Newbie question - Correct exposure for Velvia

Hi All,

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed. Very dark in the
shadows with little or no detail. I was using Aperture Priority
mostly, so the camera was choosing a shutter speed to provide what it
thought was a correct exposure. I was using 3d matrix metering and
mostly taking shots outside. I let the camera choose the film speed
via dx.

Is this normal? Is there a rule of thumb for getting a more even
exposure? Should I bracket my next film?

I hope this isn't a dumb question, I'm new to photography, not just
velvia.

Any thoughts appreciated,

Marc

Dmitry ) wrote...
I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed

snip

Is this the first roll of slide film that you've put through the
camera?

If so, it's possible that the meter is a little bit off in your
camera. You'll probably never notice with colour negative film, as
it has a much greater exposure latitude, and the processing lab can
"correct" any errors in your exposure at the printing stage.

Slide film is not so lenient.

Check your meter against a friends camera if you can, or else against
the "sunny f/16" rule. This basically states that on a sunny day the
exposure of a well-lit scene (with the sun behind you) should by the
reciprocal of the film speed at f/16.

More info: http://www.photomigrations.com/articles/0403200.htm

Regards,

Ian
--
Ian Riches
Bedford, UK

Dmitry ) wrote...
I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed

snip

Is this the first roll of slide film that you've put through the
camera?

If so, it's possible that the meter is a little bit off in your
camera. You'll probably never notice with colour negative film, as
it has a much greater exposure latitude, and the processing lab can
"correct" any errors in your exposure at the printing stage.

Slide film is not so lenient.

Check your meter against a friends camera if you can, or else against
the "sunny f/16" rule. This basically states that on a sunny day the
exposure of a well-lit scene (with the sun behind you) should by the
reciprocal of the film speed at f/16.

More info: http://www.photomigrations.com/articles/0403200.htm

Regards,

Ian
--
Ian Riches
Bedford, UK

In article ,
Dmitry wrote:
Hi All,

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed. Very dark in the
shadows with little or no detail. I was using Aperture Priority
mostly, so the camera was choosing a shutter speed to provide what it
thought was a correct exposure. I was using 3d matrix metering and
mostly taking shots outside. I let the camera choose the film speed
via dx.

Is this normal? Is there a rule of thumb for getting a more even
exposure? Should I bracket my next film?

The blacks of Velvia are very black indeed, so even slight underexposure
will result in a seriously dark slide. Usually detail can be rescued by
scanning though.

Slide film is very sensitive to exposure though. It might be worth switching
to spot metering, dialing in +2 stops exposure compensation and metering for
the highlights (assuming your camera supports all of this - I'm not
familliar with the Nikon SLRs). Maybe exposure bracket the tricky ones
(after all, film is cheap ;-)).

In article ,
Dmitry wrote:
Hi All,

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed. Very dark in the
shadows with little or no detail. I was using Aperture Priority
mostly, so the camera was choosing a shutter speed to provide what it
thought was a correct exposure. I was using 3d matrix metering and
mostly taking shots outside. I let the camera choose the film speed
via dx.

Is this normal? Is there a rule of thumb for getting a more even
exposure? Should I bracket my next film?

The blacks of Velvia are very black indeed, so even slight underexposure
will result in a seriously dark slide. Usually detail can be rescued by
scanning though.

Slide film is very sensitive to exposure though. It might be worth switching
to spot metering, dialing in +2 stops exposure compensation and metering for
the highlights (assuming your camera supports all of this - I'm not
familliar with the Nikon SLRs). Maybe exposure bracket the tricky ones
(after all, film is cheap ;-)).

Ian Riches wrote:

Dmitry ) wrote...

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed


snip

Is this the first roll of slide film that you've put through the
camera?

If so, it's possible that the meter is a little bit off in your
camera. You'll probably never notice with colour negative film, as
it has a much greater exposure latitude, and the processing lab can
"correct" any errors in your exposure at the printing stage.

Slide film is not so lenient.

Check your meter against a friends camera if you can, or else against
the "sunny f/16" rule. This basically states that on a sunny day the
exposure of a well-lit scene (with the sun behind you) should by the
reciprocal of the film speed at f/16.

That is fine if he's metering a mid tone scene... if he's
pointing that at a ski slope, or a black car, he won't get the
right reading. If he has a grey card and the camera has a spot
metere or at least heavilly ctr weighted meter, he can use that.

I'll suggest following though... on a bright, clear sunny day,
put a clean dry styrofoam coffee cup over the lens. Point the
lens at the horizon in the direction of the sun.... that will
give very close to sunny-16 and indicate if there is a meter problem.

Cheers,
Alan


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Ian Riches wrote:

Dmitry ) wrote...

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed


snip

Is this the first roll of slide film that you've put through the
camera?

If so, it's possible that the meter is a little bit off in your
camera. You'll probably never notice with colour negative film, as
it has a much greater exposure latitude, and the processing lab can
"correct" any errors in your exposure at the printing stage.

Slide film is not so lenient.

Check your meter against a friends camera if you can, or else against
the "sunny f/16" rule. This basically states that on a sunny day the
exposure of a well-lit scene (with the sun behind you) should by the
reciprocal of the film speed at f/16.

That is fine if he's metering a mid tone scene... if he's
pointing that at a ski slope, or a black car, he won't get the
right reading. If he has a grey card and the camera has a spot
metere or at least heavilly ctr weighted meter, he can use that.

I'll suggest following though... on a bright, clear sunny day,
put a clean dry styrofoam coffee cup over the lens. Point the
lens at the horizon in the direction of the sun.... that will
give very close to sunny-16 and indicate if there is a meter problem.

Cheers,
Alan


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Dmitry wrote:

Hi All,

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed. Very dark in the
shadows with little or no detail. I was using Aperture Priority
mostly, so the camera was choosing a shutter speed to provide what it
thought was a correct exposure. I was using 3d matrix metering and
mostly taking shots outside. I let the camera choose the film speed
via dx.

If the 'color' areas of the shot look right (good saturation and
detail), and the shaddows look underepxosed ... then everything
is probably just right... Velvia is fairly narrow in exposure
latitude.

To shoot slide film you must compose scenes where everything you
want in detail fits in the exposure latitude of the film. An
in-camera spot meter is very useful to "survey" the scene to make
sure it fits in the latitude of the film. To help with this,
avoid shooting at the contrastiest part of the day, noon.
Instead shoot in the morning or later afternoon. This will give
more even lighting to and around your subject and fit in the
latitude of the film.

Is this normal? Is there a rule of thumb for getting a more even
exposure? Should I bracket my next film?

All bracketing does is move the exposure ... if you get more
detail in the shaddows, then you will wash out color and blow
highlights, and vice-versa.

The 'trick' that slide film shooters often use is to spot the
highlight in a scene (say something white in the same light as
the subject). Point the camera at that white area, in spot meter
mode, take the reading and then open up 1.5 to 2 stops (stops of
aperture or equivalent speed). For the film in question I open
up 1+2/3 stops from the highlight; for Sensia I open up 2 stops.


I hope this isn't a dumb question, I'm new to photography, not just
velvia.

Try a kinder and gentler slide film like Sensia 100. It is more
neutral in color but has a little more exposure latitude than
Velvia (50 or 100F). Avoid shooting in high contrast light (mid
day). Try shooting in open shade light (consider an 81A/B filter
if you do that to reduce the blue).

It will take you a few rolls to get used to it ... so step down
from the expensive films until you do.

Cheers,
Alan

PS: Verify your meter: On a bright sunny day, put a clean dry
styrofoam coffee cup over your lens. Point it towards the
horizon in the direction of the sun. For ISO 50, in A-pri at
f/16 you should get a reading of speed=ISO=50 (60, 40 are okay).

Or, if you have a spot meter in the camera, then with your back
to the sun (08:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 17:00) meter off of an 18%
grey card that is perpendicular to the lens axis. Same result as
above.

But, I bet your meter is not the problem.


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

PGG wrote:

Check your meter against a friends camera if you can, or else against
the "sunny f/16" rule. This basically states that on a sunny day the
exposure of a well-lit scene (with the sun behind you) should by the
reciprocal of the film speed at f/16.



This is _not_ a good way to check your meter! Depending on what area of
the world you live in, even on a sunny day, it may very well be the "sunny
f/11" or "sunny f/8" rule.


1 stop, __maybe__. 2 stops, forget it.

The sky must be clear of clouds and haze, and the reading should
be a couple hours before or after the sun is at zenith. The grey
card or styro cup method is best.

--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

(Dmitry) wrote in message . com...

Generally speaking one does not use automatic exposure with slide
films. One uses manual exposure and brackets a little when the subject
matter allows it.


Hi All,

I just shot my first roll of Velvia on my new (secondhand) F80. I
loved the colours, and the detail, especially on some close up flower
shots. However, the images were all underexposed. Very dark in the
shadows with little or no detail. I was using Aperture Priority
mostly, so the camera was choosing a shutter speed to provide what it
thought was a correct exposure. I was using 3d matrix metering and
mostly taking shots outside. I let the camera choose the film speed
via dx.

Is this normal? Is there a rule of thumb for getting a more even
exposure? Should I bracket my next film?

I hope this isn't a dumb question, I'm new to photography, not just
velvia.

Any thoughts appreciated,

Marc