Nikon F Manual Focus SLR

Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!

S. S. wrote:
Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!


To a plasticam, auto-everything (& maybe digital) worshipper, 0$
To someone who likes indestructable classic precision instruments, say
150-250$ (unless it really is in collectable condition, etc..)

Mirror foam probably needs changing (easy DIY fix).
50% chance that the Photomic (if included) needs a cla or more.
Look at the shutter curtains, watching for deep dents, wrinkles or
Holes(!) (mine are fairly wrinkled, but no problem).
Look through the shutter with the back off at an evenly lit surface: The
full 24x36 frame should be visible at all speeds.
Look at the mirror for ugly scratches, etc. (good for bringing the price
down).

Apart from the mentioned foam and old age problems with the Photomics,
there really isn't much that goes wrong with these cameras.

Good for landscapes: You couldn't do better in 35mm, unless of course
you go for Zeiss or Leitz...
; )
The 50mm focal length is a matter of taste.

Some here will probbly tell you that you *can't* shoot landscapes
without autofocus, matrix exposure and a 12 fps motor.

Chris

S. S. wrote:
Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!


To a plasticam, auto-everything (& maybe digital) worshipper, 0$
To someone who likes indestructable classic precision instruments, say
150-250$ (unless it really is in collectable condition, etc..)

Mirror foam probably needs changing (easy DIY fix).
50% chance that the Photomic (if included) needs a cla or more.
Look at the shutter curtains, watching for deep dents, wrinkles or
Holes(!) (mine are fairly wrinkled, but no problem).
Look through the shutter with the back off at an evenly lit surface: The
full 24x36 frame should be visible at all speeds.
Look at the mirror for ugly scratches, etc. (good for bringing the price
down).

Apart from the mentioned foam and old age problems with the Photomics,
there really isn't much that goes wrong with these cameras.

Good for landscapes: You couldn't do better in 35mm, unless of course
you go for Zeiss or Leitz...
; )
The 50mm focal length is a matter of taste.

Some here will probbly tell you that you *can't* shoot landscapes
without autofocus, matrix exposure and a 12 fps motor.

Chris

"Chris Loffredo" wrote in message
...

Some here will probbly tell you that you *can't* shoot landscapes
without autofocus, matrix exposure and a 12 fps motor.


Some will say that, to be sure, as they do regarding just about every
photographic subject. But landscapes benefit least from automation.
Photographing static subject on a manual camera is a natural.

The normal lens has the advantage of imposing no graphical control upon the
subject. Perspective is as seen by the human eye. It is THE lens for
recording scenes to look as they did in real life (at least, in terms of the
relationship in size between all of the objects in the frame).

Normal lenses typically are the sharpest and fastest in the manufacturer's
range. You can shoot a lot of very nice images with only a normal lens,
especially if stopped down to its sweet spot. I usually shoot at 5.6 or f/8
with mine.

One other technique that I often use is to isolate my primary subject by
shooting wide open, for minimum depth of field. The main subject is in
focus, but the background is a creamy blur--just enough to show the main
subject in its surroundings, but blurred enough to not compete with it for
attention.

Best accessory for landscapes is a solid tripod, to maximize image
sharpness. Second best accessory is a lens shade, to minimize flare from
off-axis light. Third best accessory is a polarizing filter, to darken
skies, emphasize clouds, and saturate colors.

Go for it! Who knows, you might become the next Ansel Adams!

"S. S." wrote in message
om...
Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!

Nikon F goes back a ways, and no new parts are available for them. I have
two, and one works ok (meter's not perfect) and the other's meter doesn't
work at all. I still use them for long night shots (manual shutter means no
batteries to wear down), and for photography requiring mirror lock up. When
I do, I use a hand held meter (not for long night shots--then you just open
the shutter up for "awhile").

They go on Ebay from $100 to $600, and probably more for collectors. KEH
can act as an indicator of which F's cost more, and which cost less:
http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?...d&crid=8493405
Their prices are increasingly out of step, however, IMHO.

I really wouldn't recommend this camera, though, as it's hard to maintain.
I had my meter recalibrated several years ago, and now it needs it again. I
have to send it to Utah to get it done. If anything else goes wrong, I'm
not sure where I'll send it...

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com

"S. S." wrote in message
om...
Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!

Nikon F goes back a ways, and no new parts are available for them. I have
two, and one works ok (meter's not perfect) and the other's meter doesn't
work at all. I still use them for long night shots (manual shutter means no
batteries to wear down), and for photography requiring mirror lock up. When
I do, I use a hand held meter (not for long night shots--then you just open
the shutter up for "awhile").

They go on Ebay from $100 to $600, and probably more for collectors. KEH
can act as an indicator of which F's cost more, and which cost less:
http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?...d&crid=8493405
Their prices are increasingly out of step, however, IMHO.

I really wouldn't recommend this camera, though, as it's hard to maintain.
I had my meter recalibrated several years ago, and now it needs it again. I
have to send it to Utah to get it done. If anything else goes wrong, I'm
not sure where I'll send it...

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com

In article , Matt Clara wrote:

I really wouldn't recommend this camera, though, as it's hard to maintain.
I had my meter recalibrated several years ago, and now it needs it again. I
have to send it to Utah to get it done. If anything else goes wrong, I'm
not sure where I'll send it...

The meter on the F (Photomic, Photomic T and Photomic Tn), F2 (Photomic*,
Photomic S, Photomic Sb) adn Nikormat cameras were made with a plastic
strip with a carbon resistance element deposited on it. As you change
F stop or shutter speed, you run a spring loaded contact across the
strip.

This wears out the carbon and eventualy the plastic is left, causing
the meter need to "jump" at various spots. Since the last camera using
these strips was made in 1976, spare strips are long gone, and parts
cameras with intact strips are almost, if not impossible to find.

The only repair is to replace the carbon, rubbing a pencil over the
bare spots is one way, but none of the ways produces a strip "good as new".
Eventualy you will have to give up because each repair has diminishing
returns.

The F2 Photomic A and F2 Photmic As use what was called by Nikon a
"digital strip". The contact at each F stop /shutter speed is a copper
switch with the resitance being fixed resistors. These switches can be
rebuilt many times if needed.

* There were a small number of F2 Photomic finders built in 1976 with
the digital strip. They are easy to identify having the "long tail"
(extra cut out on the underexposure side) of Photomic A finders.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, C.T.O. GW&T Ltd., Jerusalem Israel

IL Voice: 972-544-608-069 IL Fax: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838

In article , Matt Clara wrote:

I really wouldn't recommend this camera, though, as it's hard to maintain.
I had my meter recalibrated several years ago, and now it needs it again. I
have to send it to Utah to get it done. If anything else goes wrong, I'm
not sure where I'll send it...

The meter on the F (Photomic, Photomic T and Photomic Tn), F2 (Photomic*,
Photomic S, Photomic Sb) adn Nikormat cameras were made with a plastic
strip with a carbon resistance element deposited on it. As you change
F stop or shutter speed, you run a spring loaded contact across the
strip.

This wears out the carbon and eventualy the plastic is left, causing
the meter need to "jump" at various spots. Since the last camera using
these strips was made in 1976, spare strips are long gone, and parts
cameras with intact strips are almost, if not impossible to find.

The only repair is to replace the carbon, rubbing a pencil over the
bare spots is one way, but none of the ways produces a strip "good as new".
Eventualy you will have to give up because each repair has diminishing
returns.

The F2 Photomic A and F2 Photmic As use what was called by Nikon a
"digital strip". The contact at each F stop /shutter speed is a copper
switch with the resitance being fixed resistors. These switches can be
rebuilt many times if needed.

* There were a small number of F2 Photomic finders built in 1976 with
the digital strip. They are easy to identify having the "long tail"
(extra cut out on the underexposure side) of Photomic A finders.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, C.T.O. GW&T Ltd., Jerusalem Israel

IL Voice: 972-544-608-069 IL Fax: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838

Matt Clara wrote:
"S. S." wrote in message
om...

Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!


Nikon F goes back a ways, and no new parts are available for them. I have
two, and one works ok (meter's not perfect) and the other's meter doesn't
work at all. I still use them for long night shots (manual shutter means no
batteries to wear down), and for photography requiring mirror lock up. When
I do, I use a hand held meter (not for long night shots--then you just open
the shutter up for "awhile").

They go on Ebay from $100 to $600, and probably more for collectors. KEH
can act as an indicator of which F's cost more, and which cost less:
http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?...d&crid=8493405
Their prices are increasingly out of step, however, IMHO.

I really wouldn't recommend this camera, though, as it's hard to maintain.
I had my meter recalibrated several years ago, and now it needs it again. I
have to send it to Utah to get it done. If anything else goes wrong, I'm
not sure where I'll send it...



At least a couple of years ago someone in the USA (with a website) was
offfering Photomic overhauls for $90. His site also explains hot to do
it yourself. I cleaned up mine myself. Simply recalibrating the meter is
a 10 minute /or less) job.
I seriously doubt you will be able to recalibrate the meter of a
"modern" camera yourself.

Apart from the Photomic and the mirror foam, the fact is that there
basically isn't anything that can go wrong with these cameras.
Maintainance? What's that?

"Chris Loffredo" wrote in message
...
Matt Clara wrote:
"S. S." wrote in message
om...

Hello, what is the fair value for a used Nikon F body plus a 50mm 1.4
prime lens? What should I be looking at in order to test whether they
are in good working condition? If they are in good working condition,
are they any good for landscape photographing? Thanks!


Nikon F goes back a ways, and no new parts are available for them. I
have
two, and one works ok (meter's not perfect) and the other's meter
doesn't
work at all. I still use them for long night shots (manual shutter
means no
batteries to wear down), and for photography requiring mirror lock up.
When
I do, I use a hand held meter (not for long night shots--then you just
open
the shutter up for "awhile").

They go on Ebay from $100 to $600, and probably more for collectors.
KEH
can act as an indicator of which F's cost more, and which cost less:

http://www.keh.com/shop/product.cfm?...d&crid=8493405
Their prices are increasingly out of step, however, IMHO.

I really wouldn't recommend this camera, though, as it's hard to
maintain.
I had my meter recalibrated several years ago, and now it needs it
again. I
have to send it to Utah to get it done. If anything else goes wrong,
I'm
not sure where I'll send it...



At least a couple of years ago someone in the USA (with a website) was
offfering Photomic overhauls for $90. His site also explains hot to do
it yourself. I cleaned up mine myself. Simply recalibrating the meter is
a 10 minute /or less) job.
I seriously doubt you will be able to recalibrate the meter of a
"modern" camera yourself.

Apart from the Photomic and the mirror foam, the fact is that there
basically isn't anything that can go wrong with these cameras.
Maintainance? What's that?

His name is Robert Decker out of Utah.

I repeat, if you're buying one of these to be your main camera, expect it to
have problems that are difficult to have corrected. Pain In The Ass is the
word(s).

--
Regards,
Matt Clara
www.mattclara.com