In article , says...
In article ,
zeitgeist wrote:
Has anyone got any tips for some that's been asked to photograph
someone and produce theatrical headshots with minimal equipment ? I
use a dRebel, the 50mm 1.8 (effectivly a 90mm) and the 28-135 zoom,
but no lighting equipment. I'm not going to do the printing, I'll
send it to an internet printer.

I've been asked to shoot an acquaintance and I'd like to give ot a try
for the experince but I'm not going to give him crap. I'll send him
to someone that I know that specializes in model/acting headshots.
--


the best headshots are done with a super soft shadowless light. You can
spend a bunch for lights, or you can open the garage door, front door can
work too. If you live in apartment, then look for similar large open shade
with an overhang.

the secret to finding the sweet spot is the concept of penumbra, that area
between full light and shadow. have your subject, (or just use your hand)
and move it back away from the full opening, *just* as the light starts to
fall off.

You should see the skin glow and the eyes shine.

use the 50, wide open, but step back, you only need 3mp for a decent 8x10,
so plan on cropping, 50 is still a normal angle which is too wide for
headshots, backing up and cropping will limit distortion, keep the face
perpendicular to the camera, imagine a sheet of cardboard over the face, | -
| see what I'm saying?




My dRebel has a 1.6x multiplication factor so it's really a 90mm, but
nice and fast. IMO a real 50mm lens is too short for face shots. I'm
not sure if you mean a 50mm lens or field-of-view equal to a 50mm lens
on a 35mm frame. I can use the kit zoom at 35mm which would be about
50mm, effectivly but the DOF will be deeper and IMO the 50 prime is
better, optically.

You're right, with the 1.6x factor a 50mm is about perfect for head
shots (85mm is the typical recommendation).

What about the on-camera flash? I'll pick a spot with decent natural
light as you describe and I can pop open the flash and put something
over it as a difuser. The camera frame will be vertical so it will be
a bit of a side light. the dRebel flash is a higher than the flash is
on a P&S and redeye has not been a problem.

I'm not sure if you can rig a diffuser over the tiny built-in flash.
Still, if you're in bright open shade and portrait mode, your Rebel will
do a nice job of balancing flash with day light.

I've seen references to small flash-synced slave flashes and I
wouldn't mind picking one up but I haven't figured out how you trigger
it without getting too much flash from the on-camera flash.

Is your popup flash E-TTL? I don't know on the Rebel-D. If it is it
puts out a tiny preflash to judge exposure. That preflash will trigger
the slaves early and they won't be of any use.

If it doesn't preflash (TTL, not E-TTL), you can use the little slaves
to help out. The camera will automatically compensate for their extra
light output by quenching the on-camera flash early. Balance is tricky,
but you can use your LCD screen to judge.

I'll have my laptop with PS on it with me so we can look at shots as
we go.

I like to connect my 10D to a TV monitor while shooting. The annoying
extra cable is more than made up for by the large instant review.

Marc