Problem with pushed Neopans
 

Hi,

I hope you can help me.
I pushed a Neopan 1600 up to 4800 (yeah, I know, could not do anything
else), and find nothing for that on Fuji documentation.
On Digital Truth, I find

Ilfotec DD, 8 minutes at 24° (6400 ISO)
Xtol 1+1 , +/- 9 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+2, +/- 12 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+3, +/- 15,5 minutes at 20°

What should I choose to keep the maximum definition.

Second problem : I had to push some Accros 100 up to 400 ISO, and there I
find absolutely no data (and yeah, I know, could not do anything else)

Do you have any idea, recommendation ?

On top of that, I had only one film of each, so no test, just process and
pray...

Thanks for your help

--
Marie-Aude

www.oasisdemezgarne.com

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

Reading between the lines I assume that these are pretty important pictures.
What I would do first is buy another roll of each film to shoot a test.
Duplicate the original shot as closely as possible, lighting, contrast, etc.
Shoot a whole roll of a representative exposure on each film and then
process clip tests until you find a suitable time. I'd use a high energy
developer like Ilford Microphen and try double their "normal" time.
Unfortunately all the 3200, 1600 and 1000 ISO films' ISO ratings are rather
over-inflated to begin with. Example: TMax 3200 is really closer to EI
1000.

Extended development will get you close but expect higher than normal fog
levels as well.

I wish you luck.

--
darkroommike

----------
"Marie-Aude" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I hope you can help me.
I pushed a Neopan 1600 up to 4800 (yeah, I know, could not do anything
else), and find nothing for that on Fuji documentation.
On Digital Truth, I find

Ilfotec DD, 8 minutes at 24° (6400 ISO)
Xtol 1+1 , +/- 9 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+2, +/- 12 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+3, +/- 15,5 minutes at 20°

What should I choose to keep the maximum definition.

Second problem : I had to push some Accros 100 up to 400 ISO, and there I
find absolutely no data (and yeah, I know, could not do anything else)

Do you have any idea, recommendation ?

On top of that, I had only one film of each, so no test, just process and
pray...

Thanks for your help

--
Marie-Aude

www.oasisdemezgarne.com

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

Mike King wrote:
Reading between the lines I assume that these are pretty important pictures.

:-) You're right.

What I would do first is buy another roll of each film to shoot a test.

I'll do this week end.

I'd use a high energy
developer like Ilford Microphen and try double their "normal" time.
Unfortunately all the 3200, 1600 and 1000 ISO films' ISO ratings are rather
over-inflated to begin with. Example: TMax 3200 is really closer to EI
1000.

Thanks for the tip.

I wish you luck.

:-) I'll announce the results

--
Marie-Aude

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

"Marie-Aude" wrote in message ...
Hi,

I hope you can help me.
I pushed a Neopan 1600 up to 4800 (yeah, I know, could not do anything
else), and find nothing for that on Fuji documentation.
On Digital Truth, I find

Ilfotec DD, 8 minutes at 24° (6400 ISO)
Xtol 1+1 , +/- 9 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+2, +/- 12 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+3, +/- 15,5 minutes at 20°

What should I choose to keep the maximum definition.

Second problem : I had to push some Accros 100 up to 400 ISO, and there I
find absolutely no data (and yeah, I know, could not do anything else)

Do you have any idea, recommendation ?

On top of that, I had only one film of each, so no test, just process and
pray...

Thanks for your help



You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and developer.

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

"Michael Scarpitti" wrote

You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and
developer.

ya, na... well that was that or no photo at all. :-)
Maybe at the end it will be no photo at all anyway, I prefer to try
--
Marie-Aude

www.oasisdemezgarne.com

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

In article ,
(Michael Scarpitti) wrote:

You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and developer.

Like your post, a waste. Define push!!! From null exposure? From a
highlight value ? From a midtone metering ?

Pushing works if one does it correctly.

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

Technically correct but no help at all. This is a salvage job. Extended
development will not increase shadow detail which would boost true film
speed but people push film all the time to salvage otherwise irretrievable
images by boosting highlight contrast and average film density.

--
darkroommike

----------
"Michael Scarpitti" wrote in message
om...
"Marie-Aude" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I hope you can help me.
I pushed a Neopan 1600 up to 4800 (yeah, I know, could not do anything
else), and find nothing for that on Fuji documentation.
On Digital Truth, I find

Ilfotec DD, 8 minutes at 24° (6400 ISO)
Xtol 1+1 , +/- 9 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+2, +/- 12 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+3, +/- 15,5 minutes at 20°

What should I choose to keep the maximum definition.

Second problem : I had to push some Accros 100 up to 400 ISO, and there
I
find absolutely no data (and yeah, I know, could not do anything else)

Do you have any idea, recommendation ?

On top of that, I had only one film of each, so no test, just process
and
pray...

Thanks for your help



You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and
developer.

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

Be shure to have not only more fog (not impossible to overcome, just longer
exposure times for the print), but significant loss of shadow detail and
very contrasty and grainy negatives too.
In fact: if you find shadow detail of any importance, pushing is a bit of a
misunderstanding; the central issue of elongating dev. time is that it
expands film contrast, with a little speed increase as a 'side effect'.

Anyway, Marie-Aude, I would suggest the same as previous poster does: test
with duplicate but unimportant circumstances, cross your fingers and...
good luck!
Let us know how it worked for you!
Jan


"Mike King" schreef in bericht
...
Reading between the lines I assume that these are pretty important
pictures.
What I would do first is buy another roll of each film to shoot a test.
Duplicate the original shot as closely as possible, lighting, contrast,
etc.
Shoot a whole roll of a representative exposure on each film and then
process clip tests until you find a suitable time. I'd use a high energy
developer like Ilford Microphen and try double their "normal" time.
Unfortunately all the 3200, 1600 and 1000 ISO films' ISO ratings are
rather
over-inflated to begin with. Example: TMax 3200 is really closer to EI
1000.

Extended development will get you close but expect higher than normal fog
levels as well.

I wish you luck.

--
darkroommike

----------
"Marie-Aude" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I hope you can help me.
I pushed a Neopan 1600 up to 4800 (yeah, I know, could not do anything
else), and find nothing for that on Fuji documentation.
On Digital Truth, I find

Ilfotec DD, 8 minutes at 24° (6400 ISO)
Xtol 1+1 , +/- 9 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+2, +/- 12 minutes at 20°
Xtol 1+3, +/- 15,5 minutes at 20°

What should I choose to keep the maximum definition.

Second problem : I had to push some Accros 100 up to 400 ISO, and there
I
find absolutely no data (and yeah, I know, could not do anything else)

Do you have any idea, recommendation ?

On top of that, I had only one film of each, so no test, just process
and
pray...

Thanks for your help

--
Marie-Aude

www.oasisdemezgarne.com

Problem with pushed Neopans
 

"Marie-Aude" wrote in message ...
"Michael Scarpitti" wrote

You can 'push' film, but it does no good. It's a waste of time and
developer.

ya, na... well that was that or no photo at all. :-)
Maybe at the end it will be no photo at all anyway, I prefer to try

Shadows hardly gain at all, just the heavier densities. It is a waste of time.