Adam wrote:
Well, this afternoon I decided to combine that with Laura's suggestion
about using period equipment. I wandered around another local college
that has many older buildings, and tried to get essentially the same
shots with my SLR (Tri-X @ ISO 400) and with an Argus C3 (Tri-X at EI
100). Unfortunately my college is closed this week (Spring Break), so I
won't be able to get into the darkroom until next week.

I'm sorry I can't remember how to remove and replace it without damaging
anything, maybe someone else can, but you can take the lens off of
the C-3 and use it as an enlarging lens. It's not as good as a lens
designed to be used for enlarging but it works and may give you more
of the results you seek.

As for using Tri-X at ASA (let's get into the terms of the period) 100,
I'm not sure it will do what you expect. You could try films that are similar
in design to period films such as Plus-X (how different is the "new" anyway?),
Ilford Pan-F (similar to the late Panatomic-X) and Adox/Orwo/Efke KB-25,
which was sold as KB-14 at one time.

KB-14 is Orthopanchromatic, so it has less red response than regular
panchromatic film. It may make a difference.

You could also try to find an orthochromatic film that works for general
subjects, I have no idea if they are still around. Most roll film cameras
in the U.S. in the 1940s used Verichrome (NOT the later Verichrome Pan)
which was orthocrhomatic. Possibly a green or blue filter will duplicate
the results on panchromatic film.

You could also try developing your film in dilute paper developer. I started
out with Kodak "Tri-Chem-Packs" which included Dektol, a stop bath and fixer.
Dektol is a paper developer, but it was in this case used for film.

Geoff.
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