is one of desperation for correcting serious mistakes on vital shorts - not something to be used as a matter of choice. Some of the chemicals used are very toxic. See Anchell's "Darkroom Cookbook" and other works. David -- David Littlewood |
#7
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In article , Bob Hickey
writes Most of the information I've read stipulates that developing time is affected when pushing or pulling your exposure. The problem would be extending / decreasing the development time for a single frame. If you can solve this problem I'd love to hear the solution. There used to be a technique where you could push developed film in selenium and pull it in farmers reducer. I never had much faith in the whole idea though. Bob Hickey The technique is one of desperation for correcting serious mistakes on vital shorts - not something to be used as a matter of choice. Some of the chemicals used are very toxic. See Anchell's "Darkroom Cookbook" and other works. David -- David Littlewood |
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