In article ,
Richard Knoppow wrote:

contrast filter. Find the exposure for a good print and
divide that by the ratio of paper speed to film speed.

That would be, of course, "the exposure for a good print
of the same size as the lighted area cast by the enlarger
set to cover the contact frame" -- the exposure with the
enlarger column at the same height, basically. I'm sure
Richard knows this but I got it wrong the first time I
tried this process so I thought I should elucidate.

Otherwise you will have to find the exposure by making a
test strip, that is making several exposures about one stop
apart (each double or half the last). You really only have
to do this once to calibrate the setup.

This is what I have always found simplest.

Slow, fine grain, pictorial film works fine but most
35mm negative films have a pigment in the support which can
not be removed and makes the slides just a little darker
than the clear support on the printing film. Not a real
problem but you should be aware of it.
For projection the positive needs to be rather contrasty
compared to normal negative contrast. Most of the very slow
fine grain films are inherently contrasty and its possible
to get the necessary contrast and high shadow density with
films like T-Max 100 by processing them is somewhat high
contrast developers like Dektol.

Another option which occurs to me is to use Kodalith. Is it
still sold in 35mm roll film? For the longest time, it was,
but under a different (and strange) product name. It does not
have a pigmented base, and if developed in a very dilute
developer (HC110 dilution F works; POTA would probably work
better) will in fact give negatives of slightly higher than
standard contrast. It's also *very* slow, and can be handled
under a dim red safelight. Perhaps it is almost ideal for this
use. The disadvantage is that more work will be needed to
calibrate exposure and development since Kodak's tables won't
be helpful.

What I did last time I needed nice snappy slides from copied
small format negatives was develop normally and then intensify
with very strong selenium toner (1:3). This gives a color
change, which is not ideal, and is wasteful of the somewhat
expensive toner, but I was in a hurry and it got the job done
with the materials I had on hand, and I didn't have to recalibrate
my development system for some oddball developer like Dektol 1:10.

Chromium intensifier, if you can still get it, would probably work
better.

--
Thor Lancelot Simon
"Even experienced UNIX users occasionally enter rm *.* at the UNIX
prompt only to realize too late that they have removed the wrong
segment of the directory structure." - Microsoft WSS whitepaper