"Jim Bianchi" wrote in message
...
snip

Well I finally gave it a try after someone gave me a .pdf file
'splaining it. It was on orphancameras.com all right. (I just needed a
good
kick inna hiney to actually look for it.) Anyway, the process is smiple
and straightforward. Never really having dealt w/polaroid camera's very
much, when I opened the back and saw alla these rollers and doors, I tho't
I'd have to thread the polaroid film thru them and such. No such thing was
needed tho. The polaroidish film pack just snaps right in. All that's
needed
is care to ensure the various 'pull tabs' are not fouled or folded under.

Orphancameras.com can be a very helpful resource for older or off-beat photo
gear.

The reason for the doors, of course is to keep light out while allowing the
pull-tab to stick out, and the photo to be pulled out.

The reason for the rollers is more important: There is a "pod" of chemical
that developes the negative and transfers the image to the positive paper.
The rollers break open the pod and spread the chemical between the neg and
positive. If the image has regularly spaced spots on it, a piece of
something has stuck to a roller. If the long edges or trailing edge of the
picture is not fully developed, the rollers are not applying sufficient
pressure and the chemical is not being spread the full width/length of the
picture. Sometimes the chemical will leak out around the edges, and deposit
on the roller(s). When it dries, it causes a bump on the roller(s) that
causes the regualerly spaced spots.

The chemical reaction that developes the picture is temperature sensitive,
like many chemical reactions. In cold temperatures, a longer developing time
may be required, or you could put the picture 'sandwich' someplace warm to
develope. Early Polaroid instructions suggested putting it under your arm,
and included a metal holder for warming.