View Single Post
  #6  
Old June 13th 09, 01:08 AM posted to rec.photo.digital
Ignoring the dSLR-Trolls
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2
Default A newbie request help selecting digital camera

On Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:07:29 -0500, Kris Krieger wrote:

Hello!

I've been using a nice Minolta with Fuji ASA 100 film and a modest telephoto
lens. I've occasionalyl gotten some very decent nature photos, but have had
trouble getting the hnag of exposure times - and it costs more and more to
develop "experiments".

So I started think that it might be time for me to join the 21st century, and
go digital.

But to be honest, I'm totally bewildered by the myriad of choices, and the
huge expense of the cameras that look like what I might want! I was trying
to make my way through this site
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...al-SLR-Camera-
Reviews.aspx
but then thought, WHy don't I see whether tehre is a digital photo newsgroup
where I might be able to get some basic guidance.

So here I am.

WHat I want to do is get highly crisp true-color photos of natural subjects,
such as backlit grass, dragonflies, and the like, such as I've (sometimes)
been able to get using the above non-digital combination, BUT it'd be nice to
see the pic in advance, as can be done with digital cameras, and it'd be nice
to not have to pay so much for "experimental" film shots (esp since the shops
develop *everythign*, even the complete junk, since that's how they make
their money). I've been *hoping* to get a digital camera that would use my
Minolta lens and my Nikkon 55mm lens.

What I definitely do not want is an "automated" thing that takes away my
control over the photo, focuses eveythign in the center (as opposed to where
*I* want the focus to be), and other such interferences. So I've been leery
of "power shot" types or other types that sound like they are merely for
taking nice little snapshots (as opposed to decent-quality photographs).

At the same time, I cannot pay hundreds upon hundreds of dollars...so price
is a consideration

Oh yeah, I also am not concerned about it being able to take video, tho' I
wouldn't reject that ability, either


So, given all of that, could some kind soul perhaps direct this totally-
confused newbie to a good starting place to look?

Many Thanks in Advance!

Kris K.



Go with any of the excellent super-zoom P&S cameras (and ditch your old
lenses that won't even have full functionality on any of the newer
cameras). You can do all that you want with any of the super-zoom P&S
models. Full manual control and much more. You'll wonder why you've waited
so long. The convenience and adaptability of an all-in-one camera can't be
beat. No more missed shots and you'll get your live-preview of exactly what
you'll get on your final image at all times. (Not to mention high-quality
video recording too.) Don't listen to the throngs dSLR-pushing trolls. They
know not of what they speak.

Here's a good example of how an inexpensive P&S super-zoom camera beats a
new dSLR hands-down in resolution and chromatic aberration problems.

http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Ca..._results.shtml

In order to get the same image quality and zoom-reach (of the P&S camera)
from that dSLR it would cost over $6,500 in lenses and an extra 20 lbs. in
weight for the dSLR. This would include the cumbersome and heavy tripod to
be able to use the longer-focal length lenses with it. I did the math.

Since you've been shooting with ASA100 film all this time you won't even
have need for ISO's (ASAs) above 400. That's the one and only thing that
dSLRs are better at, at the great cost of their crippling smaller apertures
on all longer dSLR lenses. The larger apertures at longer zoom settings on
P&S cameras easily makes up for a dSLR's piddly higher ISO benefit.

For your macro-photography needs there is no better choice than a P&S
camera. You will finally be able to do hand-held available light macro
photography without having to use a tripod and flash to get enough
depth-of-field due to a stopped-down SLR lens. You also won't have to worry
about all your photos being ruined because you got dust on your dSLR's
sensor while out shooting and fumbling around swapping cumbersome lenses.

This is the 21st century, it's time to ditch the outmoded concepts of the
1900's. The same way we ditched the wet-plates, flash-powders, and
horse-drawn covered-wagon darkrooms before. It might take you a while to
adapt and learn to use these newer cameras effectively but in the end the
convenience and adaptability of them far outweighs what you've been doing
all along.

If you want even more control and features than any dSLR ever made, or will
ever be made, check out any of the Canon P&S models supported by the free
CHDK software add-on for them.

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page

See this camera-features chart http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CameraFeatures
for what new capabilities each model might have, beyond what was originally
provided by the manufacturer.

Some models support manual shutter speeds from 2048 seconds (and even
longer in the extended "Factor" shutter-speed mode) to a record-breaking
1/40,000th second. With 100% accurate flash sync up to the highest speed.
You're no longer limited and crippled by a focal-plane shutter's maximum
1/250th second X-Sync speed when trying to use flash to fill shadows in
harsh sunlit conditions. They also have built-in motion detection for
nature and lightning photography. Their shutter response times are fast
enough to catch a lightning strike triggered from the pre-strike
step-leader of a lightning event. One person even doing hand-held lightning
photography during daylight this way. Using short shutter speeds and the
built-in motion detection to trigger the shutter at the right time. That's
never been done before in the history of photography. No need for a tripod
and keeping the shutter open hoping for a random lightning event. Just hold
the camera in the direction of the storm, composing your shot. The camera
snaps off a frame only when there's an actual strike.

Some of the more amazing uses of CHDK cameras have been lofting them in
weather balloons into the upper atmosphere, running an internal
intervalometer script to record the whole event. A dSLR's lenses and
archaic mirror contraptions would freeze-up solid at those temperatures.
Some images taken from so high that you can see the curvature of the earth.
Kite-aerial photography is another popular use for CHDK cameras that run
internal scripts.

If still in doubt about what you can do with any of the 45+ models of CHDK
equipped P&S cameras just browse a few pages of the 9,500+ "World's Best
CHDK Photos" at this link:

http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/chdk

It'll change everything that you ever thought or knew about "power shot
type" P&S cameras.