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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
Chaps,
I've got a Mamiya C330f which I am mostly very pleased with. However, I have noticed that a number of images - though reasonable were not as sharp as I was expecting. This was highlighted when on a recent film there was one exceptionally sharp print. Does this sound to you like I need to get someone to look at the focusing screen / mirror alignment? I almost exclusively handhold (I can hear the protests now) but zooming in on the negs / scans does not indicate any symptoms of shake. I suppose another option is to buy another body off of ebay (bodies on their own seem to go for much less than lens + body) and see how that is, perhaps having a go myself on the least good camera. Pete -- http://www.petezilla.co.uk |
#2
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
Peter Chant wrote: Chaps, I've got a Mamiya C330f which I am mostly very pleased with. However, I have noticed that a number of images - though reasonable were not as sharp as I was expecting. This was highlighted when on a recent film there was one exceptionally sharp print. Does this sound to you like I need to get someone to look at the focusing screen / mirror alignment? I almost exclusively handhold (I can hear the protests now) but zooming in on the negs / scans does not indicate any symptoms of shake. I suppose another option is to buy another body off of ebay (bodies on their own seem to go for much less than lens + body) and see how that is, perhaps having a go myself on the least good camera. It could be due to camera shake. To eliminate this as a possibility then I would advice you to shoot a roll with the camera tripod mounted and inspect the results closely using an 8x lupe or higher. If you still have soft images then post back here as there are other factors that could be involved such as the focussing screen spacing needing to be adjusted. |
#3
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
The 330 is much lighter than the 33's I used to use that helped cradle the
camera as you do with the rack focusing. So it could be shake but then it would show over all the image. I'd check the lens fitting as it may not be fitting correctly and may just show signs of image softening due to poor registration. I found the lenses to be crisp and sharp albeit contrasty. But then I like that. Duncan "Peter Chant" wrote in message ... Chaps, I've got a Mamiya C330f which I am mostly very pleased with. However, I have noticed that a number of images - though reasonable were not as sharp as I was expecting. This was highlighted when on a recent film there was one exceptionally sharp print. Does this sound to you like I need to get someone to look at the focusing screen / mirror alignment? I almost exclusively handhold (I can hear the protests now) but zooming in on the negs / scans does not indicate any symptoms of shake. I suppose another option is to buy another body off of ebay (bodies on their own seem to go for much less than lens + body) and see how that is, perhaps having a go myself on the least good camera. Pete -- http://www.petezilla.co.uk |
#4
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
you know i have kinda the same problem....at 2.8 and slow shutter my
pics are blurr..at f8 or f11 @60th...they are ok...sharp and clear....was told nothing was wrong with the camera when i took it in....any ideas on that one from you guys....the camera now just sits....any help would be great...........thanks wayne |
#5
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
PRO SHOW_SS wrote: you know i have kinda the same problem....at 2.8 and slow shutter my pics are blurr..at f8 or f11 @60th...they are ok...sharp and clear....was told nothing was wrong with the camera when i took it in....any ideas on that one from you guys....the camera now just sits....any help would be great...........thanks wayne You shouldn't expect the lens to be sharp at full aperture. Why not continue to use it at f8 or f11 if it gives you results that you like? |
#6
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
This was highlighted when on a recent film there was one
exceptionally sharp print. Peter: Do you wear glasses, especially bifocals? Perhaps you're old enough to have prespyopia... the inability of the eye to focus sharply on nearby objects, resulting from loss of elasticity of the crystalline lens with advancing age. If one of the twelve frames was sharp then prespyopia may be the cause, and I think that if that's the case then all you need is a minus lens in your waist level finder. I get around the problem by using a prism on my 220F. Jim Hemenway Peter Chant wrote: Chaps, I've got a Mamiya C330f which I am mostly very pleased with. However, I have noticed that a number of images - though reasonable were not as sharp as I was expecting. This was highlighted when on a recent film there was one exceptionally sharp print. Does this sound to you like I need to get someone to look at the focusing screen / mirror alignment? I almost exclusively handhold (I can hear the protests now) but zooming in on the negs / scans does not indicate any symptoms of shake. I suppose another option is to buy another body off of ebay (bodies on their own seem to go for much less than lens + body) and see how that is, perhaps having a go myself on the least good camera. Pete |
#7
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
PRO SHOW_SS a écrit :
you know i have kinda the same problem....at 2.8 and slow shutter my pics are blurr..at f8 or f11 @60th...they are ok...sharp and clear....was told nothing was wrong with the camera when i took it in....any ideas on that one from you guys....the camera now just sits....any help would be great........... All lenses are beter when stopped down, this is perfectlly normal. The 80mm is no exception. I.t is quite soft à f/2.8 but can be very sharp at f/8. -- Vincent Becker Photographie et appareils anciens - Photography and classic cameras http://www.lumieresenboite.com Contact direct : http://www.lumieresenboite.com/contact.php |
#8
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
Jim Hemenway wrote:
This was highlighted when on a recent film there was one exceptionally sharp print. Peter: Do you wear glasses, especially bifocals? Yes, but not bi-focals. Perhaps you're old enough to have prespyopia... the inability of the eye to focus sharply on nearby objects, resulting from loss of elasticity of the crystalline lens with advancing age. I hope not I'm thirty five so I consider myself just leaving my late teens... If one of the twelve frames was sharp then prespyopia may be the cause, and I think that if that's the case then all you need is a minus lens in your waist level finder. I get around the problem by using a prism on my 220F. The porroprism I assume. I've never had a problem on my 35mm cameras, including notably my Pentax MZ-5n which I usually use as manual focus and has no focusing aids on the screen (ie split prism, microprism) - though it does have dioptre adjustment. I can see that putting a rather large -ve lens on top the waiste level finder gives you a problem, either it does not fold - or you need somewhere to put the lens you have folded it. -- http://www.petezilla.co.uk |
#9
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
RolandRB wrote:
It could be due to camera shake. To eliminate this as a possibility then I would advice you to shoot a roll with the camera tripod mounted and inspect the results closely using an 8x lupe or higher. If you still have soft images then post back here as there are other factors that could be involved such as the focussing screen spacing needing to be adjusted. Will try - today or tomorrow - will take a while to get the film back though. I'm wondering if I ought to set something up on a table so I a target to aim at that is say 2m away and a few more in front of and behind of, just to see if the area of sharp focus is somewhere other than where it should be. Of course - this is all table top which is close and I usually shoot landscapes - OTOH it should be more sensative of focus problems. Pete -- http://www.petezilla.co.uk |
#10
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Sharpness - Mamiya C330
Duncan wrote:
The 330 is much lighter than the 33's I used to use that helped cradle the camera as you do with the rack focusing. So it could be shake but then it would show over all the image. I'd check the lens fitting as it may not be fitting correctly and may just show signs of image softening due to poor registration. I found the lenses to be crisp and sharp albeit contrasty. But then I like that. I change fairly frequently between the 80 and 55mm lenses and have not noticed problems with them bedding down. I also for various reasons have two 80mm, so I can try a selection - that might show up any problems. Pete -- http://www.petezilla.co.uk |
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