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#1
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An average lens for still life photography?
Hi,
I entered in the world of LF photography since few months. I usually shoot architecture/landscape. Now I'd wish to start experimenting with some still life and close up photography. I do not own own lenses shorter than 135mm or lenses optimized for 1:1 reproductions. For beginning I think I will use a SA 90/8 MC lens. But for the future I might consider to use a more specialized lens for studio work. My budget is quite limited. Which lens you would suggest for 200-350$? (I'd buy it used, of course). Consider that mine is a Graflex Super Speed Graphic camera (with front shif/tilt/swing movements avaiable and a bellows extension of approx. 33-34cm). For color, I shoot mainly 6x9 and 6x7 format; for b&w I use mainly 10x12cm sheets. I can deal with non MC lenses as long as their resolution is satisfactory also with 120 format. thanks in advance |
#2
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I do not own own lenses shorter than 135mm
/\/\/\/\/\/\ I mean "longer", sorry... (I have a 65, a 90 and a 135mm... the 135mm is an old 4,5 Rodenstock and doesn't have a pc/synchro connection thus I cannot connect it to flash units) |
#3
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"Ronin" (debris)@(email).(it)
But for the future I might consider to use a more specialized lens for studio work. My budget is quite limited. Which lens you would suggest for 200-350$? Maybe a 150 G-Claron. |
#4
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I'd go with at least a 150. Better a 180 or 210, depending on how you
prefer the spatial relationships of the objects in your still life. There are some pretty reasonable 180's out there used. I didn't pay more than $300 for my 180 Schneider Symmar with shutter in excellent condition. JCPERE wrote: "Ronin" (debris)@(email).(it) But for the future I might consider to use a more specialized lens for studio work. My budget is quite limited. Which lens you would suggest for 200-350$? Maybe a 150 G-Claron. |
#5
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If you are trying to 'make do' on a tight budget, the 135 could be used with
your flash equipment. Reduce ambient light, use the B setting, then trip the shutter, fire the flash manually, then release the shutter. It is called 'open flash' ... and works fine under many conditions. "Ronin" (debris)@(email).(it) wrote in message ... I do not own own lenses shorter than 135mm /\/\/\/\/\/\ I mean "longer", sorry... (I have a 65, a 90 and a 135mm... the 135mm is an old 4,5 Rodenstock and doesn't have a pc/synchro connection thus I cannot connect it to flash units) |
#6
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"Fred Leif" wrote in message
... If you are trying to 'make do' on a tight budget, the 135 could be used with your flash equipment. Reduce ambient light, use the B setting, then trip the shutter, fire the flash manually, then release the shutter. It is called 'open flash' ... and works fine under many conditions. I second Fred's work-around. Besides, if you use a handheld flash (without a built-in auto exposure control) you can do several versions using multiple flashes in different placements quite easily. Take meticulous notes and you will have some very good information to work from on the next try. Soon you will probably have an excellent feel for multiple lights, and dive into the discipline with more confidence. |
#7
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"Fred Leif" wrote in message
... If you are trying to 'make do' on a tight budget, the 135 could be used with your flash equipment. Reduce ambient light, use the B setting, then trip the shutter, fire the flash manually, then release the shutter. It is called 'open flash' ... and works fine under many conditions. I second Fred's work-around. Besides, if you use a handheld flash (without a built-in auto exposure control) you can do several versions using multiple flashes in different placements quite easily. Take meticulous notes and you will have some very good information to work from on the next try. Soon you will probably have an excellent feel for multiple lights, and dive into the discipline with more confidence. |
#8
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The word average is an interesting term. If you mean "what everyone
does, I'd say a 150-210 on 4x6 and probably a 90 on 6x9. The interesting thing about your question is that I have a theory and I'd like some opinions on it. The theory is that one's favorite equipment ends up greatly contributing greatly to one's perceived "style", for example, I love to use my 58mm on my 6x9 for studio work. To some extent, I think that people can tell my work from the slightly wider look of my food photography. Anyone out there agree with my theory? Thanks MR http://www.foodportfolio.com Ronin wrote: Hi, I entered in the world of LF photography since few months. I usually shoot architecture/landscape. Now I'd wish to start experimenting with some still life and close up photography. I do not own own lenses shorter than 135mm or lenses optimized for 1:1 reproductions. For beginning I think I will use a SA 90/8 MC lens. But for the future I might consider to use a more specialized lens for studio work. My budget is quite limited. Which lens you would suggest for 200-350$? (I'd buy it used, of course). Consider that mine is a Graflex Super Speed Graphic camera (with front shif/tilt/swing movements avaiable and a bellows extension of approx. 33-34cm). For color, I shoot mainly 6x9 and 6x7 format; for b&w I use mainly 10x12cm sheets. I can deal with non MC lenses as long as their resolution is satisfactory also with 120 format. thanks in advance |
#9
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The word average is an interesting term. If you mean "what everyone
does, I'd say a 150-210 on 4x6 and probably a 90 on 6x9. The interesting thing about your question is that I have a theory and I'd like some opinions on it. The theory is that one's favorite equipment ends up greatly contributing greatly to one's perceived "style", for example, I love to use my 58mm on my 6x9 for studio work. To some extent, I think that people can tell my work from the slightly wider look of my food photography. Anyone out there agree with my theory? Thanks MR http://www.foodportfolio.com Ronin wrote: Hi, I entered in the world of LF photography since few months. I usually shoot architecture/landscape. Now I'd wish to start experimenting with some still life and close up photography. I do not own own lenses shorter than 135mm or lenses optimized for 1:1 reproductions. For beginning I think I will use a SA 90/8 MC lens. But for the future I might consider to use a more specialized lens for studio work. My budget is quite limited. Which lens you would suggest for 200-350$? (I'd buy it used, of course). Consider that mine is a Graflex Super Speed Graphic camera (with front shif/tilt/swing movements avaiable and a bellows extension of approx. 33-34cm). For color, I shoot mainly 6x9 and 6x7 format; for b&w I use mainly 10x12cm sheets. I can deal with non MC lenses as long as their resolution is satisfactory also with 120 format. thanks in advance |
#10
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"Fred Leif" wrote in message
... If you are trying to 'make do' on a tight budget, the 135 could be used with your flash equipment. Reduce ambient light, use the B setting, then trip the shutter, fire the flash manually, then release the shutter. It is called 'open flash' ... and works fine under many conditions. I was doing that just this afternoon - architectural shots inside a church and I found that my sync. cable had failed and the spare wasn't in the case where it should have been. No problem working this way, so long as the ambient light is dim enough relative to the flash. Peter |
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