"Hans Koana" wrote in message
...
Lawrence Akutagawa schrieb:
"Hans Koana" wrote in message
...
David Nebenzahl schrieb:
On 12/8/2008 7:24 AM Hans Koana spake thus:

yesterday, in a dark church, where i photographed some dark choir
stalls, i underexposed a kodak 125px (3 stops). normally i push it to
get good grey values, which is not so bad because i shooted a roll of
That would be "I shot a roll" in English.

120-film (6x6). but when i made the photographs i exposed very long
time
so contrast will be enhanced a lot because of the effect of
reciprocity.
i exposed 45 sec instead of 200 sec.

normally i develop in kodak hc 110 - b, n+0: 6,5 min. n+1: 9 min, n+2
12,5 min. what do you mean? should i take n+2, loose 2 stops, so that
zone v falls down at iii, whith a contrast of 3 zones, enforced by
this
long-time-exposure?
Seems to me that's all you *can* do; otherwise, you're going to
completely lose whatever shadow detail you have, or get a low-contrast,
difficult-to-print negative.
I do not know wether this development (N+2) would be wrong because the
scene is very dark, with wooden figures that come out of the dark
background. I Will try it again. Thank you. Regards H.K.

If you are in fact able to try it again, I strongly suggest that you
bracket. If your base exposure is 200 sec (over 3 minutes!), try in
addition to 200 sec exposures of 400 sec and 800 sec.

Hello,

I have got to take the train from Bern to Romont (50km). The calculated
exposure time as indicated on my Gossen Lunasix F is t=30sec (c.e.),
f=11, ASA 125, with incident light metering. Following the instructions
by Kodak, I need t=200sec (a.e.) as the adjusted exposure time. And I
have got to adjust the development -30%, what means N-1, to avoid
lighter zones that are too contrasty.

But you're right: it is better to bracket than loosing an exposure. For
this reason I will bracket and try an additional exposure time of
t=60sec (c.e.) / t=550sec (a.e.) (one stop). This is nearly in the
middle of your two suggestions. The contrast of the scene is not so wide
(about 4 zones max.), and this is why 1/3 stop of under- or overexposure
is not so difficult to manage.

For what it is worth, here's another idea -

I surmise you are shooting 120 6x6. Bracket the first four exposures
however you want. Place the lens cap back on the camera and shoot the next
four frames. Take the lens cap off and bracket the last four exposures
exactly as you did the first. In the darkroom, carefully remove the paper
backing of the film and cut the film in half so you have four exposures in
each half. Placing the second half in a light tight place, load the first
half in the developing tank and develop as you see fit. Examine the
developed and fixed first half. If you are satisfied, fine. If you are
not, you then have a benchmark against which you can now develop the second
half.