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#1
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
I have been going over some of my old
photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ |
#2
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
In message , Peter Jason
writes I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I've dropped a few of my efforts onto the web for you to have a look at: http://www.freenetpages.co.uk/hp/nei...tos/index.html Most are from a single RAW, letting Photomatix sort it out. One is from a three JPGs (one as taken, one lightened and one darkened as you outlined above). Some photos work better than others for Photomatix. It's awfully easy to get some very odd colours and fringes (as you will see from a couple of the examples I've given!). I'm still playing with HDR, and as you will see from the examples, I'm certainly no expert. Regards, -- Neil Pugh |
#3
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:06:18 +1100, Peter Jason wrote:
I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I'm not sure what you find about Photoshop's HDR that drives you to Photomatix. You can use HDR in Photoshop with one image. Just develop high and low, save as TIFF files and use them. I frequently do it when I need to recover blown highlights. Douglas -- If you don't defend your rights... You end up without any! |
#4
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
On Nov 16, 1:06 am, "Peter Jason" wrote:
I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I used photomatix to recover old photos (both digital or scanned photos) and convert into HDR. Check them at http://picasaweb.google.com/aniramca/Photomatix_HDR All photos come from a single JPEG file, or scanned from a print into JPEG file. I usually create duplicates using Gamma correction in my old Paint shop Pro version 6 (or 7?). I made 2 under exposures (usually with gamma = 25% and 50-60%, and 2 over exposures (usually gamma = 190-200% and 360-400%). |
#5
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
wrote in message
... On Nov 16, 1:06 am, "Peter Jason" wrote: I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I used photomatix to recover old photos (both digital or scanned photos) and convert into HDR. Check them at http://picasaweb.google.com/aniramca/Photomatix_HDR All photos come from a single JPEG file, or scanned from a print into JPEG file. I usually create duplicates using Gamma correction in my old Paint shop Pro version 6 (or 7?). I made 2 under exposures (usually with gamma = 25% and 50-60%, and 2 over exposures (usually gamma = 190-200% and 360-400%). Well, those are without a doubt the must ass with terd ugly things I have ever seen. The Spider -- Ignorance really is bliss, just look how happy President Bush is. |
#6
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
wrote in message ... On Nov 16, 1:06 am, "Peter Jason" wrote: I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I used photomatix to recover old photos (both digital or scanned photos) and convert into HDR. Check them at http://picasaweb.google.com/aniramca/Photomatix_HDR All photos come from a single JPEG file, or scanned from a print into JPEG file. I usually create duplicates using Gamma correction in my old Paint shop Pro version 6 (or 7?). I made 2 under exposures (usually with gamma = 25% and 50-60%, and 2 over exposures (usually gamma = 190-200% and 360-400%). Thanks, this is what I had in mind. I photograph buildings and this produced high contrast when the sun is shining. Normally I wait for an overcast day to get in all the detail, but this method might save some trouble. DxO Optics Pro v4 has some form of optimization, but I do not know if they use this one. |
#7
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
"Douglas" wrote in message ... On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:06:18 +1100, Peter Jason wrote: I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I'm not sure what you find about Photoshop's HDR that drives you to Photomatix. You can use HDR in Photoshop with one image. Just develop high and low, save as TIFF files and use them. I frequently do it when I need to recover blown highlights. Douglas I have not yet tried the one in PS, but I will. -- If you don't defend your rights... You end up without any! |
#9
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
The Spider Formally Seated Next To Little Miss Muffet wrote:
http://picasaweb.google.com/aniramca/Photomatix_HDR Well, those are without a doubt the must ass with terd ugly things I have ever seen. The Spider Quite the troll, Mr. Spider, aren't we ... OOPS, PARDON, they really ARE exactly what you say they are ... REALLY BAD!!! |
#10
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HDR (Photomatix) from the one photograph.
Douglas wrote:
On Fri, 16 Nov 2007 18:06:18 +1100, Peter Jason wrote: I have been going over some of my old photographs, especially the contrasty ones, to try and redeem them. If I use the PShop CS2 curves and generate two photos from one, one with the shadows fixed, and one with the highlights darkened, and then combine them with Photomatix, then I get a presentable whole. Has anyone used this method too, because it saves the tedious layering process in PS. Is there some sort of downside? PJ I'm not sure what you find about Photoshop's HDR that drives you to Photomatix. You can use HDR in Photoshop with one image. Just develop high and low, save as TIFF files and use them. I frequently do it when I need to recover blown highlights. Douglas Even that is not necessary. Just use Photoshop to convert the RAW image to a low contrast (say -30) 16 bit Photoshop file, making sure you get the whole image into the more or less linear part of the curve. Make sure you have the whole high and low parts unclipped. 16 bits is plenty to get any image from current cameras, even the newest "claimed 14 bit" Canons, if done right. Save the original. Then go to work in Photoshop. Use Noise Ninja on the dark parts. Doug McDonald |
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