TLR parallax correction on the cheap

I was just browsing eBay thinking about buying a paramender for my
Mamiya C220. I've had couple of shots ruined because I was off
eyeballing the parallax correction. I was rather disappointed seeing
that a simple piece of equipment costs around 100 USD. Then again,
everything you can attack to your camera is expensive.

But then a simple, FREE solution came to me: my trusty Manfrotto
tripod has an extendable middle post. Why not measure the height
needed to fix parallax, extend the post to the right height and mark
the spot on the post so I can use that as a guide to get parallax-free
shots every time!? As easy and as fast as paramender with no extra
bulk. Brilliant! I can spend the $100 on film! So can anyone
considering a paramender.

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.

"Hapa" wrote in message
om...
I was just browsing eBay thinking about buying a paramender for my
Mamiya C220. I've had couple of shots ruined because I was off
eyeballing the parallax correction. I was rather disappointed seeing
that a simple piece of equipment costs around 100 USD. Then again,
everything you can attack to your camera is expensive.

But then a simple, FREE solution came to me: my trusty Manfrotto
tripod has an extendable middle post. Why not measure the height
needed to fix parallax, extend the post to the right height and mark
the spot on the post so I can use that as a guide to get parallax-free
shots every time!? As easy and as fast as paramender with no extra
bulk. Brilliant! I can spend the $100 on film! So can anyone
considering a paramender.

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.


Only one issue comes to mind: you need to move the camera along the axis of
a line that joins the two lenses, if you see what I mean. ie., If you are
pointing it horizontally straight out in front of you, it needs to move
vertically, in whihc case using the column works perfectly. If you tilt the
camera up or down, with the tripod head, it and the column are no longer
aligned, and you aren't moving it along quite the right line.

Not an insurmountable issue, and as long as you think about it, not much of
a problem. You could always use a tripod with a tilting column if you
really wanted to solve this issue in serious style, but those tend not to
have cranked columns (just cut a little piece of plywood to the right lenght
to use as a setting template for the necessary colun extension, in that
case.) If I used a TLR for any sort of close up work, that's probably waht
I'd do.


Peter

"Hapa" wrote in message
om...
I was just browsing eBay thinking about buying a paramender for my
Mamiya C220. I've had couple of shots ruined because I was off
eyeballing the parallax correction. I was rather disappointed seeing
that a simple piece of equipment costs around 100 USD. Then again,
everything you can attack to your camera is expensive.

But then a simple, FREE solution came to me: my trusty Manfrotto
tripod has an extendable middle post. Why not measure the height
needed to fix parallax, extend the post to the right height and mark
the spot on the post so I can use that as a guide to get parallax-free
shots every time!? As easy and as fast as paramender with no extra
bulk. Brilliant! I can spend the $100 on film! So can anyone
considering a paramender.

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.


Only one issue comes to mind: you need to move the camera along the axis of
a line that joins the two lenses, if you see what I mean. ie., If you are
pointing it horizontally straight out in front of you, it needs to move
vertically, in whihc case using the column works perfectly. If you tilt the
camera up or down, with the tripod head, it and the column are no longer
aligned, and you aren't moving it along quite the right line.

Not an insurmountable issue, and as long as you think about it, not much of
a problem. You could always use a tripod with a tilting column if you
really wanted to solve this issue in serious style, but those tend not to
have cranked columns (just cut a little piece of plywood to the right lenght
to use as a setting template for the necessary colun extension, in that
case.) If I used a TLR for any sort of close up work, that's probably waht
I'd do.


Peter

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:27:49 -0800, Hapa wrote:



But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.

I have heard it stated but not accurately measured that one turn of the
crank handle on the centre column of a tripod is often about the right
amount to move the column to give this effect. Sounds too fortuitous.

Pete

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:27:49 -0800, Hapa wrote:



But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.

I have heard it stated but not accurately measured that one turn of the
crank handle on the centre column of a tripod is often about the right
amount to move the column to give this effect. Sounds too fortuitous.

Pete

All you are giving up is the privelage of spending an extra $100 for
an item that'll spend most of its' time in your camera bag.. Your
"cheap" solution is a valid one. Especially if you have a crank on the
center column of the tripod.

I don't know about the 220 but on the 330S there is a sliding pointer
that shows where the top of the frame will be for a given lens.
Rolleiflex, if you ever go that way, has a moving mask that frames the
shot in the viewfinder. If you want to dump the $100 on a perminant
piece of equipment, you are much better off adding a lens to your C220
outfit than the paramender. Of course, another, less expensive option,
is a Porrofinder. It's a prism like device, very lightweight, that
corrects (somewhat) the parallax. Metered versions are available but I
would find them useless as you don't get a true TTL reading with them
(unless you are using the 105mm).. At any rate, enjoy the camera.

8) Jeff

(Hapa) wrote in message . com...
I was just browsing eBay thinking about buying a paramender for my
Mamiya C220. I've had couple of shots ruined because I was off
eyeballing the parallax correction. I was rather disappointed seeing
that a simple piece of equipment costs around 100 USD. Then again,
everything you can attack to your camera is expensive.

But then a simple, FREE solution came to me: my trusty Manfrotto
tripod has an extendable middle post. Why not measure the height
needed to fix parallax, extend the post to the right height and mark
the spot on the post so I can use that as a guide to get parallax-free
shots every time!? As easy and as fast as paramender with no extra
bulk. Brilliant! I can spend the $100 on film! So can anyone
considering a paramender.

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.

All you are giving up is the privelage of spending an extra $100 for
an item that'll spend most of its' time in your camera bag.. Your
"cheap" solution is a valid one. Especially if you have a crank on the
center column of the tripod.

I don't know about the 220 but on the 330S there is a sliding pointer
that shows where the top of the frame will be for a given lens.
Rolleiflex, if you ever go that way, has a moving mask that frames the
shot in the viewfinder. If you want to dump the $100 on a perminant
piece of equipment, you are much better off adding a lens to your C220
outfit than the paramender. Of course, another, less expensive option,
is a Porrofinder. It's a prism like device, very lightweight, that
corrects (somewhat) the parallax. Metered versions are available but I
would find them useless as you don't get a true TTL reading with them
(unless you are using the 105mm).. At any rate, enjoy the camera.

8) Jeff

(Hapa) wrote in message . com...
I was just browsing eBay thinking about buying a paramender for my
Mamiya C220. I've had couple of shots ruined because I was off
eyeballing the parallax correction. I was rather disappointed seeing
that a simple piece of equipment costs around 100 USD. Then again,
everything you can attack to your camera is expensive.

But then a simple, FREE solution came to me: my trusty Manfrotto
tripod has an extendable middle post. Why not measure the height
needed to fix parallax, extend the post to the right height and mark
the spot on the post so I can use that as a guide to get parallax-free
shots every time!? As easy and as fast as paramender with no extra
bulk. Brilliant! I can spend the $100 on film! So can anyone
considering a paramender.

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing? Is
there something I'm overlooking in the functioning of the paramender
(never seen one irl). I haven't actually tested this out, yet, but
will ASAP.

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing?

As said by Bandicoot, your solution works as long as your camera is
perfectly aligned with the tripod column. If you tilt it it won't work,
you'll lose framing and focusing. The paramender is very useful if you
want to take very close shots and want the freedom to tilt your camera.
The moving index in the C330 is ok for medium distances (above 1m) but
isn't accurate enough at very short distances. I use my Paramender quite
often. You should be able to find one for less than 100$ (rather 60-75)
if you take your time.

--
Vincent Becker
Photographie et appareils anciens - Photography and classic cameras
http://www.lumieresenboite.com
Contact direct : http://www.lumieresenboite.com/contact.php

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing?

As said by Bandicoot, your solution works as long as your camera is
perfectly aligned with the tripod column. If you tilt it it won't work,
you'll lose framing and focusing. The paramender is very useful if you
want to take very close shots and want the freedom to tilt your camera.
The moving index in the C330 is ok for medium distances (above 1m) but
isn't accurate enough at very short distances. I use my Paramender quite
often. You should be able to find one for less than 100$ (rather 60-75)
if you take your time.

--
Vincent Becker
Photographie et appareils anciens - Photography and classic cameras
http://www.lumieresenboite.com
Contact direct : http://www.lumieresenboite.com/contact.php

But the solution sounds too easy. Is there something I'm missing?

As said by Bandicoot, your solution works as long as your camera is
perfectly aligned with the tripod column. If you tilt it it won't work,
you'll lose framing and focusing. The paramender is very useful if you
want to take very close shots and want the freedom to tilt your camera.
The moving index in the C330 is ok for medium distances (above 1m) but
isn't accurate enough at very short distances. I use my Paramender quite
often. You should be able to find one for less than 100$ (rather 60-75)
if you take your time.

--
Vincent Becker
Photographie et appareils anciens - Photography and classic cameras
http://www.lumieresenboite.com
Contact direct : http://www.lumieresenboite.com/contact.php