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Best photo editing monitor: CRT or LCD?



 
 
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Old April 17th 06, 12:27 PM posted to rec.photo.digital.slr-systems
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Default Best photo editing monitor: CRT or LCD?


"ian lincoln" wrote in message news:...

"Alan Browne" wrote in message
...

Which is best for photo editing, CRT or LCD?

Which requires the least calibration? (frequency of calibration).

Which has best angles of view?

Which has the best color range / color-resolution?

Which is more harmful/fatiguing to the eye?

Which witch is which?

Specific products (CRT or LCD) that are esp. good for photo editing?

Alan.


CRT are supposed to be worse on the eye. You need one that runs at 100hz or
higher really. Although LCD have a lower refresh rate on paper that is only
relevant to high frame rate games. LCD tech doesn't need to refresh
regularly as each pixel stays on simultaneously until needed to change
rather than scans. Refresh rate is more accurately described as response
time. LCDs of course have lower radiation and consume less power. As for
colour accuracy and angle of view well the crt wins the angle of view. As
far as brightness and contrast the gap is closer between top end lcds
nowadays than when they first came out. As for consistency you have to
leave a crt monitor on 45 mins to warm up before calibrating according to
vincent at photo I.

As for resolution that comes down to dot pitch and screen size. The larger
the screen and smaller the dots the higher the res. Of course LCDs work
best only at their highest setting. Then there is the mask (memory a bit
foggy here) on crts. One is a sort of grid and ,, hell i forget now.
Basically if you want top quality colour management and high res etc you are
looking at 20 or 21" sony or mitsubishi diamond. Its not just the size, the
correct kind of screen mask or whatever was important even if they weren't
big you were still talking LCD screen prices for the best CRT. As for
colour range there were colourmanagement settings in photoshop that show the
reduced gamut of actual printers displayed and it would show a patch of
colour and the closest rendition the printer could do. Might be
softproofing. So setting everything to adobe 1998 and forget about it isn't
the case.

Making sure you are not double profiling with the printer output, i.e the
printer driver making adjustments after photoshop can be tricky. In case
you are wondering i have just started looking into this in earnest and have
just ordered the most expensive calibrator i can afford. I will conquor
this before i splash out on A3+ printer with 8 or more inks.



 




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