push processing kodak tx400

Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process?
Kate

Kate wrote:

Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process?
Kate



The best developer, IMO, for taking Tri-X to EI 1600 is Diafine. No
special development needed; 1600 is the "normal" speed for this
combination. Just three minutes in Bath A and another three in Bath B,
just enough agitation to ensure you don't have air bells. Use a water
stop instead of acid stop (stop isn't really needed, other than to
prevent carry-over into the fixer, but the carbonate alkali in Bath B
can produce pinholes in a strong acid stop).

Failing availability of Diafine, doubling your development time should
get you close to a two stop push with your existing developer.

--
The challenge to the photographer is to command the medium, to use
whatever current equipment and technology furthers his creative
objectives, without sacrificing the ability to make his own decisions.
-- Ansel Adams

Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer http://silent1.home.netcom.com

Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.

Kate,
TMAX is pretty good for pushing up to 1600 (I have used it for concert
photography). A little grainy of course and much contrasted, but pretty good
definition.
Good luck,
Emmanuel

"Kate" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process?
Kate

"Kate" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).

Edwal FG-7 with sodium sulphite 15% is pretty good.

"Kate" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process?
Kate

I haven't tried the new 400TX, but the older TX (400 speed) was easy to push
to 1600 with almost any developer, if you don't mind increased contrast and
grain. Try increasing the developing time 50%.

I am guessing Jessops Econodev Universal is probably a
phenidone-hydroquinone developer. If so, that's good.

"Kate" wrote in message ...
Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process?
Kate

Pushing does not work. Forget it.

U¿ytkownik "Kate" napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci

Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops
Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase
development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this
process?
Kate, this is what I've been advised here sometime ago and it worked
wonderfully. I copy the previous message:
"Baz"
try cook it this way: twenty celsius degrees for about fourteen
minutes
std agitation, if you're on a difflight source. but maybe that
eighteen-twenty same temp 1+1 D23/water will raise up shads a bit
without loose highs.
I think D23 is right to cutoff some grain from tx.
If you want to read the whole discussion, it's he
http://groups.google.pl/groups?hl=pl...246au%241%40in
ews.gazeta.pl&rnum=8&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dgroup:rec.photo.darkroom%2Baut
hor:Magdalena%26hl%3Dpl%26lr%3D%26as_drrb%3Db%26as _mind%3D12%26as_minm
%3D4%26as_miny%3D2004%26as_maxd%3D28%26as_maxm%3D1 0%26as_maxy%3D2004%2
6selm%3Dcb6h0e%25246au%25241%2540inews.gazeta.pl%2 6rnum%3D8

Regards,
Magdalena

Kate wrote:
: Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev
: Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development
: time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
: If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process?
: Kate

Keep in mind that "push" processing doesn't actually increase the film speed
by any meaningfull amount. You won't gain much if anything in the shadows. It
does increase the contrast which means that it will help in the midtones and
highlights.

I would suggest that you only "push" TX400 (TMY) one stop and make use of the
exposure lattitude built into the film. In fact the the book from Kodak called
"Kodak Professional Black and White Films" suggest that for a one stop push you
not alter the development time at all.
--




Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
-------------------

"Kate" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with
Jessops Econodev
Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to
increase development
time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops).
If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended
for this process?
Kate

I have no idea what is in Jessops developer. Good push
developers are Kodak T-Max and T-Max RS (probably the best,
Kodak Xtol, Ilford Microphen. There are probably others but
these work well.
You can not really increase film speed. Pushing increases
contrast. Since the low exposure part of the film curve has
lower contrast than the rest you can increase it to where it
becomes more printable but you are also increasing the rest
of the curve so the highlights will become very contrasty.
Tri-X ISO 400 will push to around EI-1000 with decent
results but at EI-1600 the negatives are going to be very
contrasty and grainy and there may not be much shadow
detail. At some point the exposure is too low to record an
image at all so increasing contrast won't help.
Because of the way the ISO speed standard is written there
is not much underexposure latitude, two stops is about the
limit. You would do better to use one of the super speed
films like T-Max P3200 or the Ilford or Fuji equivalent. At
EI 1600 these films are working near their actual speed.
They will have significantly better tonal rendition and be
easier to print than a pushed slower film. If you are stuck
with Tri-X then I suggest T-Max RS for pushing.


--
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA

You would do better to use one of the super speed
films like T-Max P3200 or the Ilford or Fuji equivalent. At
EI 1600 these films are working near their actual speed.
They will have significantly better tonal rendition and be
easier to print than a pushed slower film.

I totally agree.
In my little experience @3200 the best is Ilford Delta 3200. That i use
usually with my Rolleiflex, and developed in MIcrophen at nominal speed
give only a slight grain. True, it hase some grain on 30x30cm, but is
not so noticeable and is, more important for me, well distributed on the
image. I think that developing is everything, expecially with this
lightning fast emulsions. Used Microphen stock, at ilford time +15%-
If I have to expose @1600 ISO fuji Neopan developed in id-11 1+1 is
perfect and unsurpassed. Seems to have the rendition of a normal Neopan
400!! amazing.
For higher ISo setting I prefer T-max. Once I exposed just for a try at
ISO 12500. Uhmm, yes printable and there is image. But to use in extreme
conditions. Everything writen above is my personal experience for 6x6
format.

For 35mm format i suggest to use only Neopan or ilford Delta. The last
one still remains for me the best of this class. But never tried to push
over 12500. At 6400 it's contrasty and grainy like snowballs... but is
some kind of pictures it's the best!!

ciao!!

--
Non è bello cio che è bello figuriamoci cio che è brutto!