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What do you pay for developing?



 
 
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  #11  
Old May 3rd 09, 10:03 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
K W Hart
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Posts: 142
Default What do you pay for developing?


"Michael" wrote in message
news:2009050312382516807-adunc79617@mypacksnet...
On 2009-05-02 22:09:47 -0400, "Ric Trexell" said:


"Toni Nikkanen" wrote in message
...

I'd like to point it out that nowadays, if someone is displeased with
the quality, service, speed or pricing of colour negative development,
it's not that much of a trouble to do it yourself, especially if
you've ever done B&W negative developing before. It's not too much
more trouble with today's 3-bath kits. And you don't need a darkroom,
all you need is a kitchen sink, a tank and a black "strait jacket" type
film changing bag.

************************************************** ******
Yes, and if you are going to only scan the negatives, you can get by
without
and enlarger and all the other stuff that goes with printing. Good
point,
it is something to consider if more places drop developing. Ric.


And slides also. It looks as though Dwayne's will be in it for the
duration as long as Kodachrome is produced, and E6 is no more difficult to
home process than C41, just a couple of extra steps. You get slides for
projection (if you like) and scanning.
--
Michael


E6 processing (for Ektachrome and others) may be the same number of steps as
C41, depending in which variaition of the process you use. K14 (for
Kodachrome) is not a home process, at least not for actual color slides. The
downside of C41 and E6 is temperature control and the storage life of the
chemicals. The developer must have minimal contact with air for longest life
and even then, the life is only a couple weeks.

Actually, printing color negs (RA4) is not that difficult either. Again the
biggest issue is temp control and shelf life. But if you use a mechanized
processor of some type, it's not much more difficult than B&W. I prefer
roller transport processors rather than the tube types.


  #12  
Old May 3rd 09, 10:11 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Toni Nikkanen
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Posts: 255
Default What do you pay for developing?

"K W Hart" writes:

E6 processing (for Ektachrome and others) may be the same number of steps as
C41, depending in which variaition of the process you use. K14 (for
Kodachrome) is not a home process, at least not for actual color slides. The
downside of C41 and E6 is temperature control and the storage life of the
chemicals. The developer must have minimal contact with air for longest life
and even then, the life is only a couple weeks.


Lots of people have found that at least for Tetenal's C41 chemistry, temperature
control and storage life are not even nearly as critical as one could imagine
given the manufacturer's recommendations.

Basically, if you fill a kitchen sink with 40C water, put your processing tank
and bottles with chemicals in it, let it cool down to 38.5C, then start processing,
the temperature will stay in the 37.5-38.5C range allowed within the tolerances
of said chemicals, during the 3:15 - 4:30min processing times, with no extra
work involved.

Shelf life of mixed chemicals is also typically multiple times that of promised. If
you're really worried you can of course mix only half of the chemicals for use
at a time, but after going through 2 sets of Tetenal 1-liter sets of C41 chemistry
and quite frankly, abusing it way beyond promised longevity, I'm no longer worried
about it at all. Hell, I use 1L plastic (PET) lemonade bottles for storing the
stuff! Of course I squeeze all the extra air out etc. but still...


I've yet to try the E-6 stuff, because I do somewhat less slides AND my local lab
is probably the best E-6 lab in the country. But eventually I will.


  #13  
Old May 4th 09, 02:11 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
K W Hart
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Posts: 142
Default What do you pay for developing?


"Toni Nikkanen" wrote in message
...
"K W Hart" writes:

E6 processing (for Ektachrome and others) may be the same number of steps
as
C41, depending in which variaition of the process you use. K14 (for
Kodachrome) is not a home process, at least not for actual color slides.
The
downside of C41 and E6 is temperature control and the storage life of the
chemicals. The developer must have minimal contact with air for longest
life
and even then, the life is only a couple weeks.


Lots of people have found that at least for Tetenal's C41 chemistry,
temperature
control and storage life are not even nearly as critical as one could
imagine
given the manufacturer's recommendations.


I've never used Tetenal's product, so I can't speak about the storage life.
As for temperature control, if you are doing critical work where one roll
has to match the next roll, temperature control is more important. But not
everyone is doing such critical work...

Basically, if you fill a kitchen sink with 40C water, put your processing
tank
and bottles with chemicals in it, let it cool down to 38.5C, then start
processing,
the temperature will stay in the 37.5-38.5C range allowed within the
tolerances
of said chemicals, during the 3:15 - 4:30min processing times, with no
extra
work involved.


There is a temp control procedure called "drift-by". Basically, you
determine how much heat will be lost (or gained if your darkroom is over
100F!) and you start out at a higher temperature. The average temp will be
correct.

Shelf life of mixed chemicals is also typically multiple times that of
promised. If
you're really worried you can of course mix only half of the chemicals for
use
at a time, but after going through 2 sets of Tetenal 1-liter sets of C41
chemistry
and quite frankly, abusing it way beyond promised longevity, I'm no longer
worried
about it at all. Hell, I use 1L plastic (PET) lemonade bottles for storing
the
stuff! Of course I squeeze all the extra air out etc. but still...



Manufacturers are usually very conservative in their product ratings.
Fortunately C-41 developer (like many B&W developers) goes dark as it ages.
The darker it is, the more risky it is to use it.
I mix 2L at a time, so I use 2L Coke bottles for my developer. If you are
using soda/drink bottles for chem storage, please make sure that no one will
mistake your chems for what was originally in the bottle. The bleach I
replenish and reuse, and the Fixer and Stabilizer I mix 5 gallons at a time
and store in 5 gallon tanks with floating lids.

I've yet to try the E-6 stuff, because I do somewhat less slides AND my
local lab
is probably the best E-6 lab in the country. But eventually I will.

The toughest thing I've found about E-6 is mounting the slides! I have
trouble making the cuts between the frames, proably because it's black
instead of clear.


  #14  
Old May 14th 09, 11:28 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Hans Koana
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Posts: 7
Default What do you pay for developing?

Ric Trexell schrieb:
"K W Hart" wrote in message
...
"Ric Trexell" wrote in message
net...
" The price you are paying is very attractive. The price you quote for
35mm
($2.44)- is that for two week turnaround or one hour? I suspect that

the
processing was incorrectly coded in the store's computer. Don't be too
suprized if it suddenly goes up.
************************************************** ********************
The price for 35mm has always been very low. I'm not talking about 1

roll
but many rolls.

************************************************** *******
Please define "many rolls". I've taken a half dozen rolls of 35mm into my
local WalMart, and the price has always been about $7 each for one hour
processing. No one has ever said anything about a quantity deal.

************************************************** *********************
I didn't use good wording there. The point you made was that it could have
been a mistake on that one roll. I was saying that the prices of several
rolls, meaning over the last few months or years have been low. They ship
everything out to a Fuji lab and I learned this weekend (because a 120 roll
was labeled as 110 and misplaced) that they, the Fuji lab, sends some of
there film out. Yes, film developing has dropped off there at Wal-Mart and
that is why they only pick up during the week. I remember many times in the
past when I would drop my film into the container and it was packed. Now
there are about 10 rolls being sent off. I still like film for the color
and other things. Plus I can scan it so I have the best of both worlds.
The day may come when film users will need to either send it somewhere half
way around the world for developing or have our own darkroom. Right now
with $1.44 developing for 120 film, I can't afford to monkey with a
darkroom. Ric.



.... but you can afford to monkey with an great and heavy camera that
needs a trustable tripod and some time to operate to produce
6x7-pictures ... only for giving them away at Walmarts?

you need a thermometer, a developping tank, some liquids and some time -
even for zone system. you do not need a darkroom to process your films.

if you can not afford exposing a dozen rolls of film, reduce your
efforts to the max and try to expose only ten or a dozen of pictures.

greetings

hans
  #15  
Old May 14th 09, 11:29 AM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
Hans Koana
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Posts: 7
Default What do you pay for developing?

Toni Nikkanen schrieb:
I'd like to point it out that nowadays, if someone is displeased with
the quality, service, speed or pricing of colour negative development,
it's not that much of a trouble to do it yourself, especially if
you've ever done B&W negative developing before. It's not too much
more trouble with today's 3-bath kits. And you don't need a darkroom,
all you need is a kitchen sink, a tank and a black "strait jacket" type
film changing bag.


yes, you are right!
  #16  
Old May 24th 09, 09:07 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
scenic_man[_3_]
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Posts: 3
Default What do you pay for developing?

K W Hart wrote:

The toughest thing I've found about E-6 is mounting the slides! I have
trouble making the cuts between the frames, proably because it's black
instead of clear.


Hmmm. There is a device that model railroaders (or railroad modelers) use,
mostly in connection with construction of scale buildings.
The brand name is "The Chopper".
It is essentially a small-scale device *similar* to a paper cutter,
except that it can cut through thin sheets of wood or styrene plastic,
and it uses a *straight* blade (actually, I think it's just a single-edge
razor blade) to guarantee straight cuts.

The Chopper might help you make the cuts straight across, but if your problem
is locating the cuts halfway between one frame and the next,
that product may not help you. (I don't happen to own one, so I'm not sure.)

However, a clever person could probably build a similar device,
and equip it with a sliding jig for the sprocket holes,
which jig could be screwed down tight when you had the frames aligned
with the sprocket holes for a given roll of film.
Of course, you might have to re-align that for each roll of film.
  #17  
Old May 25th 09, 09:45 PM posted to rec.photo.equipment.medium-format
K W Hart
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 142
Default What do you pay for developing?


"scenic_man" wrote in message
...
K W Hart wrote:

The toughest thing I've found about E-6 is mounting the slides! I have
trouble making the cuts between the frames, proably because it's black
instead of clear.


Hmmm. There is a device that model railroaders (or railroad modelers)
use,
mostly in connection with construction of scale buildings.
The brand name is "The Chopper".
It is essentially a small-scale device *similar* to a paper cutter,
except that it can cut through thin sheets of wood or styrene plastic,
and it uses a *straight* blade (actually, I think it's just a single-edge
razor blade) to guarantee straight cuts.

The Chopper might help you make the cuts straight across, but if your
problem
is locating the cuts halfway between one frame and the next,
that product may not help you. (I don't happen to own one, so I'm not
sure.)

However, a clever person could probably build a similar device,
and equip it with a sliding jig for the sprocket holes,
which jig could be screwed down tight when you had the frames aligned
with the sprocket holes for a given roll of film.
Of course, you might have to re-align that for each roll of film.


Actually, I purchased (Noritsu, used on eBay) a commercial slide mounter.
You feed in the roll of film, and using an advance knob, locate a frame
between two lines. Press a button and it cuts and mounts the second frame
away from the viewing area. Only problem is that it uses a plastic mount and
I still have the better part of a box of 500 cardboard ones!


 




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