ARSAT 2.8/35 tilt and shift lens
 

Will be getting a Canon 20D and will need a shifting and sometimes
tilting lens. The Canon 24 and 45mm are a bit too expensive for my
occassional use and was looking into the Arsat 35mm.

Have not been able to find any reviews on the Arsat but assume the
quality, stopped down is OK - I would be using it on a tripod so do
not need to shoot wide open.

Will it work OK with the 20D - I assume that I will have to manually
focus.

Will the 20D exposure meter work, again I assume in stop down mode, or
does it require a Canon lens to interact with the body's electronics.

If it will not work can I take a test shot and determine from the
histogram the correct exposure? or will I need to get a hand held
meter.

Would there be any other issues I should know before I get one and are
there any alternatives?

Thanks

Clive

Hi Clive,

The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.

David

Hi Clive,

The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.

David

"David R. Greenberg" wrote:

The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.


I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

;-)

"David R. Greenberg" wrote:

The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying
to prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of
distortion can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits.
Resolution is degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need
to be expanded and the borders of the image become non-rectangular,
requiring a recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an
8.2Mpixel image, you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs
quite well, as long as the corrections aren't severe.


I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

;-)

TP wrote:


I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

We would like to know if you've ever shot hyperfocal. Or anything at all.

--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

TP wrote:


I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

We would like to know if you've ever shot hyperfocal. Or anything at all.

--
-- rec.photo.equipment.35mm user resource:
-- http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.--

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:10:43 +0100, TP had this to say:

"David R. Greenberg" wrote:

The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying to
prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of distortion
can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits. Resolution is
degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need to be expanded
and the borders of the image become non-rectangular, requiring a
recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an 8.2Mpixel image,
you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs quite well, as long
as the corrections aren't severe.


I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

;-)

Ask an expert. I recommend Brain Bird. Or is that Bran Bard? Byron Brad?
Bird Brain? Um...wait...Brian Baird. That's it. Professional expert on all
things Photoshop (not that you'd ever need any profesional advice).

--
DD™
Durban, South Africa.

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 17:10:43 +0100, TP had this to say:

"David R. Greenberg" wrote:

The first thing I'd suggest investigating is whether or not you really
need a T/S lens. If your application is architecture and you're trying to
prevent vertical line convergence, be aware that this type of distortion
can be corrected easily in Photoshop, with some limits. Resolution is
degraded somewhat in those regions of the image that need to be expanded
and the borders of the image become non-rectangular, requiring a
recropping. However, since you'll be starting with an 8.2Mpixel image,
you will likely be able to tolerate these tradeoffs quite well, as long
as the corrections aren't severe.


I would like to know how you increase depth of field in Photoshop ...

;-)

Ask an expert. I recommend Brain Bird. Or is that Bran Bard? Byron Brad?
Bird Brain? Um...wait...Brian Baird. That's it. Professional expert on all
things Photoshop (not that you'd ever need any profesional advice).

--
DD™
Durban, South Africa.

"clive" wrote in message
om...
Will be getting a Canon 20D and will need a shifting and sometimes
tilting lens. The Canon 24 and 45mm are a bit too expensive for my
occassional use and was looking into the Arsat 35mm.

Have not been able to find any reviews on the Arsat but assume the
quality, stopped down is OK - I would be using it on a tripod so do
not need to shoot wide open.

Will it work OK with the 20D - I assume that I will have to manually
focus.

Will the 20D exposure meter work, again I assume in stop down mode, or
does it require a Canon lens to interact with the body's electronics.

If it will not work can I take a test shot and determine from the
histogram the correct exposure? or will I need to get a hand held
meter.

Would there be any other issues I should know before I get one and are
there any alternatives?

Thanks

Clive

Here's a review of the Arsat lens by Shutterbug Magazine:
http://www.shutterbug.net/features/0801sb_thewide/ If there are any
alternatives they are listed he
http://www.ohse.de/uwe/articles/shift-tilt.html