Low-light spotmeters

Hello,

I do a lot of low-light photography, usually using spotmetering to determine
exposure. At present I am using a Gossen Profisix (US - Luna Pro SBC) with
spotmetering attachment. This gives me a metering capability of down to -2
EV at ISO 100. The problem with this setup is that the meter plus
attachment is extremely bulky. I'm hoping to replace this with a dedicated
spotmeter to reduce bulk and at the same time retain the same low-light
capability.

Does anybody know of a meter (new or old) that I could get as a suitable
replacement for the above?

Many thanks,

DAM

--
Donald A Morrison

"Donald A. Morrison" wrote in message
om...
Hello,

I do a lot of low-light photography, usually using spotmetering to
determine
exposure. At present I am using a Gossen Profisix (US - Luna Pro SBC)
with
spotmetering attachment. This gives me a metering capability of down
to -2
EV at ISO 100. The problem with this setup is that the meter plus
attachment is extremely bulky. I'm hoping to replace this with a
dedicated
spotmeter to reduce bulk and at the same time retain the same low-light
capability.

Does anybody know of a meter (new or old) that I could get as a suitable
replacement for the above?

Many thanks,


Donald,

I have a Sekonic L-558. Reads down to EV -2 as well and is purported by
the manufacturer as the lowest light reading lightmeter around. Not sure if
it's true or not (I seem to remember while researching which light meter I'd
buy the Gossen Starlight went lower, but not by much), but it does offer the
spot meter attachment integrated into the same housing as well as incident
and reflective capabilities. Not to mention the flash metering as well. I
have found it to be a great all-around meter with the full program of
features and very accurate. You might want to look at one of these (or the
Starlight) and keep all the features you're looking for without loosing
other unforeseen features in the future.

Jim

P.S. The Sekonic is running about $390 on that auction site.

In message
"Jim Phelps" wrote:


Donald,

I have a Sekonic L-558. Reads down to EV -2 as well and is purported by
the manufacturer as the lowest light reading lightmeter around. Not sure if
it's true or not (I seem to remember while researching which light meter I'd
buy the Gossen Starlight went lower, but not by much), but it does offer the
spot meter attachment integrated into the same housing as well as incident
and reflective capabilities. Not to mention the flash metering as well. I
have found it to be a great all-around meter with the full program of
features and very accurate. You might want to look at one of these (or the
Starlight) and keep all the features you're looking for without loosing
other unforeseen features in the future.

Jim




Hello,

Many thanks to you and to all who offered advice. Sorry for not responding
sooner, I've been away from a computer for the past week.

I took a look at the Sekonic, as far as I can tell from the spec sheet the
EV -2 seems to apply only to incident metering. Spot metering seems to be
limited to EV 1. The Gossen Starlight also seems to be similarly
restricted. I also took a look at the various Pentax spotmeters and, true
to form, they stop measuring at EV 1.

Does anybody have any other meters to suggest? If not then I think that I
will end up going with the Sekonic, my current setup is just too bulky to be
manageable even though I need the extra sensitivity.

Many thanks,

Donald

--
Donald A Morrison

In message
"Jim Phelps" wrote:


Donald,

I have a Sekonic L-558. Reads down to EV -2 as well and is purported by
the manufacturer as the lowest light reading lightmeter around. Not sure if
it's true or not (I seem to remember while researching which light meter I'd
buy the Gossen Starlight went lower, but not by much), but it does offer the
spot meter attachment integrated into the same housing as well as incident
and reflective capabilities. Not to mention the flash metering as well. I
have found it to be a great all-around meter with the full program of
features and very accurate. You might want to look at one of these (or the
Starlight) and keep all the features you're looking for without loosing
other unforeseen features in the future.

Jim




Hello,

Many thanks to you and to all who offered advice. Sorry for not responding
sooner, I've been away from a computer for the past week.

I took a look at the Sekonic, as far as I can tell from the spec sheet the
EV -2 seems to apply only to incident metering. Spot metering seems to be
limited to EV 1. The Gossen Starlight also seems to be similarly
restricted. I also took a look at the various Pentax spotmeters and, true
to form, they stop measuring at EV 1.

Does anybody have any other meters to suggest? If not then I think that I
will end up going with the Sekonic, my current setup is just too bulky to be
manageable even though I need the extra sensitivity.

Many thanks,

Donald

--
Donald A Morrison

Donald A. Morrison wrote:

Does anybody have any other meters to suggest? If not then I think that I
will end up going with the Sekonic, my current setup is just too bulky to be
manageable even though I need the extra sensitivity.

Could you describe the shooting you do where you need this low
light sensitivity? Offhand I don't know of a meter that goes
lower, but there are likely other ways to determine your exposure
requirement.


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Donald A. Morrison wrote:

Does anybody have any other meters to suggest? If not then I think that I
will end up going with the Sekonic, my current setup is just too bulky to be
manageable even though I need the extra sensitivity.

Could you describe the shooting you do where you need this low
light sensitivity? Offhand I don't know of a meter that goes
lower, but there are likely other ways to determine your exposure
requirement.


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

In message
Alan Browne wrote:

Donald A. Morrison wrote:

Does anybody have any other meters to suggest? If not then I think that I
will end up going with the Sekonic, my current setup is just too bulky to be
manageable even though I need the extra sensitivity.

Could you describe the shooting you do where you need this low
light sensitivity? Offhand I don't know of a meter that goes
lower, but there are likely other ways to determine your exposure
requirement.



Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).

Donald.

--
Donald A Morrison

Donald A. Morrison wrote:


Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).

Well, then don't bother metering. It's not needed. Further, a
lot of these shots are up at about EV 8 - 11 in any case. See
the links below to convert the EV into speed and f/stop for your
film.

(Or compute it based on EV = 1 stop where EV 0 = f/1.0 for 1
second at ISO 100.)

For landscapes:
-10 minutes B4 sunset: EV 11
-just after sunset: EV 10
-10 min. after: EV 9

The last one includes lit city skylines

Snowsacape lit by a full moon (long after sunset)
EV -2

Landscape lit by a full moon (long after sunet)
EV -3

half moon EV -4

cressent moon EV -5

starlight EV -6 (or less).

I've done all of the above except starlight, half/cresent moon.
Works fine. On negative film double the exposure with no risk.

Cheers,
Alan

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.ht...ensity%20Chart
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.ht...%20CHA RT%20B


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Donald A. Morrison wrote:


Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).

Well, then don't bother metering. It's not needed. Further, a
lot of these shots are up at about EV 8 - 11 in any case. See
the links below to convert the EV into speed and f/stop for your
film.

(Or compute it based on EV = 1 stop where EV 0 = f/1.0 for 1
second at ISO 100.)

For landscapes:
-10 minutes B4 sunset: EV 11
-just after sunset: EV 10
-10 min. after: EV 9

The last one includes lit city skylines

Snowsacape lit by a full moon (long after sunset)
EV -2

Landscape lit by a full moon (long after sunet)
EV -3

half moon EV -4

cressent moon EV -5

starlight EV -6 (or less).

I've done all of the above except starlight, half/cresent moon.
Works fine. On negative film double the exposure with no risk.

Cheers,
Alan

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.ht...ensity%20Chart
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.ht...%20CHA RT%20B


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

Rich Pos wrote:

On Wed, 08 Sep 2004 21:00:41 +0100, Donald A. Morrison
wrote:


Mostly for landscape photography, at dusk and twilight. From time to time I
also photography urban architecture, also after sunset (or before sunrise).


Meter off the brightest part of the scene then compensate.
I.E. Meter streetlight ....
-5 stops for scene exposure (just an example) This way your meter

Do you mean metering the light itself?

From my way of seeing it, it would be the opposite ... if you
point a meter at a light, it believes there's more light than
there really is on the scene... not sure about your number of
stops, but let's assume 5 stops is correct:

point at light, read: 1/500 f/8

So open up (+5) stops to shoot the scene... 1/15 f/8


--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--