A Photography forum. PhotoBanter.com

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » PhotoBanter.com forum » General Photography » In The Darkroom
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old August 3rd 06, 04:28 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Steven Woody
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 164
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated

here is GAF-125 found in jack's photographic site which is said to be
similar to kodak d-72,

Water (125°F/52°C) 750 ml
Metol 3 g
Sodium Sulfite (anhy) 44 g
Hydroquinone 12 g
Sodium Carbonate (anhy) 65 g
Potassium Bromide 2 g
Cold water to make 1000 ml

but i found, the stock solution is very easy to go brown, usually in 3
to 5 days. i think that is not normal and hope for some clues. thanks.

-
woody

  #2  
Old August 3rd 06, 05:39 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Richard Knoppow
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 751
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated


"Steven Woody" wrote in message
ps.com...
here is GAF-125 found in jack's photographic site which is
said to be
similar to kodak d-72,

Water (125°F/52°C) 750 ml
Metol 3 g
Sodium Sulfite (anhy) 44 g
Hydroquinone 12 g
Sodium Carbonate (anhy) 65 g
Potassium Bromide 2 g
Cold water to make 1000 ml

but i found, the stock solution is very easy to go brown,
usually in 3
to 5 days. i think that is not normal and hope for some
clues. thanks.

-
woody

A correction to the above, the amount of Sodium Carbonate
is for the monohydrated form, for anhydous carbonate reduce
the amount to 54 grams.
This is not the problem, the stock solution will probably
be a light straw color when mixed and should last about 6
months in a filled, closed bottle.
The rapid oxidation may be due to the method used to mix
the solution or perhaps to a defective ingredient. The Metol
and Hydroquinone should be white or gray. A slight tan
indicates some oxidation but it may still be OK. Neither
should be brown. Make sure the Sodium Sulfite is not
somthing else.
To mix use water which has been boiled for about five
minutes and allowed to stand undisturbed until cool. The
boiling will drive off most dissolved gasses and also remove
some minerals.
Pour off the clear water slowly so that air is not forced
into it.
Dissolve the Metol first, Metol will not dissolve in a
strong solution of Sulfite. It is sometimes suggested that a
small amount of Sulfite be mixed first (about 15 grams per
liter) to scavenge any gasses but the fist bit of Metol will
do that. Once the Metol is dissolved add the sulfite and
then the rest of the ingredients.
Stir constantly when mixing but the stirring should not
be so vigorous that it beats air into the solution. The
stirring need only to be strong enough to keep the particles
in suspension until they dissolve.
Water temperature is normally given as 125F or 52C.
However, if the ingredients will dissolve at a lower
temperature its desirable to prevent decomposition. Do not
use water hotter than 125F.
Each ingredient should be completely dissolved before
adding the next.

Agfa/Ansco/GAF 125 is an intermediate strength paper
developer. D-72/Dektol is stronger (more carbonate) and D-52
(Selectol) is much less active. Probably the closest other
developer to No.125 is Defender 55-D although the two are
not identical.
Agfa's closest formula to D-72 is No. 103, which is
nearly identical. Approximate equivalents a

Kodak D-72 (Dektol), Defender 53-D (Identical to D-72),
Agfa/Ansco 103
Kodak D-52 (Selectol), Defender 51-D (Identical), Agfa/Ansco
135
Kodak Selectol Soft (no published Kodak formula) Agfa/Ansco
120 (very similar)
Agfa/Ansco 125, similar but not identical to Defender 55-D
Kodak D-73 Blue-Black developer, Defender 54-D is identical,
Agfa/Ansco does not appear to have an equivalent.
Each company had certain formulas which were not
approximated by others (Agfa/Ansco 130 for example.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA




  #3  
Old August 3rd 06, 07:32 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Steven Woody
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 164
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated

Richard Knoppow wrote:
"Steven Woody" wrote in message
ps.com...
here is GAF-125 found in jack's photographic site which is
said to be
similar to kodak d-72,

Water (125°F/52°C) 750 ml
Metol 3 g
Sodium Sulfite (anhy) 44 g
Hydroquinone 12 g
Sodium Carbonate (anhy) 65 g
Potassium Bromide 2 g
Cold water to make 1000 ml

but i found, the stock solution is very easy to go brown,
usually in 3
to 5 days. i think that is not normal and hope for some
clues. thanks.

-
woody

A correction to the above, the amount of Sodium Carbonate
is for the monohydrated form, for anhydous carbonate reduce
the amount to 54 grams.


so, if i used 65g anhydous, that equals to 80g mono, that is exactly a
Kodak d-72 (dekol), is it? thank you for telling me that, on the other
hand, i don't care what i am using is a d-72 or gaf-125.

This is not the problem, the stock solution will probably
be a light straw color when mixed and should last about 6
months in a filled, closed bottle.


do you mean the stock solution will last 6 months or the mixed working
solution will last 6 months?

The rapid oxidation may be due to the method used to mix
the solution or perhaps to a defective ingredient. The Metol
and Hydroquinone should be white or gray. A slight tan
indicates some oxidation but it may still be OK. Neither
should be brown. Make sure the Sodium Sulfite is not
somthing else.


because i also mix d-76d film developer, so i think the metol,
hydroquinone as well as sodium sulfite is okay.

To mix use water which has been boiled for about five
minutes and allowed to stand undisturbed until cool. The
boiling will drive off most dissolved gasses and also remove
some minerals.


i use distiled water but no boiling before mix. i will accept you
advice but i am wondering if that can make such a big difference.

Pour off the clear water slowly so that air is not forced
into it.
Dissolve the Metol first, Metol will not dissolve in a
strong solution of Sulfite. It is sometimes suggested that a
small amount of Sulfite be mixed first (about 15 grams per
liter) to scavenge any gasses but the fist bit of Metol will
do that. Once the Metol is dissolved add the sulfite and
then the rest of the ingredients.
Stir constantly when mixing but the stirring should not
be so vigorous that it beats air into the solution. The
stirring need only to be strong enough to keep the particles
in suspension until they dissolve.
Water temperature is normally given as 125F or 52C.
However, if the ingredients will dissolve at a lower
temperature its desirable to prevent decomposition. Do not
use water hotter than 125F.
Each ingredient should be completely dissolved before
adding the next.

Agfa/Ansco/GAF 125 is an intermediate strength paper
developer. D-72/Dektol is stronger (more carbonate) and D-52
(Selectol) is much less active. Probably the closest other
developer to No.125 is Defender 55-D although the two are
not identical.
Agfa's closest formula to D-72 is No. 103, which is
nearly identical. Approximate equivalents a

Kodak D-72 (Dektol), Defender 53-D (Identical to D-72),
Agfa/Ansco 103
Kodak D-52 (Selectol), Defender 51-D (Identical), Agfa/Ansco
135
Kodak Selectol Soft (no published Kodak formula) Agfa/Ansco
120 (very similar)
Agfa/Ansco 125, similar but not identical to Defender 55-D
Kodak D-73 Blue-Black developer, Defender 54-D is identical,
Agfa/Ansco does not appear to have an equivalent.
Each company had certain formulas which were not
approximated by others (Agfa/Ansco 130 for example.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA


  #4  
Old August 3rd 06, 09:12 AM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Richard Knoppow
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 751
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated


"Steven Woody" wrote in message
ups.com...
Richard Knoppow wrote:
"Steven Woody" wrote in message
ps.com...
here is GAF-125 found in jack's photographic site which is
said to be
similar to kodak d-72,

Water (125°F/52°C) 750 ml
Metol 3 g
Sodium Sulfite (anhy) 44 g
Hydroquinone 12 g
Sodium Carbonate (anhy) 65 g
Potassium Bromide 2 g
Cold water to make 1000 ml

but i found, the stock solution is very easy to go brown,
usually in 3
to 5 days. i think that is not normal and hope for some
clues. thanks.

-
woody

A correction to the above, the amount of Sodium
Carbonate
is for the monohydrated form, for anhydous carbonate
reduce
the amount to 54 grams.


so, if i used 65g anhydous, that equals to 80g mono, that is
exactly a
Kodak d-72 (dekol), is it? thank you for telling me that,
on the other
hand, i don't care what i am using is a d-72 or gaf-125.

This is not the problem, the stock solution will
probably
be a light straw color when mixed and should last about 6
months in a filled, closed bottle.


do you mean the stock solution will last 6 months or the
mixed working
solution will last 6 months?

The rapid oxidation may be due to the method used to
mix
the solution or perhaps to a defective ingredient. The
Metol
and Hydroquinone should be white or gray. A slight tan
indicates some oxidation but it may still be OK. Neither
should be brown. Make sure the Sodium Sulfite is not
somthing else.


because i also mix d-76d film developer, so i think the
metol,
hydroquinone as well as sodium sulfite is okay.

To mix use water which has been boiled for about five
minutes and allowed to stand undisturbed until cool. The
boiling will drive off most dissolved gasses and also
remove
some minerals.


i use distiled water but no boiling before mix. i will
accept you
advice but i am wondering if that can make such a big
difference.

Pour off the clear water slowly so that air is not
forced
into it.
Dissolve the Metol first, Metol will not dissolve in a
strong solution of Sulfite. It is sometimes suggested that
a
small amount of Sulfite be mixed first (about 15 grams per
liter) to scavenge any gasses but the fist bit of Metol
will
do that. Once the Metol is dissolved add the sulfite and
then the rest of the ingredients.
Stir constantly when mixing but the stirring should not
be so vigorous that it beats air into the solution. The
stirring need only to be strong enough to keep the
particles
in suspension until they dissolve.
Water temperature is normally given as 125F or 52C.
However, if the ingredients will dissolve at a lower
temperature its desirable to prevent decomposition. Do not
use water hotter than 125F.
Each ingredient should be completely dissolved before
adding the next.

Agfa/Ansco/GAF 125 is an intermediate strength paper
developer. D-72/Dektol is stronger (more carbonate) and
D-52
(Selectol) is much less active. Probably the closest other
developer to No.125 is Defender 55-D although the two are
not identical.
Agfa's closest formula to D-72 is No. 103, which is
nearly identical. Approximate equivalents a

Kodak D-72 (Dektol), Defender 53-D (Identical to D-72),
Agfa/Ansco 103
Kodak D-52 (Selectol), Defender 51-D (Identical),
Agfa/Ansco
135
Kodak Selectol Soft (no published Kodak formula)
Agfa/Ansco
120 (very similar)
Agfa/Ansco 125, similar but not identical to Defender 55-D
Kodak D-73 Blue-Black developer, Defender 54-D is
identical,
Agfa/Ansco does not appear to have an equivalent.
Each company had certain formulas which were not
approximated by others (Agfa/Ansco 130 for example.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA


I suggested boiling in case you are using water with a
lot of air in it. Boiling drives off the air. It might not
make any difference but I was trying to list everything I
could think of that could cause the trouble. I forgot,
however, to ask about the container. What is it made of and
how well does it seal? Also, was it thoroughly clean when
you filled it. Some of this is pretty basic but its exactly
the kind of thing that gets overlooked.
The formula is very similar to several others that have
long shelf life so its not the formula itself.
My experience with Dektol is that it starts out slightly
yellow and becomes darker yellow slowly with time. It should
still be clear and only a somewhat darker yellow after
several months. Eventually, Dektol and similar developers
containing Hydroquinone will turn very dark brown and have a
peculiar odor.
I suggest mixing a small amount, perhaps 100ml, as a
test.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA




  #6  
Old August 3rd 06, 03:55 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Steven Woody
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 164
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated

ok, thanks for all your inputs, i will take your advices and see what
will happen next time. by far, i have one question left, after i
dilluted one part of stock dektol with 2 part of water and keep the
diluted working solution in a full glass bottle, how long is its shelf
life? i ask this because the working solution shelf life of paper
developer is more important to me than shelf life of stock solution.
for example, if i need 1.5L working solution for 8x10 paper, so i can
mix only and once a 500ml stock solution then make the 1.5L working
solution, from then on, what i need to keep and stand on is the working
solution rather than stock solution. you see, 1.5L can develop at least
twenty-five 8x10 papers, so i don't want to waste it.

thank you very much.

-
woody

  #7  
Old August 3rd 06, 08:09 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Richard Knoppow
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 751
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated


"Steven Woody" wrote in message
ups.com...
ok, thanks for all your inputs, i will take your advices
and see what
will happen next time. by far, i have one question left,
after i
dilluted one part of stock dektol with 2 part of water and
keep the
diluted working solution in a full glass bottle, how long
is its shelf
life? i ask this because the working solution shelf life
of paper
developer is more important to me than shelf life of stock
solution.
for example, if i need 1.5L working solution for 8x10
paper, so i can
mix only and once a 500ml stock solution then make the
1.5L working
solution, from then on, what i need to keep and stand on
is the working
solution rather than stock solution. you see, 1.5L can
develop at least
twenty-five 8x10 papers, so i don't want to waste it.

thank you very much.

-
woody

Diluted developer has a quite short life. Kodak lists the
life in a gallon tank as 2 weeks, you might get similar or
longer life in a bottle. It would depend on how much air the
developer is exposed to. In an open tray the life is about
24 hours. Anything that protects the developer from air will
extend its life.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA



  #8  
Old August 3rd 06, 08:11 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
Richard Knoppow
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 751
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated


"Steven Woody" wrote in message
ups.com...
ok, thanks for all your inputs, i will take your advices
and see what
will happen next time. by far, i have one question left,
after i
dilluted one part of stock dektol with 2 part of water and
keep the
diluted working solution in a full glass bottle, how long
is its shelf
life? i ask this because the working solution shelf life
of paper
developer is more important to me than shelf life of stock
solution.
for example, if i need 1.5L working solution for 8x10
paper, so i can
mix only and once a 500ml stock solution then make the
1.5L working
solution, from then on, what i need to keep and stand on
is the working
solution rather than stock solution. you see, 1.5L can
develop at least
twenty-five 8x10 papers, so i don't want to waste it.

thank you very much.

-
woody

BTW, if you must economise on developer you might
consider a slot processor like the Nova. These use
relatively small amounts of processing solutions and expose
relatively little of their surfaces to air.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA



  #9  
Old August 3rd 06, 11:25 PM posted to rec.photo.darkroom
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 137
Default GAF-125, very easy to be oxgenated

Steven Woody wrote:

... 1.5L can develop at least twenty-five 8x10 papers,
so i don't want to waste it. thank you very much. woody


I processed my last 8x10s using 1/4 liter. As an experiment
dilute a small amount or your stock 1:7. Pre wet the paper in the
tray, drain, then pour in the 1/4 liter of 1:7. Because the developer
is very dilute allow 5 minutes. Provide good agitation. Each print
will have fresh developer. If all goes well your one liter of stock
will then process 32 8x10s.
I usually experiment using 5x7 paper in half that, 1/8liter.
Plan your work ahead. If you've 4 8x10s to do a liter of 1:7 may
be your way to go. Dan

 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
LEARN HOW TO TURN $6 INTO THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS! EASY! johnnyride Digital Photography 0 March 19th 06 09:12 PM
TURN SIX DOLLARS INTO $6000 EASY AND HONESTLY!!! [email protected] Digital Photography 1 December 12th 05 05:14 PM
Easy to use camera recommendations please Dan Wojciechowski Digital Photography 0 October 15th 05 06:47 PM
Easy Photo Print Upgrades/Alternatives John Keiser Digital SLR Cameras 2 May 22nd 05 07:07 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 PhotoBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.